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STARK’S 

ILLUSTRATED 


BERMUDA  GUID 


H 


CONTAINING 


A DESCRIPTION  OF  EVERYTHING  ON  OR  ABOUT  THE  BERMUDA 
ISLANDS  CONCERNING  WHICH  THE  VISITOR  OR 
RESIDENT  MAY  DESIRE  INFORMATION, 

INCLUDING  ITS 


History,  Inhabitants,  Climate,  Agriculture,  Geology, 
Government,  Military  and  Naval 
Establishments. 


FULLY  ILL  US  TRA  TED 

WITH  MAPS,  ENGRAVINGS,  AND  SIXTEEN  PHOTO-PRINTS. 


BY 

JAMES  H.  STARK. 


BOSTON : 

Photo-Electrotype  Co.,  Publishers. 
Bermuda:  S.  NELMES. 


2 


Copyright,  1890. 

BY  JAMES  II.  STARS, 


Published,  Illustrated  and  Printed  Br  the 
Photo-Electrotype  Co.,  Boston 


TRANSFERRED  FROM  THE 
DEPARTMENT  OF  PHOTOGRAPHS 


PREFACE. 


In  presenting  this  Guide  Book  to  the  public  the 
compiler  has  been  actuated  by  the  desire  of  intro- 
ducing to  the  notice  of  those  unacquainted  with  the 
Bermuda  Islands,  some  of  the  many  attractions  to  be 
found  there,  how  to  reach  the  islands,  their  resources 
and  productions ; the  best  houses  of  entertainment 
for  those  seeking  a quiet,  winter  home ; a brief 
history  of  the  discovery  and  settlement  of  the  is- 
lands ; the  manners  and  customs  of  the  inhabitants ; 
and  a complete  index  and  guide  to  all  points  of 
interest  in  Bermuda. 

Every  work  that  it  was  possible  to  obtain  on  this 
subject  has  been  consulted,  and  the  information  con- 
tained therein  embodied  in  this  work,  much  of  the 
matter  is  compiled  from  such  authorities  as  Smith’s 
“ General  Historie  of  Virginia,  New  England  and 
the  Summer  lies  “Memorials  of  the  Discovery  and 
Early  Settlement  of  the  Bermudas,”  by  Sir  J.  H. 
Lefroy;  “Bermuda,  Past  and  Present,”  by  John 
Ogilvy ; “The  Visitor’s  Guide  to  Bermuda,”  by  J. 
Matthew  Jones;  “The  Bermuda  Almanack,”  and 
many  other  works  too  numerous  to  mention. 

The  photographs  were  taken  by  the  author  on 
gelatine  dry  plates,  during  the  month  of  January 
and  February,  1884.  The  prints  from  the  negatives 
were  made  by  the  Photo-Electrotype  Co.,  of  Boston, 
by  their  process  of  photo-mechanical  printing. 

2 


Vi 


PREFACE, 


This  work  is  not  intended  as  a history,  although 
it  contains  several  valuable  articles  that  will  be  found 
of  great  historical  interest  and  value. 

The  author  was  led  to  publish  this  work,  after  his 
return  from  a brief  visit  to  Bermuda,  during  the 
winter  season,  and  although  he  had  seen  many 
lovely  spots  in  his  travels,  yet  the  glorious  beauty 
of  these  islands  was  a revelation  to  him.  The  many 
hills  clothed  in  perpetual  verdure,  set  in  a trans- 
parent sea,  the  great  profusion  of  flowers,  and,  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  one  stretch  of  unbroken 
bloom  and  verdure  were  unsurpassed.  Here  rose  the 
tall  shaft  of  a stately  palm,  there  the  spreading  fans 
of  the  palmetto,  and  the  slender  spires  of  the  sway- 
ing bamboo,  with  many  other  tropical  trees  and 
shrubs.  Now  you  drive  over  a hard  smooth  road, 
winding  through  the  most  picturesque  scenery,  and 
every  new  view  that  bursts  upon  you  is  a surprise. 
It  is  needless  to  say  more,  only  that  the  writer  hopes 
to  visit  Bermuda  again,  the  quiet  restful  life,  the 
wondrous  beauty  of  a land  so  different  to  the  one  we 
northerners  inhabit,  all  make  such  a welcome 
change  from  our  busy  life  at  home. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


St.  George’s  Market  Place, 

Map  showing  location  of  Bermuda, 
Front  Street,  . . . 

United  States  Consulate, 

Cedar  Avenue,  ..... 
Portrait  of  Sir  George  Somers, 

Screw  Palm,  St.  George’s  Park,  . 

Two  Natives,  ..... 

Hog  Money,  ..... 

Ancient  Map  and  Views  of  Bermuda, 

Date  Palm,  . ' 

Paw  Paw  Tree,  ..... 
American  Consul’s  Residence, 
Governor’s  Residence,  Mount  Langton, 
Ruins  of  Trinity  Church, 

The  Great  Floating  Dock,  . 

Bermuda  Coral  Reefs, 

Chimney  of  House  Buried  in  Sand, 
North  Rock, 


Frontispiece. 


27 

31 

32 

35 


51 

59 

65 

69 


/A 

79 

85 

87 

88 


Coral  Stone  Quarry, 

Entrance  to  Convolvulus  Cave, 

India  Rubber  Tree 

Hamilton,  ..... 

Gru  Gru  Palms,  Mount  Langton, 

V’aw  Paw  Trees,  Clarence  Hill,  . 
Pembroke  Church, 

Ducking  Stool,  .... 
Cocoanut  Palms, 

Flatt’s  Bridge,  .... 

The  Devil’s  Hole, 

Shore  View,  .... 
West  View  from  St.  George’s  Hill, 

St.  George’s  and  Ordinance  Island, 
Mangroves,  .... 

Spanish  Rock  Inscription,  . 

Natural  Swamp  Vegetation, 
Devonshire  Church,  . . 

Royal  Palms,  .... 
Bermuda  Yacht  Undine, 

Yacht  Race  Rounding  the  Stake  Boat, 
Map  of  Bermuda,  . . . . 


89 

91 

94 

95 
99 

lOI 

101 

104 

105 

III 

114 

it7 

121 

125 

133 

133 

137 

139 

141 


2 


Stark’s  Illustrated 

BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION. 

The  singular  collection  of  islands  known  as  Ber- 
muda or  the  Bermudas,  are  situated  about  seven 
hundred  miles  from  New  York  in  a southeast  direc- 
tion, and  about  the  same  distance  from  Florida,  or 
from  Bermuda  to  Cape  Hatteras  — the  nearest 
land — the  distance  is  625  miles. 

Within  sixty-five  hours’  sail  from  New  York  it  is 
hardly  possible  to  find  so  complete  a change  in  gov- 
ernment, climate,  scenery  and  vegetation,  as  Ber- 
muda offers,  and  yet  these  islands  are  strangely 
unfamiliar  to  most  well-informed  Americans. 

Speaking  our  own  language,  having  the  same 
origin,  with  manners,  which  in  many  ways  illus- 
trate those  prevalent  in  New  England  a century 
ago,  the  people  are  bound  to  us  by  many  natural 
ties,  and  it  is  only  now  that  these  islands,  having 
come  to  the  front  as  a winter  resort,  have  led  us 
to  inquire  into  their  history  and  resources.  Settled 
in  1612,  Virginia  only  of  the  English  colonies 


10 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


outdatingit,  life  in  Bermuda  has  been  as  placid  as 
its  lovely  waters  on  a summer  day  ; no  agitation  of 
sufficient  occurrence  having  occurred  to  attract  the 
attention  of  the  outside  world,  from  which  it  is  so 
absolutely  isolated.  Having  for  some  years  desir- 
ed to  visit  Bermuda,  and  deeming  this  a fitting  op- 
portunity, we  consulted  the  various  routes  leading 
there,  which  will  be  inserted  for  the  benefit  of 
our  readers. 

The  Quebec  Steamship  Company,  under  contract 
with  the  Bermuda  government,  dispatch  the  new 
steamers  Trinidad  and  Orinoco,  from  New  York 
every  Thursday  from  January  to  June,  and  every 
alternate  Thursday  thereafter.  Fare  for  the  round 
trip,  including  state  rooms,  $50.00. 

The  agents  of  the  Company  are  A.  E. 
Outerbridge,  39  Broadway,  New  York;  Trott  & 
Cox,  Front  Street,  Hamilton,  Bermuda.  General 
office  of  the  Company,  Quebec,  Canada. 

The  officers  and  men  connected  with  this 
Company  are  kind  and  courteous,  and  passengers 
can  depend  on  receiving  the  very  best  of  attention, 
and  although  the  steamers  are  not  equal  in  size  to 
some  of  those  plying  between  the  United  States  and 
Europe,  yet  every  comfort  and  accommodation  are 
afforded  that  passengers  can  desire.  In  addition 
to  these  vessels,  there  are  occasionally  direct 
steamers  and  sailing  ships  to  London  and  other 
ports,  and  by  these  goods  from  England  are  usually 
and  conveniently  dispatched. 


12 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


The  Cunard  Co.,  have  a monthly  service  be- 
tween Halifax,  Bermuda,  Turks  Island  and  Ja- 
maica. There  is  also  a monthly  line  between  St. 
John,  N.  B.,  Bermuda  and  the  West  Indies. 

A submarine  telegraph  connects  Bermuda  with 
Halifax  and  other  connecting  points. 

We  decided  to  go  on  the  Orinoco,  and  it  certainly 
was  a striking  change  in  the  scenes  that  our  voyage 
of  sixty-five  hours  brought  to  us.  When  we  left 
New  York  at  3 P.  M.  on  a Thursday,  the  ground 
white  with  snow  and  a raw  northeast  wind  blowing, 
and  on  Sunday  morning  at  sunrise  we  were  floating 
on  a glassy,  tropic  sea  close  to  the  islands.  The 
negro  pilot  comes  out  and  scrambles  up  on  deck 
and  we  thread  our  way  through  the  narrow  passage 
between  the  coral  reefs,  skirting  the  whole  length 
of  the  islands,  to  the  opening  into  Hamilton  harbor. 
The  delight  of  reaching  land  is  intensified  by  the 
beauties  which  are  spread  out  on  every  hand.  The 
wonderful  transparency  of  the  water,  the  numerous 
islands,  making  new  pictures  at  every  turn,  the 
shifting  lighten  the  hills,  the  flowers,  which  almost 
hide  the  houses  that  peep  out  here  and  there  from 
their  bowers,  make  up  a scene  as  rare  as  it  is  beau- 
tiful. The  scenery  presented  was  a strange  combi- 
nation (5f  tropic  and  northern  aspects,  dense  woods 
of  cedar  cover  all  the  islands,  and  at  times  one 
would  be  willing  to  stake  their  life  they  were  sail- 
ing by  the  shores  of  Cape  Ann  or  were  in  Casco 
Bay  or  at  Mt.  Desert,  but  the  white  gleam  of  the 
Spanish  looking  houses,  the  waving  plumes  of  a 


Front  Street. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


15 


palm  here  and  there,  and  the  transparent  color  of 
the  water  beneath  would  contradict  the  statement 
at  every  turn.  Tropic,  indeed,  in  one  sense,  these 
islands  are.  No  frost  ever  visits  them.  The 
palm,  banana,  orange,  lemon,  paw-paw,  India 
rubber  tree,  with  a profusion  of  flowers  and  vines, 


U.  S.  CONSULATE,  FRONT  STREET. 


only  seen  in  our  northern  greenhouses,  flourish 
here.  And  so,  making  our  way  slowly  through  the 
labyrinth  of  islands,  a sudden  turn  brings  us  into 
the  pretty,  land-locked  harbor  of  Hamilton,  which 
is  the  capital  and  principal  town  of  Bermuda. 

The  arrival  of  the  steamer  has  been  heralded  by 
the  customary  signals — a flag  from  the  Government 
house  at  Mt.  Langton.  The  news  has  been  tele- 
graphed all  over  the  island,  and  the  crowd  ofpeople 
on  the  wharf  indicates  the  interest  attached  to  the 


16 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


arrival  of  the  steamer.  The  majority  of  the  people 
collected  there  are  colored,  with  a sprinkling  of 
men  well-to-do  and  English  in  appearance,  while 
the  presence  of  the  British  soldier  suggests  the  fact 
that  this  is  one  of  England’s  strongholds. 

The  steamer  comes  to  just  opposite  Front  street, 
which  is  the  principal  business  street  of  the  town. 
Along,  shed-like  structure,  built  of  corrugated  iron, 
stretches  along  the  wharf,  affording  a comfortable 
shelter  for  men,  boys  and  freight.  The  street  is 
bordered  by  Pride-of-India  trees,  affording  an 
agreeable  shade  on  one  side,  while  stores  with  ver- 
andas in  front,  unpretending  in  appearance,  border 
the  other  side.  The  streets  are  hard,  smooth,  and 
white,  made  of  the  coral  rock  which  abounds  every- 
where and  of  which  the  islands  are  composed. 

There  are  several  good  hotels  in  the  town,  the 
best  are  the  Hamilton  and  Princess  ; they  are  equal 
to  the  average  first-class  summer  hotels  found  in 
the  States. 

The  Hamilton  was  open  in  1852,  and  is  the  prop- 
erty of  the  Corporation  of  the  town  of  Hamilton. 
It  is  held  under  a thirty  years’  lease  by  the  mana- 
ger, Walter  Aiken  of  New  Hampshire,  the  propri- 
etor of  the  Tip  Top  House,  Mt.  Washington. 

The  hotel  is  situated  on  a high  hill  overlooking 
the  town  and  commanding  a view  of  the  harbor  and 
surrounding  country.  Long  verandas  stretch  across 
the  front  from  which  one  obtains  delightful  views  of 
the  hills  beyond,  clothed  with  cedar  and  dotted 
with  white  houses. 


Cedar  Avenue. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


19 


The  Princess  was  built  in  1884,  entirely  of 
wood,  and  is  the  only  wooden  building  of  any  size 
on  the  islands.  It  is  situated  on  the  shore  of  Ham- 
ilton Harbor,  and  has  over  400  feet  of  broad  piazza 
overlooking  the  harbor  and  surrounding  country. 
Mr.  N.  S.  Howe,  of  the  Madison  Hotel,  N.  Y.,  is 
the  proprietor. 

There  are  several  other  good  hotels  in  town  that 
are  not  so  expensive  as  the  Hamilton  or  Princess, 
such  as  the  American  House  at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
on  which  the  Hamilton  House  stands.  Mr.  A. 
Paschal,  proprietor.  Also  the  Windsor  Hotel,  re- 
cently opened  and  pleasantly  located  between  the 
Hamilton  and  the  steamship  landing.  Mr.  W. 
Bradley,  proprietor. 

The  Atlantic  House  on  Front  St.,  is  very  cen- 
trally located,  overlooking  the  harbor,  of  which  a 
very  fine  view  can  be  obtained.  Michael  Kistner, 
proprietor. 

The  St.  George  Hotel  is  the  principal  hotel  in 
the  town  of  St.  George.  Parties  visiting  there 
from  Hamilton  can,  by  telephoning  in  advance, 
alwa3^s  be  sure  of  securing  a first-class  dinner. 
F.  G.  Virtue,  proprietor. 

There  are  a number  of  private  boarding  houses 
in  Hamilton,  one  of  the  best  is  the  Victoria  Lodge, 
in  the  rear  of  the  Hamilton  House,  fronting  Vic- 
toria Park.  Mrs.  J.  F.  Smith,  proprietress.  Al- 
though not  so  pretentious  a place  as  the  hotels, 
yet  it  is  far  more  quiet  and  homelike. 


2 


20 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


The  rates  at  the  hotels  are  about  the  same  as 
similar  accommodation  would  cost  in  the  States. 
From  $3  to  $4  per  day  in  the  larger  hotels,  and 
from  $2  to  $2.50  in  the  smaller  ones,  and  lesser 
rates,  if  by  the  week  or  the  season. 


HISTORY. 

The  Bermudas  were  first  discovered  in  1515  by  a 
Spanish  vessel,  called  La  Garza,  on  a voyage  from 
Spain  to  Cuba,  with  a cargo  of  hogs,  and  com- 
manded by  Juan  Bermudez,  and  having  on  board 
Gonzalez  Oviedo,  the  historian  of  the  Indies,  to 
whom  we  are  indebted  for  the  first  account  of  these 
islands.  They  approached  near  to  the  islands  and 
from  the  appearance  of  the  place  concluded  that  it 
was  uninhabited.  They  resolved  to  send  a boat 
ashore  to  make  observations,  and  leave  a few  hogs 
which  mightbreed  and  be  afterwards  useful.  When, 
however,  they  were  preparing  to  debark  a strong 
contrary  gale  arose  which  obliged  them  to  sheer  off 
and  be  content  with  the  view  already  obtained.  The 
islands  were  named  by  the  Spaniards  indifferently. 
La  Garza  from  the  ship  and  Bermuda  from  the  cap- 
tain, but  the  former  term  is  long  since  disused. 

It  does  not  appear  that  the  Spaniards  made  any 
attempt  to  settle  there,  although  Philip  II.  granted 
the  islands  to  one  Ferdinand  Camelo,  a Portuguese, 
who  neverimproved  his  gift,  beyond  taking  posses- 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


21 


sion  by  the  form  of  landing  in  1543,  and  carving  on 
a prominent  cliff  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  island 
the  initials  of  his  name  and  the  year,  to  which,  in 
conformity  with  the  practical  zeal  of  the  times,  he 
superadded  a cross,  to  protect  his  acquisition  from 
the  encroachments  of  roving  heretics  and  the  devil, 
for  the  stormy  seas  and  dangerous  reefs  gave  rise 
to  so  many  disasters  as  to  render  the  group  exceed- 
ingly formidable  in  the  eyes  of  the  most  experienced 
navigators.  It  was  even  invested  in  their  imagina- 
tion with  superstitious  terrors,  being  considered  as 
unapproachable  by  man,  and  given  up  in  full  domin- 
ion to  the  spirits  of  darkness.  The  Spaniards  there- 
fore called  them  “Los  Diabolos,”the  Devil’s  Islands. 

These  islands  were  first  introduced  to  the  notice  of 
the  English  by  a dreadful  shipwreck.  In  1591  Henry 
May  sailed  to  the  East  Indies  along  with  Captain 
Lancaster,  on  a buccaneering  expedition.  Having 
reached  the  coast  of  Sumatra  and  Malacca,  they 
scoured  the  adjacent  seas,  and  made  some  valuable 
captures.  In  1593  they  again  doubled  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  and  returned  to  the  West  Indies  for  sup- 
plies which  they  much  needed.  They  first  came  in 
sight  of  Trinidad  but  did  not  dare  to  approach  a coast 
which  was  in  possession  of  the  Spaniards,  and  their 
distress  became  so  great  that  it  was  with  the  utmost 
difficulty  that  the  men  could  be  prevented  from  leav- 
ing the  ship.  They  shortly  afterwards  fell  in  with 
a French  buccaneer  commanded  by  La  Barbotiere, 
who  kindly  relieved  their  wants  by  a gift  of  bread 
and  provisions.  Their  stores  were  soon  again 

2 


22 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


exhausted,  and,  coming  across  the  French  ship  the 
second  time,  application  was  made  to  the  French 
captain  for  more  supplies,  but  he  declared  that  his 
own  stock  was  so  much  reduced  that  he  could  spare 
but  little,  but  the  sailors  persuaded  themselves  that 
the  Frenchman’s  scarcity  was  feigned,  and  also 
that  May,  who  conducted  the  negotiations,  was  re- 
gailing  himself  with  good  cheer  on  board  without 
any  trouble  about  their  distress.  Among  these  men, 
inured  to  bold  and  desperate  deeds,  a company  was 
formed  to  seize  the  French  pinnace,  and  then  to  cap- 
ture the  large  vessel  with  its  aid.  They  succeeded 
in  their  first  object,  but  the  French  captain,  who  ob- 
served their  actions,  sailed  away  at  full  speed,  and 
May,  who  was  dining  with  him  on  board  at  the  time, 
requested  that  he  might  stay  and  return  home  on 
the  vessel,  so  that  he  could  inform  his  employers  of 
the  events  of  the  voyage,  and  the  unruly  behavior 
of  the  crew.  As  they  approached  Bermuda,  strict 
watch  was  kept  while  they  supposed  themselves  to 
be  near  that  dreaded  spot,  but  when  the  pilot  de- 
clared that  they  were  twelve  leagues  south  of  it, 
they  threw  aside  all  care  and  gave  themselves  up  to 
carousing.  Amid  their  jollity,  about  midnight,  the 
ship  struck,  with  such  violence  that  she  immedi- 
ately filled^and  sank.  They  had  only  a small  boat, 
to  which  they  attached  a hastily  constructed  raft  to 
be  towed  along  with  it,  room,  however,  was  made  for 
only  twenty  six  while  the  crew  exceeded  fifty.  In 
the  wild  and  desperate  struggle  for  existence  that 
ensued,  May  fortunately  got  into  the  boat.  They  had 


Hamilton  Hotel. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


23 


to  beat  about  nearly  all  the  next  day,  dragging  the 
raft  after  them,  and  it  was  almost  dark  before  they 
reached  the  shore  ; they  were  tormented  with  thirst, 
and  had  nearly  despaired  of  finding  a drop  of  water 
when  some  was  discovered  in  a rock  where  the  rain 
waters  had  collected. 

The  land  was  covered  with  one  unbroken  forest 
of  cedar,  here  they  would  have  to  remain  for  life 
unless  a vessel  could  be  constructed.  They  made  a 
voyage  to  the  wreck  and  secured  the  shrouds,  tack- 
les and  carpenters’  tools,  and  then  began  to  cut 
down  the  cedars,  with  which  they  constructed  a 
vessel  of  eighteen  tons,  for  pitch  they  took  lime, 
rendered  adhesive  by  a mixture  of  turtle  oil,  and 
forced  it  into  the  seams,  where  it  became  hard  as 
stone. 

During  a residence  of  five  months  here  May  had 
observed  that  Bermuda,  hitherto  supposed  to  be  a sin- 
gle island,  was  broken  up  into  a number  of  islands  of 
different  sizes,  enclosing  many  fine  bays,  and  forming 
good  harbors.  The  vessel  being  finished  they  set  sail 
for  Newfoundland,  expecting  to  meet  fishing  vessels 
there,  on  which  they  could  obtain  passage  to  Europe. 
On  the  nth  of  May  they  found  themselves  with  joy 
clear  of  the  islands  ; they  had  a very  favorable  voy- 
age,^and  on  the  20th  arrived  at  Cape  Breton.  May 
arrived  in  England  in  August,  1594,  where  he  gave 
a description  of  the  islands;  he  stated  that  they 
found  hogs  running  wild  all  over  the  islands,  which 
proves  that  this  was  not  the  first  landing  made 
there.  ^ 


24 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


It  was  owing  to  a shipwreck  that  Bermuda  again 
came  under  the  view  of  the  English,  and  that  led 
England  to  appropriate  these  islands. 

In  1609,  during  the  most  active  period  of  the 
colonization  of  Virginia,  an  expedition  of  nine  ships, 
commanded  by  Sir  Thomas  Gates,  Sir  George 
Somers  and  Captain  Newport,  bound  for  Virginia, 
was  dispersed  by  a great  storm.  One  of  the  ves- 
sels, the  Sea  Adventure,  in  which  was  Gates,  Somers 
and  Newport,  seems  to  have  been  involved  in  the 
thickest  of  the  tempest.  The  vessel  sprung  a leak, 
which  it  was  found  impossible  to  stop.  All  hands 
labored  at  the  pumps  for  life,  even  the  governor  and 
admiral  took  their  turns,  and  gentlemen  who  had 
never  had  an  hour’s  hard  work  in  their  life  toiled  with 
the  rest.  The  water  continued  to  gain  on  them,  and 
'when  about  to  give  up  in  despair,  * Sir  George  Som- 
ers, who  had  been  watching  at  the  poop  day  and 
night,  cried  out  land,  and  there  in  the  early  dawn 
of  morning  could  be  seen  the  welcome  sight  of 
land.  Fortunately  they  lighted  on  the  only  secure 
entrance  through  the  reefs,  the  vessel  was  run 
ashore  and  wedged  between  two  rocks,  and  thereby  , 
was  preserved  from  sinking  till  by  means  of  a boat 
and  skiff  the  whole  crew  of  one  hundred  and  fifty, 
provisions,  tackle  and  stores,  reached  the  land.  At 
that  time  the  hogs  still  abounded,  and  these,  with 

* The  portrait  of  Admiral  Sir  George  Somers  is  from  a copy 
obtained  by  General  SirJ.  H.  Lefroy,  (late  Governor  of  Bermuda), 
from  Miss  Bellamy,  of  Plymouth,  who  inherited  the  original  from 
her  ancestor,  Dr.  Bellamy,  M.  D.,  who  was  connected  with  the 
Somers  family. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


25 


SIR  GEORGE  SOMERS. 


26 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  turtle,  birds  and  fish  which  they  caught,  afford- 
ed excellent  food  for  the  castaways.  The  Isle 
of  Devils,  Sir  George  Somers  and  party  found 
“the  richest,  healthfulest  and  pleasantest”  they 
ever  saw. 

Robert  Walsingham  and  Henry  Shelly  discov- 
ered two  bays  abounding  in  excellent  fish:  these 
bays  are  still  called  by  their  names.  Gates  and 
Somers  caused  the  long  boat  to  be  decked  over  and 
sent  Raven,  the  mate,  with  eight  men,  to  Virginia  to 
bring  assistance  to  them,  but  nothing  was  ever  heard 
of  them  afterwards,  and  after  waiting  six  months  all 
hopes  were  then  given  up.  The  chiefs  of  the  expe- 
dition then  determined  to  build  two  vessels  of  cedar, 
one  of  eighty  tons  and  one  of  thirty.  Their  utmost 
exertions,  however,  did  not  prevent  disturbances, 
which  nearly  baffled  the  enterprise,  these  were 
fomented  by  persons  noted  for  their  religious  zeal, 
of  puritan  principles  and  the  accompanying  spirit 
of  independence.  They  represented  that  the  recent 
disaster  had  dissolved  the  authority  of  the  governor, 
and  their  business  was  now  to  provide,  as  they  best 
could,  for  themselves  and  their  families.  They  had 
come  out  in  search  of  an  easy  and  plentiful  subsis- 
tance,  which  could  no  where  be  found  in  greater 
perfection  and  security  than  here,  while  in  Virginia 
its  attainment  was  not  only  doubtful,  but  attended 
with  many  hardships.  These  arguments  were  so 
convincing  with  the  larger  number  of  the  men  that, 
had  it  rested  with  them,  they  would  have  lived  and 
died  on  the  islands. 


Screw  Pai>m,  Sr.  Gt^:or(jk's  Park. 


':\V:  ' 


'.t'  ■ '■  'V' 


■ '.y: 

■ 

, j'?. 


^?J4 


: 


-«f  'w  ij;,,  - 


• ■.■/,  . y ■.••-•»'  ■'-  > ■ yj  '^K  ’^  ’" 

• •- " V" -.lx**  •'  . ■ .‘■■^  ■ ■"•  '••' 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


27 


Two  successive  conspiracies  were  formed  by 
large  parties  to  separate  from  die  rest,  and  form  a 
colony.  Both  were  defeated  by  the  vigilance  of 
Gates,  who  allowed  the  ringleaders  to  escape  with 
a slight  punishment.  This  lenity  only  emboldened 
the  malcontents  and  a third  plot  was  formed  to 
seize  the  stores  and  take  entire  possession  of  the 
islands.  It  was  determined  to  make  an  example 
of  one  of  the  leaders  named  Payne  ; he  was  con- 
demned to  be  hanged,  but,  on  the  plea  of  being  a 
gentleman,  his  sentence  was  commuted  into  that  of 
being  shot,  which  was  immediately  done.  This  had 
a salutary  effect,  and  prevented  any  further  trouble. 

Two  children,  a boy  and  girl,  were  born  during 
this  period,  the  former  was  christened  Bermudas 
and  the  latter  Bermuda,  they  were  probably  the 
first  human  beings  born  on  these  islands. 

Before  leaving  the  islands.  Gates  caused  a cross 
to  be  made  of  the  wood  saved  from  the  wreck  of 
his  ship,  which  he  secured  to  a large  cedar,  a silver 
coin  with  the  king’s  head  was  placed  in  the  middle 
of  it,  together  with  an  inscription  on  a copper  plate 
describing  what  had  happened. — That  the  cross 
was  the  remains  of  a ship  of  300  tons,  called  the 
Sea  Venture,  bound  with  eight  more  to  Virginia; 
that  she  contained  two  knights.  Sir  Thomas  Gates, 
governor  of  the  colony  and  Sir  George  Summers, 
admiral  of  the  seas,  who,  together  with  her  captain, 
Christopher  Newport,  and  150  mariners  and  pas- 
sengers besides,  had  got  safe  ashore,  when  she  was 
lost  28  July,  1609. 


28 


5 TARK’S  ILL  US  TEA  TED 


On  the  loth  of  May,  i6io,  they  sailed  with  a 
fair  wind,  and,  before  reaching  the  open  sea,  they 
struck  on  a rock  and  were  nearly  wrecked  the 
second  time.  On  the  23d  they  arrived  safely  at 
Jamestown.  This  settlement  they  found  in  a most 
destitute  condition  on  their  arrival,  and  it  was  de- 
termined to  abandon  the  place,  but  Sir  George 
Somers  “ whose  noble  mind  ever  regarded  the  gen- 
eral good  more  than  his  own  ends,”  offered  to  un- 
dertake a voyage  to  the  Bermudas  for  the  purpose 
of  forming  a settlement,  from  which  supplies  might 
be  obtained  for  the  Jamestown  colony.  He  accord- 
ingly sailed  June  19th,  in  his  cedar  vessel,  and  his 
name  was  then  given  to  the  islands,  though  Ber- 
muda has  since  prevaled. 

Contrary  winds  and  storms  carried  him  to  the 
northward,  to  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Cod.  Somers 
persevered  and  reached  the  islands,  but  age,  anxi- 
ety and  exertion  contributed  to  produce  his  end. 
Perceiving  the  approach  of  death,  he  exhorted  his 
companions  to  continue  their  exertions  for  the  bene- 
fit of  the  plantations,  and  to  return  to  Virginia. 
Alarmed  at  the  untimely  fate  of  their  leader,  the 
colonists  embalmed  his  body,  and,  disregarding  his 
dying  injunction,  sailed  for  England.  Three  only 
of  the  men  volunteered  to  remain,  and  for  some  time 
after  their  companions  left  they  continued  to  cultivate 
the  soil,  but  unfortunately  they  found  some  ambergris, 
nd  they  fell  into  innumerable  quarrels  respecting  its 
possession.  They  at  length  resolved  to  build  a 
boat  and  sail  for  Newfoundland  with  their  prize, 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


29 


but,  happily  for  them,  they  were  prevented  by  the 
arrival  of  a ship  from  Europe.  An  extraordinary 
interest  was  excited  in  England,  by  the  relation  of 
Captain  Mathew  Somers,  the  nephew  and  heir  of 
Sir  George.  The  usual  exaggerations  were  pub- 
lished, and  public  impressions  were  heightened  by 
contrast  with  the  dark  ideas  formerly  prevalent 
concerning  these  islands.  A charter  was  obtained 
of  King  James  I.,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  gen- 
tlemen detached  themselves  from  the  Virginia  com- 
pany, and  formed  a company  under  the  name  and 
style  of  the  Governor  and  Company  of  the  City  of 
London,  for  the  plantation  of  the  Somer  Islands. 

On  the  28th  of  April,  1612,  the  first  ship  was  sent 
out  with  sixty  emigrants,  under  the  charge  of  Rich- 
Hrd  Moore,  who  was  appointed  the  governor  of  the 
colony.  They  met  the  boat  containing  the  three 
men  left  on  the  island,  who  were  overjoyed  at  see- 
ing the  ship,  and  conducted  her  into  the  harbor. 
It  was  not  long  before  intelligence  of  the  discovery 
of  the  ambergris  reached  the  governor,,  he  promptly 
deprived  the  three  men  of  it.  One  of  them  named 
Chard,  who  denied  all  knowledge  of  it,  and  caused 
considerable  disturbance,  which  at  onetime  seemed 
likely  to  result  in  a sanguinary  encounter,  was 
condemned  to  be  hanged,  and  was  only  reprieved 
when  on  the  ladder. 

The  governor  now  applied  himself  actively  to  his 
duties.  He  had  originally  landed  on  Smith’s  Islands, 
but  he  soon  removed  to  the  spot  where  St.  George’s 
now  stands,  and  built  the  town  which  was  named 


30 


STAJ^I^^S  ILLUSTRATED 


after  Sir  George  Somers,  and  which  became,  and 
remained  for  two  centuries,  the  capital  of  Bermuda. 
He  laid  the  foundation  of  eight  or  nine  forts,  for 
the  defence  of  the  harbor,  and  also  trained  the  men 
to  arms,  in  order  that  they  might  defend  the  infant 
colony  from  attack.  This  proved  necessary,  for,  in 
1614,  two  Spanish  ships  attempted  to  enter  the  har- 
bor ; the  forts  were  promptly  manned  and  two  shots 
fired  at  the  enemy,  who,  finding  them  better  pre- 
pared than  they  imagined,  bore  away. 

Before  the  close  of  1615,  six  vessels  had  arrived 
with  three  hundred  and  forty  passengers,  among 
whom  were  a marshall  and  one  Bartlett,  who  was 
sent  out  expressly  to  divide  the  colony  into  tribes  or 
shares,  but  the  governor  finding  no  mention  of  any 
shares  for  himself,  and  the  persons  with  him,  as 
had  been  agreed  on,  forbade  his  proceeding  with 
his  survey.  The  survey  was  afterward  made  by 
Richard  Norwood,  which  divided  the  land  into 
tribes,  now  parishes  ; these  shares  form  the  founda- 
tion of  the  land  tenure  of  the  islands  even  to  this 
day,  the  divisional  lines  in  many  cases  yet  re- 
maining intact.  Moore,  whose  time  had  expired, 
went  back  to  England,  in  1615,  leaving  the  ad- 
ministration of  the  government  to  six  persons,  who 
were  to  rule,  each  in  turn,  one  month.  They  pro- 
ceeded to  elect  by  lot  their  first  ruler,  the  choice 
falling  upon  Charles  Caldicot,  who  then  went,  with 
a crew  of  thirty-two  men,  in  a vessel  to  the 
West  Indies,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  plants, 
goats  and  young  cattle  for  the  islands.  The  vessel 


Two  Naiives. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


31 


was  wrecked  there,  and  the  crew  were  indebted  to 
an  English  pirate  for  being  rescued  from  a des- 
ert island  on  which  they  had  been  cast. 

For  a time  the  colony  was  torn  by  contention  and 
discord,  as  well  as  by  scarcity  of  food ; the  news 
of  these  dissentions  having  reached  England,  the 
company  sent  out  Daniel  Tucker,  as  governor. 
Tucker  was  a stern,  hard  master,  and  he  en- 
forced vigorous  measures  to  compel  the  people  to 
work  for  the  Company.  The  provisions  and  stores 
he  issued  in  certain  quantities,  and  paid  each  la- 
borer a stated  sum  in  brass  coin,  struck  by  the 
proprietor,  for  the  purpose,  having  a hog  on  one 
side  in  commemoration  of  the  abundance  of  those 
animals,  found  by  the  first  settlers,  and  on  the  re- 
verse a ship.  Pieces  of  this  curious  hog  money,  as 
it- is  called,  is  frequently  found,  and  it  brings  a 
high  price. 

Shortly  after  Governor  Tucker  arrived,  he  sent 
to  the  West  Indies  for  plants  and  fruit-trees,  the 
vessel  returned  with  figs,  pineapples,  sugar-cane, 
plantin  and  paw-paw,  which  were  all  planted  and 
rapidly  multiplied.  This  vessel  also  brought  the 
first  slaves  into  the  colony,  an  Indian  and  a Negro. 

The  company  dispatched  a small  bark  called 
the  Hopewell,  with  supplies  for  the  colony,  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Powell.  On  his  way  he 
met  a Portuguese  vessel  homeward  bound  from 
Brazil,  with  a cargo  of  sugar,  and,  as  Smith  adds, 
“ liked  the  sugar  and  passengers  so  well  ” he  made 
a prize  of  her.  Fearing  to  face  Governor  Tucker 


32 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


after  this  piratical  act,  he  directed  his  course  to 
the  West  Indies.  On  his  arrival  there  he  met  a 
French  pirate,  who  pretended  to  have  a warm  re- 


HOG  MONEY. 


gard  for  him,  and  invited  him,  with  his  officers,  to 
an  entertainment.  Suspecting  nothing,  he  accepted 
the  invitation,  but  no  sooner  had  they  been  well 
seated  at  table,  than  they  were  all  seized,  and 
threatened  with  instant  death,  unless  they  surren- 
dered their  prize.  This,  Powell  was,  of  course, 
compelled  to  do,  and  finding  his  provisions  failing 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


33 


him,  he  put  the  Portuguese  crew  on  shore,  and 
sailed  for  Bermuda,  where  he  managed  to  ex- 
cuse himself  to  the  governor.  'Powell  again  went 
to  the  West  Indies  pirating,  and,  in  May,  he  ar- 
rived with  three  prizes  laden  with  meal,  hides  and 
ammunition.  Tucker  received  him  kindly  and 
treated  him  with  consideration,  until  he  had  the 
goods  in  his  own  possession,  when  he  reproached 
the  captain  with  his  piratical  conduct,  and  called  him 
to  account  for  his  proceedings.  The  unlucky 
buccaneer  was,  in  the  end,  glad  to  escape  to  Eng- 
land, leaving  his  prizes  in  the  hands  of  the  gov- 
ernor. 

The  discipline  and  hard  labor  required  of  the 
people  reduced  them  to  a condition  but  little  bet- 
ter than  that  of  slaves,  and  caused  many  to  make 
desperate  efforts  to  escape  from  the  islands.  Five 
persons,  neither  of  whom  were  sailors,  built  a fish- 
ing boat  for  the  governor,  and  when  completed  they 
borrowed  a compass  from  their  preacher,  for  whom 
they  left  a farewell  epistle.  In  this  they  reminded 
him  how  often  he  had  exhorted  them  to  patience 
under  ill-treatment,  and  had  told  them  how  Provi- 
dence would  pay  them,  if  man  did  not.  They 
trusted,  therefore,  that  he  would  now  practice  what 
he  had  so  often  preached. 

These  brave  men  endured  great  hardships,  in 
their  boat  of  three  tons,  during  their  rash  voyage, 
but  at  the  end  of  about  forty-two  days  they  arrived 
at  Ireland,  where  their  exploit  was  considered  so 
wonderful  that  the  Earl  of  Thomond  caused  them 


34 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


to  be  received  and  entertained,  and  hung  up  their 
boat  as  a monument  of  this  extraordinary  voyage.  I 
The  governor  was  greatly  exasperated  at  their  es- 
cape,  and  threatened  to  hang  the  whole  of  them  if  : 
they  returned. 

Another  party  of  three,  one  of  whom  was  a lady,  V 
attempted  in  a like  manner  to  reach  Virginia,  but 
were  never  afterwards  heard  of.  Six  others  were 
discovered,  before  they  effected  their  departure, 
and  one  was  executed.  John  Wood,  who  was  1 
found  guilty  of  speaking  “ many  distasteful  and  1 
mutinous  speeches  against  the  Governor,”  was  also 
condemned  and  executed. 

As  there  were  at  that  time  only  about  500  in- 
habitants on  these  islands,  it  would  appear  from 
Captain  Smith’s  History,  that  Tucker  hanged  a 
good  percentage  . of  them.  Many  were  the  com- 
plaints that  were  forwarded  to  England  concern- 
ing the  tyrannical  government  of  Tucker,  and  he, 
fearing  to  be  recalled,  at  last  returned  to  England 
of  his  own  accord,  having  appointed  a person 
named  Kendall,  as  his  deputy. 

Kendall  was  disposed  to  be  attentive  to  his  office, 
but  wanted  energy,  and  the  company  took  an  early 
opportunity  to  relieve  him  ; this  was  not  very  agree- 
able to  the  people,  but  they  did  not  offer  any  resis- 
tance. 

Governor  Butler  arrived  with  four  ships  and  five 
hundred  men,  on  the  20th  October,  1619,  which  raised 
the  number  of  the  colonists  to  1000, and  at  his  de- 
parture three  years  later,  it  had  increased  to  1500. 


Fcmhrolcs  ^0 


3 Cath£rins 


Southampton  jjv 


Devonfhire 


J^edout 


"~Warwicks 


>umimry 


Wouht 


Fenilions  Ji^Dutc 


'~Ihes  Letters 

A.B  . (F-Thew 

the  fituuction  cf 
the  3 hrt^esF 
the  JM.ount.I),E- 
F.GtHXKZM- 

N.O  j' forts  how 
and  whom  the) 
werrrutii  thehiflo- 
rv  willjhew you  . 
7!ic  Aifervphm  o£y  W 
Nomvooi* 
JBccmn&l  mtc  this  crip- 


il'muil  h lamts'Ftry 


elchnSrhdi 


Ancient  Map  and  View  of  Bermuda,  Publisfjg^j  Capt.  John  Smith  in  1624. 


5! 

J 

M 

BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


37 


On  the  1st  of  August,  1620,  in  conformity  with 
instructions  sent  out  by  the  company,  the  governor 
summoned  the  first  general  assembly  at  St.  George’s 
for  the  dispatch  of  public  business.  It  consisted  oi 
the  governor,  council,  bailiffs,  burgesses,  secretary 
and  clerk.  It  appears  that  they  all  sat  in  one  house, 
which  was  probably  the  “ State  House”  show  on 
Smith’s  engraving.  Most  of  the  Acts  passed  on  this 
occasion  were  creditable  to  the  new  legislators. 

Governor  Butler,  as  Moore  had  done  before  him, 
turned  his  chief  attention  to  the  building  of  forts 
and  magazines,  he  also  finished  the  cedar  church 
at  St.  George’s,  and  caused  the  assembly  to  pass 
an  act  for  the  building  of  three  bridges,  and  then 
initiated  the  useful  project  of  connecting  together 
the  principal  islands.  When  Governor  Butler  re- 
turned to  England,  he  left  the  islands  in  a greatA 
improved  condition.  But  in  his  time  also,  there  was 
such  frequent  mutinies  and  discontent,  that  at  last 
‘ h_  ^or  deliverance  from  his  thankless  and 

troublesome  employmentd’  It  was  probably  during 
Governor  Butler’s  administration  that  * Captain  John 
Smith  had  a map  and  illustrations  of  the  Summer  Isle 
made,  for  in  it  we  find  the  three  bridges,  numerous 
well-constructed  forts  and  the  State  House  at 


* Captain  John  Smith  was  never  in  Bermuda,  he  derived  all  his 
information  from  his  opportunities  as  a member  of  the  Virginia 
Company,  and  from  correspondence  or  personal  narratives  of 
returned  planters.  This  was  his  habitual  way,  as  is  shown  by 
the  number  of  authorities  that  he  quotes.  He  probably  obtained 
the  sketches  from  which  these  illustrations  were  made  from 
Richard  Norwood. 


38 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


St.  George’s.  The  map  and  illustrations  were 
published  in  “Smith’s  General  Historie  of  Virginia, 
New  England  and  the  Summer  Ils”  1624;  they  are 
of  the  greatest  value  and  importance,  as  they  show 
accurately  the  class  of  buildings  and  forts  erected  on 
these  islands  at  that  early  period  ; such  details  even 
are  entered  into  as  the  showing  of  the  stocks  in  the 
market  place  of  St.  George’s  and  the  architecture  and 
the  substantial  manner  in  which  the  buildings  were 
constructed  is  remarkable,  especially  so  when  it  is 
considered  that  previous  to  1620  the  Puritans  had  not 
settled  at  Plymouth,  and  it  was  ten  years  from  that 
date  before  the  settlement  of  Boston  ; in  fact,  with 
the  exception  of  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  the  Eng- 
lish had  not  secured  a foot-hold  in  North  America 
at  the  time  these  buildings  and  forts  were  con- 
structed. There  are  very  few  copies  of  this  rare 
print  in  existance,  even  in  Smith’s  history  it  is  usu- 
ally found  wanting,  and  it  was  only  after  consider- 
able trouble  and  expense  that  the  writer  succeeded 
in  obtaining  a reproduction  of  it. 

The  early  history  of  Bermuda  is  in  many  impor- 
tant points  similar  to  that  of  New  England.  Like 
motives  had  in  most  instances  induced  emigration, 
and  the  distinguished  characteristics  of  those  people 
were  repeated  here. 

Like  the  Salem  and  Boston  colonists,  they  had 
their  witchcraft  delusions,  anticipating  that,  how- 
ever, some  twenty  years,  Christian  North  was  tried 
for  it  in  1668,  but  was  acquited.  Somewhat  later  a 
negro  woman,  Sarah  Basset,  was  burned  at  Paget, 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


39 


for  the  same  offence.  The  Quakers  were  perse- 
cuted, by  fines,  imprisonment,  and  banishment,  by 
the  stern  and  dark-souled  Puritans,  who  had  emi- 
grated to  this  place  to  escape  oppression,  and  to  en- 
joy religious  toleration,  but  were  not  willing  to 
grant  to  others,  that  differed  from  them  in  their  re- 
ligious belief,  the  same  privileges  as  they  them- 
selves enjoyed. 

The  Company  discovered  by  degrees  that  the 
Bermudas  were  not  the  Eldorado  which  they 
had  fondly  imagined  them  to  be.  The  colonists 
were  now  numerous,  and  every  day  showed  a strong 
disposition  to  break  away  from  the  control  of  the 
Company.  The  Company  had  issued  an  order  for- 
bidding the  inhabitants  to  receive  any  ships  but 
such  as  were  commissioned  by  them.  The  Com- 
pany complained  against  the  quality  of  tobacco 
shipped  to  London,  as  well  as  the  quantity. 

The  people  were  forbidden  to  cut  cedar  without  a 
special  license,  and  as  they  were  in  the  habit  of  ex- 
porting oranges,  in  chests  made  of  this  wood,  the 
regulation  operated  very  materially  to  the  injury  of 
the  place.  Previous  to  this  order,  many  homeward 
bound  West  Indiamen  arrived  at  Castle  Harbor, 
to  load  with  this  fruit  for  the  English  market. 
Whaling  was  claimed  as  an  exclusive  privilege, 
and  was  conducted  for  the  sole  benefit  of  the 
proprietors.  Numerous  attempts  were  made  to 
boil  sugar,  but  the  Company  directed  the  Governor 
to  prevent  it,  as  it  would  require  too  much  wood 
for  fuel. 


40  TARK  ’ 5 ILL  US  TRA  TED 

In  consequence  of  instructions  from  England, 
Governor  Turner  called  upon  all  the  inhabitants  of 
the  islands  to  take  the  oath  of  supremacy  and  alle- 
giance to  His  Majesty,  but,  as  the  Puritans  had  left 
their  native  country  on  account  of  their  republican 
sentiments,  they  refused  to  comply,  and  the  prisons 
were  soon  filled  to  overflowing. 

, The  rapid  change  of  affairs  in  England,  during 
the  civil  war,  in  which  the  Puritans  were  victor- 
ious, and  Cromwell  was  elevated  to  the  Protec- 
torship, opened  the  doors  of  the  prisons,  and 
stopped  all  futher  persecutions,  both  political  and 
religious. 

It  must  be  said  in  favor  of  the  Company,  that 
they  had,  at  an  early  period,  established  schools 
throughout  the  colony,  and  appropriated  lands,  in 
most  of  the  tribes  or  parishes,  for  the  maintainance 
of  the  teachers. 

From  1630  to  1660  many  negro  and  Indian 
slaves  were  brought  to  the  colony.  The  negroes 
from  Africa  and  the  West  Indies,  and  a large  num- 
ber of  Indians  from  Massachusetts,  prisoners  taken 
in  the  Pequot  and  King  Phillip’s  wars.  The  traces 
of  their  Indian  ancestry  can  readily  be  seen  in 
many  of  the  colored  people  of  these  islands  at  the 
present  time. 

In  October,  1661,  the  Protestant  inhabitants  were 
alarmed  by  rumors  of  a proposed  combination  be- 
tween the  Negroes  and  the  Irish.  The  plan  was  to* 
arm  themselves,  and  massacre  the  whites  who  were 
not  Catholics.  Fortunately  the  plot  was  discovered 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


41 


in  time,  and  measures  adopted  to  disarm  the  slaves 
and  the  disaffected. 

The  proprietary  form  of  government  continued 
until  1685,  with  a long  succession  of  good,  bad  and 
indifferent  governors. 

Many  acts  of  piracy  were  perpetrated,  at  differ- 
ent times,  by  the  inhabitants  of  these  islands.  In 
1665  Captain  John  Wentworth  made  a descent  up- 
on the  island  of  Tortola,  and  brought  off  about 
ninety  slaves,  the  property  of  the  governor  of  the 
place.  Governor  Seymour  received  a letter  from 
him  in  which  he  stated  that,  “upon  the  9th  day  of 
July,  there  came  hither  against  me  a pirate  or  sea 
robber,  named  John  Wentworth,  the  which  overrun 
my  lands,  and  that  against  the  will  of  mine  owne 
inhabits,  and  shewed  himself  a tyrant,  in  robbing 
and  firing,  and  took  my  negroes  from  my  Isle,  be- 
longing to  no  man  but  myself.  And  likewise  I doe 
understand,  that  this  said  John  Wentworth,  a sea 
robber,  is  an  indweller  with  you,  soe  I desire  that 
you  would  punish  this  rogue,  according  to  your 
good  law.  I desire  you,  soe  soon  as  you  have  this 
truth  of  mine,  if  you  don’t  of  yourself,  restore  all 
my  negroes  againe,  whereof,  I shall  stay  here  three 
months,  and  in  default  of  this,  soe  be  assured,  that 
wee  shall  speake  together  very  shortly,  and  then'  I 
shall  be  my  owne  judge.” 

This  threatening  letter  caused  great  consternation, 
and  immediately  steps  were  taken  to  place  the  col- 
ony in  the  best  posture  for  defense,  reliance  being 
had  on  the  impregnability  of  the  islands,  instead  of 


42 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


delivering  up  the  plunder,  especially,  as  Captain 
Wentworth  held  a commission  from  the  governor 
and  council,  and  acted  under  their  instructions. 

Isaac  Richier,  who  became  governor  of  the  col- 
ony in  1691,  was  another  celebrated  freebooter. 
The  account  of  his  reign  reads  like  a romance.  The 
love  of  gold,  and  the  determination  to  possess  it, 
was  the  one  idea  of  his  statesmanship.  He  was  a 
pirate  at  sea,  and  a brigand  on  land.  Nevertheless 
it  does  not  appear  that  any  of  his  misdeeds,  such 
as  hanging  innocent  people,  and  robbing  British 
ships,  as  well  as  others,  led  to  his  recall,  or  caused 
any  degree  of  indignation,  which  such  conduct  usu- 
ally arouses.  The  fact  appears  to  be,  that,  al- 
though Governor  Richier  was  a bold,  bad  man,  yet 
few  of  his  subjects  were  entitled  to  throw  the  first 
stone  at  his  excellency. 

Benjamin  Bennett  became  governor  of  the  col- 
ony in  1701.  At  this  time  the  Bahama  Islands  had 
become  a rendezvous  for  pirates,  and  a few  years 
later.  King  George  the  First  issued  a proclamation 
for  their  dislodgement.  Governor  Bennett  accord- 
ingly dispatched  a sloop,  ordering  the  marauders 
to  surrender.  Those  who  were  on  shore,  on  his 
arrival,  gladly  accepted  the  opportunity  to  escape, 
and  declared  that  they  did  not  doubt  but  that  their 
companions,  who  were  at  sea,  would  follow  their  ex- 
ample. Captain  Henry  Jennings,  and  fifteen  others, 
sailed  for  Bermuda,  and  were  soon  followed  by  four 
other  captains,  Leslie,  Nichols,  Hornigold  and  Bur- 
ges, with  one  hundred  men,  who  all  surrendered. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


43 


III  1710,  the  Spaniards  made  a descent  on  Turks 
Island,  which  had  been  settled  by  the  Bermudians, 
for  the  purpose  of  gathering  salt,  and  took  posses- 
sion of  the  island  making  prisoners  of  the  people. 
The  Bermudians,  at  their  own  expense  and  own  ac- 
cord, dispatched  a force  under  Captain  Lewis  Mid- 
dleton, to  regain  possession  of  the  Bahamas  Cays. 
The  expedition  was  successful,  and  a victory 
gained  over  the  Spaniards,  and  they  were  driven 
from  the  islands ; they  still,  however,  continued 
to  make  predatory  attacks  on  the  salt-rakers 
at  the  ponds,  and  on  the  vessels  going  for 
and  carrying  away  salt.  To  repel  these  ag- 
gressions and  afford  security  to  their  trade,  the 
Bermudians  went  to  the  expense  of  arming  their 
vessels. 

In  1775  the  discontent  in  the  American  provinces 
had  broken  out  into  open  opposition  to  the  crown, 
and  the  people  were  forbidden  to  trade  with  their 
late  fellow  subjects.  Bermuda  suffered  great  want 
in  consequence,  for  at  this  period,  instead  of  export- 
ing provisions,  the  islands  had  become  dependent 
on  the  continent  for  the  means  of  subsistence.  This, 
together  with  the  fact  that  many  of  the  people  pos- 
sessed near  relatives  engaged  in  the  struggle  with 
the  Crown,  tended  to  destroy  good  feelings  towards 
the  British  Government,  these  circumstances  must 
be  considered  in  order  to  judge  fairly  of  the 
following  transaction  which  has  always  been  re- 
garded to  have  cast  a stain  upon  the  patriotism  and 
loyalty  of  the  Bermudians. 


44 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


At  the  outbreak  of  the  American  revolution,  two 
battles  were  fought  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston,  Lex- 
ington and  Bunker  Hill,  after  which  all  intercourse 
with  the  surrounding  country  ceased,  and  Boston  was 
reduced  to  a state  of  seige.  Civil  war  commenced  in 
all  its  horrors,  the  sundering  of  social  ties,  the 
burning  of  peaceful  homes,  the  butchery  of  kindred 
and  friends. 

Washington  was  appointed,  by  the  Continental 
Congress,  commander  in  chief  of  the  American 
forces,  and  on  July  3,  1775,  two  weeks  afeer  the  bat- 
tle of  Bunker  Hill,  he  took  formal  command  of  the 
army  at  Cambridge.  In  a letter  to  the  president  of 
Congress  notifying  him  of  his  safe  arrival  there,  he 
made  the  following  statement.  “Upon  the  article 
of  ammunition,  I must  reecho  the  former  complaints 
on  this  subject.  We  are  so  exceedingly  destitute 
that  our  artillery  will  be  of  little  use,  without  a sup- 
ply both  large  and  seasonable.  What  we  have 
must  be  reserved  for  the  small  arms,  and  that  well 
managed  with  the  utmost  frugality.”  A few  weeks 
later  General  Washington  wrote  the  following  let- 
ter on  the  same  subject.  * 

TO  GOVERNOR  COOKE,  OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 

Camp  at  Cambridge,  4 August,  1775. 

Sir, 

I am  now.  Sir,  in  strict  confidence,  to  acquaint 
you,  that  our  necessities  in  the  articles  of  powder 


♦Writings  of  George  Washington,  by  J.  Sparks,  vol.  iii.. 
page  47. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


45 


and  lead  are  so  great,  as  to  require  an  immediate 
supply.  I must  earnestly  entreat,  that  you  will  fall 
upon  some  measure  to  forward  every  pound  of  each 
in  your  colony,  that  can  possibly  be  spared.  It  is 
not  within  the  propriety  or  safety  of  such  a corre- 
spondence to  say  what  I might  on  this  subject.  It 
is  sufficient,  that  the  case  calls  loudly  for  the  most 
strenuous  exertions  of  every  friend  of  his  country, 
and  does  not  admit  of  the  least  delay.  No  quantity, 
however  small,  is  beneath  notice,  and,  should  any 
arrive,  I beg  it  may  be  forwarded  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. 

But  a supply  of  this  kind  is  so  precarious,  not 
only  from  the  danger  of  the  enemy,  but  the  oppor- 
tunity of  purchasing,  that  I have  revolved  in  my 
mind  every  other  possible  chance,  and  listened  to 
every  proposition  on  the  subject,  which  could  give 
the  smallest  hope.  Among  others,  I have  had  one 
mentioned,  which  has  some  weight  with  me,  as  well 
as  the  general  officers  to  whom  I have  proposed  it. 
A Mr.  Harris  has  lately  come  from  Bermuda,  where 
there  is  a very  considerable  magazine  of  powder  in 
a remote  part  of  the  island ; and  the  inhabitants  are 
well  disposed  not  only  to  our  cause  in  general,  but 
to  assist  m this  enterprise  in  particular.  We  under- 
stand there  are  two  armed  vessels  in  your  province, 
commanded  by  men  of  known  activity  and  spirit ; 
one  of  which,  it  is  proposed  to  despatch  gn  this 
errand  with  such  assistance  as  may  be  requisite. 
Harris  is  to  go  along,  as  the  conductor  of  the  enter- 
prise, that  we  may  avail  ourselves  of  his  knowledge 


46 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


of  the  island ; but  without  any  command.  I am 
very  sensible,  that  at  first  view  the  project  may  ap- 
pear hazardous ; and  its  success  must  depend  on 
the  concurrence  of  many  circumstances ; but  we 
are  in  a situation,  which  requires  us  to  run  all  risks. 
No  danger  is  to  be  considered,  when  put  in  compe- 
tition with  the  magnitude  of  the  cause,  and  the  ab- 
solute necessity  we  are  under  of  increasing  our 
stock.  Enterprises,  which  appear  chimerical,  often 
prove  successful  from  that  very  circumstance.  Com- 
mon sense  and  prudence  will  suggest  vigilance  and 
care,  where  the  danger  is  plain  and  obvious ; but, 
where  little  danger  is  apprehended,  the  more  the 
enemy  will  be  unprepared  ; and  consequently  there 
is  the  fairest  prospect  of  success. 

Mr.  Brown  has  been  mentioned  to  me  as  a very 
proper  person  to  be  consulted  upon  this  occasion. 
You  will  judge  of  the  propriety  of  communicating 
it  to  him  in  part  or  the  whole,  and  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible favor  me  with  your  sentiments,  and  the  steps 
you  may  have  taken  to  forward  it.  If  no  immediate 
and  safe  opportunity  offers,  yon  will  please  to  do  it 
by  express.  Should  it  be  inconvenient  to  part  with 
one  of  the  armed  vessels,  perhaps  some  other  might 
be  fitted  out,  or  you  could  devise  some  other  mode 
of  executing  this  plan ; so  that,  in  case  of  a disap- 
pointment, the  vessel  might  proceed  to  some  other 
island  to  purchase.  * * * ^^  ^^  * # 

I am.  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient,  humble  servant, 

G.  Washington. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


47 


This  plan  was  approved  by  the  governor  and  com- 
mittee of  Rhode  Island,  and  Captain  Abraham 
Whipple  agreed  to  engage  in  the  affair,  provided 
General  Washington  would  give  him  a certificate 
under  his  own  hand,  that  in  case  the  Bermudians 
would  assist  the  undertaking,  he  would  recommend 
to  the  Continental  Congress  to  permit  the  exporta- 
tion of  provisions  to  those  islands  from  the  colonies. 

General  Washington  accordingly  sent  the  follow- 
ing address  to  the  Bermudians. 

TO  THE  INHABITANTS  OF  THE  ISLAND  OF  BERMUDA. 

Camp  at  Cambridge,  6 September,  1775. 

Gentlemen, 

In  the  great  conflict,  which  agitates  this  conti- 
nent, I cannot  doubt  but  the  assertors  of  freedom 
and  the  rights  of  the  constitution  are  possessed  of 
your  most  favorable  regards  and  wishes  for  success. 
As  descendants  of  freemen,  and  heirs  with  us  of  the 
same  glorious  inheritance,  we  flatter  ourselves,  that, 
though  divided  by  our  situation,  we  are  firmly 
united  in  sentiment.  The  cause  of  virtue  and  lib- 
erty is  confined  to  no  continent  or  climate.  It  com- 
prehends, within  its  capacious  limits,  the  wise  and 
good,  however  dispersed  and  separated  in  space  or 
distance. 

You  need  not  be  informed,  that  the  violence  and  ra- 
pacity of  a tyrannic  ministry  have  forced  the  citizens 
of  America,  your  brother  colonist,  into  arms.  We 


* Writings  of  George  Washington,  bj  J.  Sparks,  vol.  iii., 
page  77. 


48 


STARK ILLUSTRATED 


equally  detest  and  lament  the  prevalence  of  those 
counsels,  which  have  led  to  the  effusion  of  so  much 
human  blood,  and  left  us  no  alternative  but  a civil 
war,  or  a base  submission.  The  wise  Disposer  of 
all  events  has  hitherto  smiled  upon  our  virtuous 
efforts.  Those  mercenary  troops,  a few  of  whom 
latel}^  boasted  of  subjugating  this  vast  continent, 
have  been  checked  in  their  earliest  ravages,  and  are 
now  actually  encircled  within  a small  space ; their 
arms  disgraced,  and  themselves  suffering  all  the 
calamities  of  a siege.  The  virtue,  spirit,  and  union 
of  the  provinces  leave  them  nothing  to  fear,  but  the 
want  of  ammunition.  The  application  of  our 
enemies  to  foreign  states,  and  their  vigilance  upon 
our  coasts,  are  the  only  efforts  they  have  made 
against  us  with  success. 

Under  these  circumstances,  and  with  these  senti- 
ments, we  have  turned  our  eyes  to  you,  Gentlemen, 
for  relief.  We  are  informed,  that  there  is  a very 
large  magazine  in  your  island  under  a very  feeble 
guard.  We  would  not  wish  to  involve  you  in  an 
opposition,  in  which,  from  your  situation,  we  should 
be  unable  to  support  you  ; we  knew  not,  therefore, 
to  what  extent  to  solicit  your  assistance,  in  availing 
ourselves  of  this  supply ; but,  if  your  favor  and 
friendship  to  North  America  and  its  liberties  have 
not  been  misrepresented,  I persuade  myself  you 
may,  consistently  with  your  own  safety,  promote 
and  further  this  scheme,  so  as  to  give  it  the  fairest 
prospect  of  success.  Be  assured,  that,  in  this  case, 
the  whole  power  and  exertion  of  my  influence  will 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


49 


be  made  with  the  honorable  Continental  Congress, 
that  your  island  may  not  only  be  supplied  with 
provisions,  but  experience  every  other  mark  of 
affection  and  friendship,  which  the  grateful  citizens 
of  a free  country  can  bestow  on  its  brethren  and 
benefactors.  I am.  Gentlemen, 


With  much  esteem. 

Your  humble  servant,  - 


Captain  Whipple  had  scarcely  sailed  from  Provi- 
dence before  an  account  appeared  in  the  newspapers 
of  one  hundred  barrels  of  powder  having  been 
taken  from  Bermuda,  by  a vessel  supposed  to  be 
from  Philadelphia,  and  another  from  South  Carolina. 
This  was  the  same  powder  that  Captain  Whipple 
had  gone  to  procure.  General  Washington  and 
Governor  Crook  were  both  of  the  opinion  it  was 
best  to  countermand  his  instructions.  The  other 
armed  vessel  of  Rhode  Island  was  immediately 
dispatched  in  search  of  the  captain  with  orders  to 
return. 

But  it  was  too  late,  he  reached  Bermuda  and  put 
in  at  the  West  end  of  the  island.  The  inhabitants 
were  at  first  alarmed,  supposing  him  to  command  a 
kings  armed  vessel,  and  the  women  and  children 
fled  from  that  vicinity,  but  when  he  showed  them  his 
commission  and  instructions  they  treated  him  with 


50 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


much  cordiality  and  friendship,  and  informed  him 
that  they  had  assisted  in  removing  the  powder,  which 
was  made  known  to  Gen.  Gage,  and  he  had  sent  a 
sloop  of  war  to  the  island.  They  professed  them- 
selves hearty  friends  to  the  American  cause.  Cap- 
tain Whipple  being  defeated  in  the  object  of  his 
voyage  returned  to  Providence. 

Soon  after  the  inhabitants  of  Bermuda  petitioned 
congress  for  relief,  representing  their  great  distress 
in  consequence  of  being  deprived  of  the  supplies 
that  usually  came  from  the  colonies.  In  considera- 
tion of  their  being  friendly  to  the  cause  of  America, 
it  was  resolved  by  congress  that  provisions  in  cer- 
tain quantities  might  be  exported  to  them.* 

The  powder  procured  from  the  Bermudians  led 
to  the  first  great  victory  gained  by  Washington  in 
the  revolutionary  war,  the  evacuation  of  Boston  by 
the  British  army.  After  the  arrival  of  the  powder, 
Washington  caused  numerous  batteries  to  be  erected 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town.  On  the 
night  of  March  4th,  1776,  Dorchester  Heights 
were  taken  possession  of  and  works  erected  there 
which  commanded  Boston,  and  the  British  Fleet 
lying  at  anchor  in  the  harbor.  This  caused  the 
town  to  be  evacuated,  and  General  Howe  with  his 
army  and  about  one  thousand  loyalists  went  aboard 
of  the  fleet  and  sailed  for  Halifax,  March  17  th,  1776. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  indignation  of  Gover- 
nor Bruere,  when  he  received  intelligence  of  the 


♦Journal  of  Congress,  November  22d,  1775. 


Date  Paem. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


51 


plundering  of  the  magazine,  he  promptly  called 
upon  the  legislature  to  take  active  measures  for 
bringing  the  delinquents  to  justice.  No  evidence 
could  ever  be  obtained,  and  the  whole  transaction 
is  still  enveloped  in  mystery.  The  governor  let  no 
opportunity  escape  him  to  accuse  the  Bermudians 
of  disloyalty,  and  no  doubt  severe  punishment 
would  have  been  inflicted  on  the  delinquents  could 
they  have  been  discovered. 

Two  American  brigs  under  republican  colors  ar- 
rived shortly  after  this  and  remained  some  weeks  at 
the  west  end  of  the  islands  unmolested,  and  Gov- 
ernor Bruere  complained  bitterly  of  this  to  the 
assembly.^ 

Governor  George  James  Bruere  died  in  1780,  and 
the  administration  devolved  on  the  Hon.  Thomas 
Jones,  who  was  relieved  by  George  Bruere  as  Lieu- 
tenant Governor,  in  October,  1780. 

Governor  Bruere  was  soon  openly  at  varience 
with  the  assembly,  and  did  not  hesitate  to  accuse 
the  people  of  treason  in  supplying  the  revolted 
provinces  with  salt,  exchanging  it  for  provisions. 
Mr.  Bruere,  extremely  exasperated  at  their  trading, 
which  he  considered  to  be  treasonable  conduct,  com- 
mented on  it  in  his  message  to  the  assembly  in  no 
measured  terms.  Some  intercepted  correspond- 
ence with  the  rebels  added  fuel  to  the  flame,  and  on 
the  15th  of  August,  1781,  he  addressed  them  in  a 


* These  were  probably  the  vessels  sent  out  from  Rhode  Island, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Whipple. 


52 


S TAJIK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


speech  which  could  not  fail  to  be  offensive,  although 
it  contained  much  sound  argument.  This  was  fol- 
lowed by  a message  more  bitter  and  acrimonious, 
all  of  which  they  treated  with  silent  contempt  until 
the  25th  of  September,  when  they  discharged  their 
wrath  in  an  address,  in  which  the  governor  was 
handled  most  roughly  for  his  attacks  on  the  inhab- 
itants of  these  islands.  In  return  he  addressed  a 
message  equally  uncourteous  in  its  tone,  and  dis- 
solved the  house. 

The  arrival  of  William  Browne,  whose  adminis- 
tration commenced  4th  January,  1782,  put  an  end 
to  Mr.  Bruere’s  rule. 

The  high  character  of  the  new  governor  had  pro- 
ceeded him  in  the  colony,  and  he  was  joyfully  re- 
ceived on  his  arrival.  He  was  a native  of  Salem, 
Massachusetts,  and  was  high  in  office  previous  to 
the  revolution,  was  colonel  of  the  Essex  regiment, 
judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  Mandamus  Coun- 
selor. After  the  passage  of  the  Boston  port  bill, 
he  was  waited  on  by  a committee  of  the  Essex 
delegates,  to  inform  him,  that  “it  was  witff  grief 
that  the  country  had  viewed  his  exertions  for  carry- 
ing into  execution  certain  acts  of  parliament  calcu- 
lated to  enslave  and  ruin  his  native  land,  that  while 
the  country  would  continue  the  respect  for  several 
years  paid  him,  it  resolved  to  detach  from  every  fu- 
ture connection  all  such  as  shall  persist  in  support- 
ing or  in  any  way  countenancing  the  late  arbitrary 
acts  of  Parliament,  that  the  deligates  in  the 
name  of  the  country  request  him  to  excuse  them 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


53 


from  the  painful  necessity  of  considering  and  treat- 
ing him  as  an  enemy  to  his  country,  unless  he  re- 
signed his  office  as  counselor  and  judge.”  Col. 
Browne  replied  as  follows  : 

“ As  a judge  and  in  every  other  capacity,  I in- 
tend to  act  with  honor  and  integrity  and  to  exert  my 
best  abilities  ; and  be  assured  that  neither  persua- 
sion can  allure  me  nor  menaces  compel  me'  to  do 
anything  derogatory  to  the  character  of  a counselor 
of  his  majesty’s  province  of  Massachusetts.”  — Wm. 
Browne. 

Col.  Browne  was  esteemed  among  the  mosi 
opulent  and  benevolent  individuals  of  that  province 
prior  to  the  revolution  : and  so  great  was  his  popu- 
larity that  the  gubernatorial  chair  of  Massachusetts 
was  offered  him  by  the  “ committee  of  safety,”  as 
an  inducement  for  him  to  remain  and  join  the  “ sons 
of  liberty.”  But  he  felt  it  a duty  to  adhere  to  govern- 
ment ; even  at  the  expense  of  his  great  landed  es- 
tate, both  in  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  the 
latter  comprising  fourteen  valuable  farms,  all  oi 
which  were  afterwards  confiscated. 

By  prefering  to  remain  on  the  side  representing 
law  and  authority,  and  unwilling  to  adopt  the  course  of 
the  revolutionists,  this  courtly  representative  of  an 
ancient  and  honorable  family,  this  sincere  lover  of 
his  country,  this  skillful  man  of  affairs,  this  upright 
and  merciful  judge,  once  so  beloved  by  his  fellow 
townsmen,  drew  upon  himself  their  wrath,  and  he 
fled  from  his  native  country  never  to  return  again. 
First  he  sought  refuge  in  Boston  in  1774,  then  in 


3 


54 


5 TARK^S  ILL  US TRA  TED 


Halifax,  and  from  there  he  went  to  England  in 
1776,  where  he  remained  till  1781,  when  he  was  ap- 
pointed governor  of  Bermuda,  as  a slight  return 
for  his  great  sacrifices  and  important  services  in  be- 
half of  the  Crown.  Col.  Browne  married  his  cousin, 
the  daughter  of  Governor  Wanton,  of  Rhode  Is- 
land, and  was  doubly  connected  with  the  Winthrop 
family ; the  wives  of  the  elder  Brown  and  Governor 
Wanton  being  daughters  of  John  Winthrop,  great 
grandson  of  the  first  governor  of  Massachusetts. 
Col.  Browne’s  son  William  was  an  officer  in  the 
British  service  at  the  siege  of  Gibralter  in  1784. 

Under  the  judicious  management  of  Governor 
Browne,  the  colony  continued  to  steadily  flourish, 
he  conducted  the  business  of  the  colony  in  the  great- 
est harmony  with  the  different  branches  of  the  legis- 
lature. He  found  the  financial  affairs  of  the  is- 
lands in  a confused  and  ruinous  state,  and  left  them 
flourishing.  In  1788  he  left  for  England,  deeply 
and  sincerely  regretted  by  the  people,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  Henry  Hamilton  as  Lieutenant  Governor, 
during  whose  administration  the  town  of  Hamilton 
was  built  and  named  in  compliment  of  him. 

Near  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution  a 
plan  was  on  foot  to  take  Bermuda,  in  order  to  make 
it  a “ a nest  of  hornets”  for  the  annoyance  of  Brit" 
ish  trade,  but  the  war  closed,  and  it  was  abandoned. 
It,  however,  proved  a nest  of  hornets  to  the  United 
States,  during  the  late  civil  war.  At  that  time  St. 
George’s  was  a busy  town,  and  was  one  of  the  hot 
beds  of  secession.  Being  a great  resort  for  block- 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


55 


ade  runners,  which  were  hospitably  welcomed  here, 
immense  quantities  of  goods  were  purchased  in 
England,  and  brought  here  on  large  ocean  steam- 
ers, and  then  transferred  to  swift  sailing  blockade 
runners,  waiting  to  receive  it.  These  ran  the 
blockade  into  Charleston,  Wilmington  and  Sa- 
vannah. 

It  was  a risky  business,  but  one  that  was  well 
followed,  and  many  made  large  fortunes  there,  dur- 
ing the  first  years  of  the  war,  but  many  were  bank- 
rupt or  nearly  so,  at  its  close. 

The  town  was  crowded,  men  lay  on  verandas, 
walls,  docks  and  floors,  money  was  plenty  and 
sailors  sometimes  landed  after  a successful  run  with 
$1,500,  in  specie.  The  prices  of  labor  doubled, 
liquor  flowed  freely,  and  the  common  laborer  had 
his  champagne  and  rich  cake.  Here,  too,  was  con- 
cocted the  fiendish  plot  of  Dr.  Blackburn,  a Kentuck- 
ian, for  introducing  yellow  fever  into  Northern 
cities,  by  sending  thither  boxes  of  infected  clothing, 
but  it  was  fortunately  discovered  in  season  to  pre- 
vent injury,  save  to  the  plotters. 


CLIMATE. 

Bermuda  enjoys  one  of  the  finest  climates  in  the 
world,  situated,  as  it  is,  in  mid-ocean,  on  the  south- 
eastern margin  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  that  sweeps 
along  between  the  island  and  the  American  coast, 
it  IS  entirely  tree  from  frost.  The  cold,  wintry 
blasts  that  come  down  from  Manitoba  and  Dakota, 


56 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


extending  even  to  Florida,  are,  after  passing  over 
the  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  warmed,  and 
this  accounts  for  the  fact  that,  although  Bermuda  is 
but  one-half  as  far  south  from  New  York  as  Flor- 
ida, yet  it  enjoys  a far  more  equal  climate  than  any 
place  in  the  United  States,  either  on  the  Atlantic  or 
Gulf  coast. 

August  and  September  are  the  hottest  and  most 
disagreeable  months,  owing  to  the  enervating 
southerly  winds.  There  is,  however,  almost  in- 
variably a good  breeze  from  some  quarter,  and  the 
nights  and  mornings  are  cool  and  delightful.  Sun- 
stroke is  unknown.  The  mercury  seldom  rises 
above  85  degrees,  or  falls  below  50  degre.es,  while 
the  average  is  about  70  degrees.  Bermudians  sit 
on  their  verandas  throughout  the  year,  and  the 
majority  of  the  people  never  think  of  a fire,  ex- 
cept for  cooking  purposes.  Only  in  the  better  class 
of  houses  are  fire-places  provided,  and  a fire  is 
enjoyed  occasionally,  in  the  colder  days  of  winter, 
and  is  useful  to  counteract  the  dampness. 

Strangers  who  resort  here,  in  the  winter,  gener- 
ally speak  highly  of  the  climate.  The  worn  out 
and  exhausted  business  man  and  the  aged,  gener- 
ally find  the  place  most  agreeable  and  appropriate 
for  a lengthened  stay.  The  islands  are  noted  for 
the  longevity  of  the  native  population,  especially  of 
the  whites. 

There  seems  to  be  no  diseases  peculiar  to  the 
climate.  Consumptives  often  resort  here,  but  sel- 
dom derive  that  benefit  which  they  experience  in  a 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


57 


dry  climate.  The  climate  seems  to  be  especially 
beneficial  to  those  afflicted  with  rheumatism,  bron- 
chial and  nervous  diseases.  Bermuda  has  suffered 
several  times  from  yellow  fever,  but  in  each  in- 
stance, so  far  as  it  could  be  ascertained,  it  was 
brought  there  from  other  ports  ; the  last  attack  was 
during  the  civil  war  in  America,  when  the  country 
was  full  of  vicious  and  filthy  men,  congregated 
here  from  the  West  Indies  and  Southern  ports.  So 
well  situated  are  the  islands,  that  there  is  no  excuse 
for  defective  drainage  or  quarantine.  The  most 
terrible  outbreak  of  the  epidemic  occurred  in  1853, 
when  the  mortality  was  appalling,  sparing  no  class 
of  the  community.  The  quarantine  regulations  for 
the  islands  are  now  excellent,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  it  will  be  many  years  before  they  are  visited 
by  yellow  fever  again. 


AGRICULTURE  AND  COMMERCE. 

Although  three  crops  of  vegetables  can  be  pro- 
duced annually,  still  agriculture  is  in  a very  back- 
ward state.  In  the  early  days  of  the  colony,  when 
its  affairs  were  under  the  control  of  the  Company, 
large  crops  of  tobacco  were  successfully  cultivated, 
and  became  the  principal  article  of  export  to  Eng- 
land. During  the  17th  century,  a brisk  trade  in 
oranges  and  lemons  was  carried  on,  but,  of  late 
years,  agriculture  has  received  but  little  attention, 
and  is  chiefly  confined  to  raising  onions  and  early 
potatoes  for  the  New  York  market.  The  descend- 


58 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


ants  of  the  early  settlers  appear  to  have,  gradually 
lost  much  of  the  agricultural  knowledge  of  their 
forefathers. 

Tf'he  great  fertility  and  prodigious  growth  of  veg- 
etation in  warm  climates,  when  compared  with  the 
northern  parts  of  the  world,  is  almost  incredible,  so 
that  even  now,  with  a few  patches  only  that  have 
been  subjected  to  cultivation,  such  is  the  produc- 
tiveness of  the  soil,  that  the  exports  of  the  colony 
are  surprisingly  great.  If  the  valleys  and  other 
places  sheltered  from  the  wind  were  to  be  planted 
with  bananas,  oranges,  plantains,  lemons,  figs, 
shaddocks,  pineapples  and  other  tropical  fruits  and 
vegetables,  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  a profitable 
business  could  be  done  in  supplying  the  visitors 
that  are  annually  resorting  to  these  islands.  As  it 
is,  there  is  not  near  fruit  enough  raised  to  supply 
the  home  consumption. 

The  present  prospects  of  agriculture  in  Bermuda 
command  serious  considerations,  especially  as  New 
York  is  now  drawing  largely  on  Florida  for  its 
early  vegetables  and  fruits.  Florida  is  fast  filling 
up  with  an  industrious  and  progressive  population 
from  the  northern  states,  who  devote  their  attention 
entirely  to  agriculture,  besides  new  lines  of  railway 
are  being  constructed  all  over  that  state,  so  that 
produce  can  be  shipped  to  the^northern  markets  in 
less  time  than  it  can  be  sent  from  ti^ermuda  by 
steamship  to  New  York.  Agriculture  was  at  first 
the  leading  pursuit  in  Bermuda,  but  was  gradually 
abandoned  for  ship  building,  and  the  manufacture 


Paw  Vaw  Tree. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


61 


of  salt  at  Turks  Island.  Bermuda  was  largely  en- 
gaged at  one  time,  in  the  West  India  trade,  and 
carried  on  a large  commerce  with  the  British  Prov- 
inces and  the  United  States,  in  vessels  built  of  their 
native  cedar ; with  the  abolition  of  slavery,  the 
rise  of  ship  building  in  the  Provinces,  and  other 
causes,  the  trade  gradually  slipped  away. 


INHABITANTS. 

The  white  inhabitants  of  Bermuda  are  hospita- 
ble, well  informed  and  agreeable.  A stranger  is 
at  once  impressed  with  the  marked  courtesy  of  the 
people.  From  the  lowest  to  the  highest,  one  will 
receive  the  most  polite  attention.  A simplicity  al- 
most arcadian  characterize  their  manners,  espec- 
ially those  of  the  women.  Many  who  have  led 
very  circumscribed  lives,  who  have  never  been  away 
from  Bermuda,  possess  an  ease  and  grace  which 
would  do  credit  to  those  of  the  most  polished  soci- 
ety, arising  apparentl}’  from  perfect  faith  in  others, 
and  an  earnest  desire  to  add  to  their  pleasure  in 
every  possible  way.  In  matters  of  etiquette,  they 
resemble  their  English  ancestors,  and  are  generally 
much  more  exact  than  the  Americans  ; this  is  due  to 
the  fact,  probably,  of  their  association  with  the 
British  military  and  naval  officers,  a large  number 
of  whom  are  always  stationed  here. 

They  are  a comfortable,  well-to-do  set  of  people, 
with  here  and  there  a family  possessing  ample 
means.  As  in  England,  property,  especially  real 


b'2  ^STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 

estate,  remains  in  the  same  family  for  a long  period  ; 
some  of  the  descendants  of  the  original  settlers  are 
to  be  found  possessing  lands  that  have  never  passed 
out  of  their  family.  The  population  of  the  islands 
reached  its  highest  figure  in  1780,  -when  it  was  esti- 
mated at  15,000,  it  afterwards  dwindled  down  to 
8,500,  at  which  figure  it  stood  in  1837.  Since  then 
it  has  gradually  risen  to  its  present  number  of 
about  14,650,  of  whom  60  per  cent,  are  colored 
persons. 

Slavery,  introduced  in  the  early  colonial  days, 
was  abolished  in  1834,  Bermuda  being  the  first 
colony  to  advocate  immediate  rather  than  gradual 
emancipation.  The  laws  recognized  both  Indian 
and  Negro  slavery,  and,  to  a certain  extent,  also 
white,  for  many  of  the  early  white  settlers  were 
bondmen,  and  the  child  of  a debtor  could  be  sold 
at  his  fathers  death  and  held  as  bondman  until  the 
debt  was  paid.  There  never  was  any  large  plan- 
tations here  as  in  the  southern  states,  and  the  in- 
stitution was  undoubtedly  a milder  form  than  in  the 
states.  The  more  intelligent,  learned  trades,  or 
followed  the  sea,  and  many  could  read  and  write. 
The  importation  of  Negroes  from  Africa  ceased  a 
long  time  before  the  abolition  of  slavery,  this,  to- 
gether with  the  admixture  of  the  Indian  with  the 
Negro,  may  account  for  the  improved  type  of 
physiognomy  one  encounters  here. 

The  faces  of  some  are  fine,  and  many  of  the 
women  are  really  pretty.  They  are  polite,  about 
as  well  dressed  as  anybody,  attend  all  the  churches 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


63 


and  are  interested  in  the  schools,  have  their  own 
secret  and  benevolent  societies  and  are  just  as  im- 
provident and  lazy  here  as  elsewhere.  If  they 
have  any  money,  work  is  uninteresting  to  them  ; 
when  utterly  destitute,  they  are  ready  to  improve 
their  finances,  but  when  pay  day  comes  they  are 
quite  apt  to  retire  from  business,  and  spend  their 
earnings,  running  the  risk  of  again  finding  employ- 
ment, and  most  of  them  live  in  this  make-shift  way 
all  their  lives.  A strong  feeling  of  prejudice  exists 
here  against  the  colored  people,  the  same  as  in  the 
states.  There  is  no  place  that  the  writer  has  ever 
visited,  either  in  the  Southern  States,  West  Indies 
or  South  America,  where  the  colored  race  has 
made  the  progress  in  civilization,  or  have  attained 
as  high  a state  of  development,  as  they  have  on 
these  islands.  The  Bermudians  pride  themselves 
on  the  fact  that  there  are  no  beggars,  or  any  such 
thing  as  pauperism  here,  there  may  be  poverty  in 
Bermuda,  but  squalor  or  absolute  want  does  not 
exist  there,  and  one  of  the  first  things  that  strikes 
the  visitor  is  the  appearance  of  ease  and  well-to-do 
comfort  that  pervades  the  islands.  Instead  of  the 
tumble-down  shanties  that  deform  and  defile  the 
rest  of  the  world,  here  the  poorest  Negro  appears 
to  dwell  in  marble  halls.  The  houses  of  the  rich- 
est and  the  poorest  are  built  of  the  same  material, 
a snow  white  stone  of  coral  formation,  which  un- 
derlies every  foot  of  soil  on  the  islands.  When 
first  quarried,  it  is  so  soft  that  it  is  cut  up  into 
blocks  with  a hand  saw,  for  it  cuts  easier  than 


64 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


wood.  It  hardens  when  it  is  exposed  to  the  air, 
and  is  so  durable  that  a house  built  of  it  will  last 
for  centuries.  There  is  no  rubbish,  dirt,  mud  or 
dust  here,  and  together  with  the  well-kept  grounds, 
it  gives  an  impression  of  affluence  and  elegance 
that  is  not  seen  elsewhere. 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

Life  is  not  nearly  as  dull  in  Bermuda,  as  might 
be  supposed,  there  are  plenty  of  out-door  amuse- 
ments, driving,  rowing,  yachting,  cricket,  croquet, 
dinner  parties  and  balls  enliven  the  time,  especially 
in  the  winter.  As  Bermuda  is  a British  Army  and 
Navy  Station,  it  has  a society  remarkably  good, 
superior  to  what  may  be  found  in  any  other  winter 
resort.  There  are  usually  two  regiments  stationed 
here,  and  in  the  winter  season  it  is  the  station  for 
the  North  American  fleet,  this  gives  a certain  tone 
to  society.  The  officers  of  the  army  and  navy, 
church  and  state  have  led  a life  of  so  much  variety 
and  action,  that  talking  with  them  is  like  a chap- 
ter in  a fascinating  novel,  so  full  are  they  of  incidents 
and  adventures  they  have  encountered  in  their 
varied  experiences  all  over  the  world.  Equally  at 
home  in  courts  and  camps,  they  have  served  their 
country  in  the  chair  of  state,  as  well  as  on  the  field 
of  battle.  Many  of  them  have  been  in  every  coun- 
try on  the  globe,  and  have  seen  foreign  life  under 
its  best  aspects.  On  the  sands  of  Africa,  on  the 
burning  plains  of  India,  on  the  bloody  fields  of 


American  Consul’s  Residence. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


67 


Russia,  Turkey  and  Egypt,  they  were  known  as 
men  who  never  flinched  in  danger,  but  were  ever 
ready  to  lay  down  their  lives  at  their  country’s  call. 
Meeting  such  people  here  is  one  of  the  charms  ot 
Bermudian  society. 

Strangers  bringing  letters  of  introduction  will 
meet  with  ample  attention  and  visitors  generally 
will  be  treated  with  every  courtesy.  Some  of  the 
most  lovely  and  desirable  residences  on  the  island 
are  owned  and  occupied  by  Americans.  At 
“Fairy  Land”  resides  General  Hastings,  formerly 
of  the  U.  S.  Army,  who  was  severely  wounded 
in  the  late  civil  war.  Mrs.  Hastings  is  a neice 
of  ex-President  Hayes ; they  are  also  very 
hospitable  and  kind  in  entertaining  visitors.  If  the 
moon  and  tide  are  right,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sights  that  can  be  imagined  is  presented  at  Fairy 
Land.  You  row  into  little  coves,  then  into  what 
seems  to  be  lakes,  then  around  islands  into  inlets, 
where  in  the  mangroves,  every  leaf  glistening  in 
the  moonlight,  you  can  almost  see  the  fairies 
dancing. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  settlement,  the  clergy 
seemed  to  have  exercised  considerable  social  influ- 
ence in  the  colony,  but  the  action  of  some  of  them 
later  on,  of  disavowing  their  allegiance  to  the 
Church  of  England,  throwing  in  their  influence 
with  the  Puritan  party,  and  conducting  themselves 
with  intolerence  toward  the  people  caused  the 
little  community  to  be  convulsed,  and  for  some 
years,  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century, 
society  here  was  much  embittered  by  sectarian 
difference. 


68 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Many  more  Americans  would  probably  come 
here  to  reside  if  they  were  allowed  to  purchase 
real  estate,  but  on  this  matter  the  government  is 
very  strict.  No  alien  can  own  or  inherit  real  estate 
in  Bermuda,  and  Americans  seem  to  have  an 
antipathy  against  being  naturalized. 

The  governor  has  a reception  every  Wednesday 
at  the  government  house.  Mount  Langton,  his  res- 
idence. The  learned  judge,  the  jovial  marine,  the 
sedate  parson,  and  the  doughty  colonel  all  mingle 
here.  The  conversation  may,  or  may  not,  be  in- 
different ; you  may  hear  the  household  gossip,  or 
talk  about  India  during  the  rebellion,  about  China, 
the  scenery  of  Jamaica,  the  gay  life  at  Malta,  or 
of  dear  old  England.  There  may  be  music  from 
the  regimental  band,  and  so  the  time  passes  until 
refreshments  are  announced,  which  are  served  in 
the  pretty  dining  room  overlooking  the  sea. 

As  the  number  of  visitors  increase,  it  cannot  be 
expected,  as  a rule,  that  they  will  receive  the  same 
special  attention,  which  the  earlier  visitors  to  Ber- 
muda have  had,  when  the  number  of  tourists  were 
much  smaller. 


GOVERNMENT. 

Since  1685,  at  which  time  the  charter  of  the 
company  expired,  and  the  proprietory  form  of  gov- 
ernment ceased,  Bermuda  has  been  a crown  col- 
ony. The  government  is  administered  by  a gover- 
nor, council  and  house  of  assembly.  From  the 


Governor’s  Residence,  Mount  Langton. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


71 


fact  that  Bermuda  occupies  such  an  important  place 
as  a military  and  naval  station,  being  second  only 
to  Malta,  it  is  deemed  advisable  to  fill  the  office 
with  a man  sufficiently  conversant  with  military 
affairs,  to  command  any  land  forces  which  may  be 
stationed  here.  Bermuda  is  so  absolutely  isolated 
that  exigencies  are  liable  to  arise  in  which  the 
action  of  the  governor  may  be  of  the  greatest 

political  significance ; hence  the  office  demands  a 
man  of  varied  talent.  The  governor  acts  so  large- 
ly on  his  own  responsibility,  that  he  has  the  right  of 
veto,  and  no  bill  can  pass  the  assembly  without 
his  consent.  The  governor  is  appointed  by  the 
Crown,  and  is  now  usually  a general  officer  of  the 
Royal  Artillery  or  of  the  Royal  Engineers.  He  is 
paid  mainly  by  the  Imperial  Government,  the  col- 
ony contributing  only  a small  amount  towards  his 
salary.  He  holds  office  for  six  years.  The  coun- 
cil is  composed  of  ten  members,  appointed  by  the 
Imperial  Government  for  life.  The  present  house 
of  assembly  is  an  elected  body  of  thirty-six  mem- 
bers. Bermuda  is  divided  into  nine  tribes  or  par- 
ishes, from  each  of  which  four  representatives  are 
sent  to  the  assembly. 

The  opinions  of  an  impecunious  man  are  regarded 
as  politically  worthless,  and  he  is  not  therefore  en- 
titled to  the  ballot,  until  he  owns  real  estate  worth 
£6o.  If  he  aspires  to  be  an  assemblyman  he 
must  possess  four  times  that  amount  in  real  estate. 
The  colored  people  have  the  same  civil  rights  as  the 


72 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


whites,  and  although  they  outnumber  the  whites 
two  to  one,  yet  there  are  not  one-third  as  many 
colored  voters  as  white.  It  is  the  property  quali- 
fication in  the  Bermudian  form  of  government  that 
is  most  admired  by  American  visitors,  that  come 
from  states  that  are  under  Ring  and  Boss  rule,  the 
result  of  universal  suffrage. 

The  assembly  usually  convenes  on  alternate  days 
in  summer.  The  opening  is  quite  an  affair.  The 
governor,  dressed  in  uniform,  makes  his  speech,  the 
different  officials  appear  in  their  uniforms,  and  the 
soldiers  enliven  the  scene. 


EDUCATION. 

One  of  the  greatest  needs  of  Bermuda  is  a good 
system  of  public  schools  and  trained  teachers.  All 
the  educational  work  is  done  by  a few  earnest  peo- 
ple whose  labors  are  unappreciated  and  poorly  re- 
warded. There  is  an  annual  grant  provided  by 
the  assembly  of  £1,200,  an  inspector  of  schools 
whose  whole  time  is  devoted  to  the  duties  of  his 
office,  and  a local  board  of  education.  Most  of 
the  pupils  pay  a tuition  fee  of  6d.  per  week,  though 
no  child  would  be  excluded  if  unable  to  do  so,  for 
education  is  compulsory.  The  public  schools  are 
almost  wholly  attended  by  colored  children.  The 
antagonism  of  races  is  very  strong  ; the  whites 
absolutely  refuse  to  attend  the  same  school 
with  the  blacks,  where  the  latter  would  be  in  a 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


73 


decided  majority.  Those  who  can  aflbrd  it  hire 
private  tutors  or  send  their  children  abroad  to 
be  educated. 


RELIGION. 

The  Episcopal  is  the  established  church  here, 
and  more  than  one-half  of  the  population  are  of 
that  denomination  : they  have  nine  parish  churches 
and  two  chapels  of  ease.  There  are  one  Roman 
Catholic,  two  Presbyterian,  nine  Wesleyan,  one 
Methodist  Episcopal  and  one  Reformed  Episcopal 
chapels.  According  to  the  census,  taken  in  i88i, 
the  religious  professions  of  the  inhabitants  are  as 
follows : Church  of  England,  10,003  5 Wesleyan, 
1,672;  Methodist  Episcopal,  752;  Roman  Catholic, 
391  ; Reformed  Episcopal,  208. 

The  Bermudians  are  a church-going  people,  and 
all  the  churches  are  well  attended.  The  general 
appearance  of  the  congregation  is  not  unlike  that 
of  a New  England  country  audience,  with  faces  a 
trifle  less  care-worn.  The  preaching  is  peculiary 
simple,  with  no  suggestion  of  sensationalism  or 
radicalism  in  it. 

The  churches  are  very  plain,  built  generally  in 
the  form  of  a cross,  surrounded  by  the  church-yard 
with  its  dead.  The  oldest  church  is  St.  Peters,  at 
St.  George’s,  occupying  a commanding  site  in  the 
old  church  yard.  There  are  several  handsome 
memorial  mural  tablets.  The  communion  plate  of 
massive  silver  was  presented  by  King  William  III. 


74 


S TAJIK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


in  1684,  and  the  silver  christening  basin  was  the 
gift  of  Governor  Wm.  Browne,  a loyalist  refugee 
from  Salem,  Massachusetts.  The  new  church  is 
being  built  on  the  Government  House  grounds. 
The  style  is  early  English,  with  a tower  rising  in 
the  intersection  of  nave,  transept  and  chancel. 

Trinity  Church  of  Hamilton,  known  as  the 
Cathedral  or  “chapel  of  ease,”  was  very  beauti- 
ful in  all  its  parts,  and  thorough  in  all  its  details,  it 
contained  several  beautiful  memorial  windows,  com- 
posed of  stained  glass ; it  was  by  far  the  finest 
building  on  the  islands,  and  would  have  been  con- 
sidered an  ornament  to  any  city.  It  was  erected  at 
a cost  of  £12,000  in  1850,  and  destroyed  by  fire 
early  in  the  morning  of  Sunday,  Januar}^  27,  1884. 
It  was  supposed  to  have  been  the  dastardly  work  of 
some  miscreant,  but  what  object  could  have  been 
gained  by  perpetrating  such  an  outrage  it  is  hard 
to  tell.  A new  cathedral  is  now  being  built  on  the 
site  of  the  old  one. 


MILITARY  AND  NAVAL. 

Bermuda  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  Atlantic, 
singularly  and  peculiarly  situated  by  nature.  En- 
circling the  islands  is  a chain  of  coral  reefs  and 
sunken  rocks,  through  which  is  only  a limited  num- 
ber of  navigable  openings,  and  these  are  intricate 
and  dangerous  unless  buoyed  and  traversed  un- 
der the  guidance  of  experienced  pilots.  These 


Ruins  Trinity  Cuukch 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


71 


natural  defences,  are  supplemented  by  heavily 
armed  forts  and  batteries,  at  suitable  points,  which 
command  the  entrances  through  the  reefs,  and  all 
the  principal  channels.  In  case  of  necessity,  all 
buoys  would  be  removed,  and  the  channels  lined 
with  torpedos,  of  which  there  are  large  quantities 
at  hand,  to  be  used  as  the  case  required.  This 
7uakes  of  Bermuda  a naturally  impregnable  fortress, 
one  of  Englands  most  powerful  strongholds,  sec- 
ond only  to  Gibralter,  in  being  the  strongest  forti- 
fied place  in  the  world.  A stranger  coming  here 
wonders  why  this  speck  of  land  in  the  midst  of  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  should  require  a fort  on  every  ex- 
posed point,  why  there  should  be  batteries  and 
martello  towers  at  every  turn,  and  why  red-coats 
and  marines  should  meet  you  at  every  corner. 
But  it  should  be  remembered,  that  this  is  the  ren- 
dezvous for  the  British  fleet,  in  all  these  waters, 
and  here  vast  quantities  of  arms  and  ammunition 
are  stored.  The  importance  of  Bermuda,  as  a 
British  possession,  is  irrespective  of  its  dimensions  or 
commercial  relations,  for,  situated  as  these  islands 
are,  being  within  two  days  sail  of  any  of  the  ports 
on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  United  States,  and 
about  midway  between  the  British  possessions  in  the 
West  Indies  and  North  America,  it  cannot  be 
questioned,  but  that,  in  case  of  a war  with  the 
United  States,  Englands  strong  position  here  would 
give  her  an  immense  advantage,  for  these  islands 
would  be  of  the  greatest  importance,  as  a base  of 
naval  operation  against  that  country. 


78 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


According  to  the  earliest  records,  great  attention 
has  been  given  to  the  defences  of  these  islands, 
from  the  date  of  the  first  settlement  to  the  present 
time. 

The  standing  orders  of  the  Bermuda  Company, 
constituted  the  whole  male  population  of  the  islands 
a militia,  for  the  defence  of  the  place,  with  the 
governor  as  captain  general.  After  the  expiration 
of  the  company’s  charter,  a militia  act  was  passed 
by  the  colonial  legislature,  ordering  that  every  male 
inhabitant,  between  the  ages  of  15  and  60  years, 
should  do  military  service.  The  militia  consisted 
of  nine  companies,  to  which,  in  1707,  a troop  of 
horse  was  added. 

The  important  nature  of  the  fort  and  batteries 
erected  immediately  after  the  settlement  of  these 
islands,  can  be  seen  by  referring  to  the  engravings 
of  the  Bermudas,  as  shown  in  Captain  John 
Smith’s  “General  Historie  of  Virginia,  New  Eng- 
land and  the  Summer  Ils,”  published  in  1624, 
a reproduction  of  which  we  have  inserted  in  this 
work.  The  forts  and  batteries  were  erected, 
manned  and  provid  d with  munition  of  war  by  the 
early  settlers,  in  order  to  protect  themselves  from 
the  Spaniards,  pirates  and  buccaneers  who  abound- 
ed in  these  seas  at  that  time. 

It  appears  that  it  was  not  till  after  the  American 
revolution  that  the  British  Government  discovered 
the  great  strategic  importance  of  these  islands.  As 
a matter  of  fact,  it  was  the  loss  of  her  thirteen 
American  colonies  that  enhanced  their  value  as  a 


Thk  Great  Floating  Dock. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


81 


strong  military  and  naval  position.  Mention  is 
made  of  the  presence  of  the  Royal  Artillery  in 
1783,  and  in  1797  seven  companies  of  the  47th  regi- 
ment arrived  from  New  Providence,  and  since  that 
time  Bermuda  has  been  garrisoned  by  regular 
troops.  It  was  at  the  close  of  the  civil  war  in  Amer- 
ica, that  the  Imperial  Government  made  the  largest 
expenditures  on  the  military  defences.  It  was  then 
that  the  present  system  of  elaborate  fortifications, 
of  such  immense  strength  that  there  is  nothing 
equal  to  them  out  of  England,  was  commenced, 
and  Bermuda,  hitherto  attached  to  the  Halifax  com- 
mand, was  erected  into  a separate  and  independent 
one. 

There  are  commodious  barracks  for  the  troops 
at  St.  George’s,  and  an  airy,  convenient  camp  at 
Prospect  Hill,  a high  commanding  position  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  the  island,  near  Hamilton.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  headquarter  stations  of  Prospect  and 
St.  George’s,  there  are  detachments  of  troops  at 
Ireland  Islands,  Boaz  and  other  points,  and  a rifle 
range  at  Warwick. 

In  1794  Captain  Hurd  reported  to  Admiral  Mur- 
ray the  importance  of  Bermuda  as  a naval  station, 
this  fact  was  recognized,  and  the  preliminary  oper- 
ations for  the  establishment  of  a dock-yard  were 
commenced  in  January,  1810,  on  Ireland  Island. 
Skilled  artisans  were  despatched  from  England  to 
direct  and  superintend  the  slave  labor,  by  which 
the  work  was  to  be  done.  In  1842  it  was  decided 
to  substitute  convict  labor  in  these  operations,  and 


82 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


three  hundred  convicts  were  sent  out  from  England 
as  a commencement ; these  were  gradually  increased 
by  fresh  arrivals  until,  in  1848,  they  numbered  over 
1,500.  They  were  distributed  in  hulks,  in  the  Cam- 
ber of  the  dock-yard,  and  in  prisons  erected  on  the 
adjoining  island  of  Boaz,  now  used  as  barracks. 

In  1861,  it  was  determined  to  abolish  the  system, 
and  successive  drafts  were  sent  to  Australia  and 
England.  The  last  in  March, ' 1863,  closed  the 
convict  period  in  the  islands. 

From  first  to  last  over  9,000  convicts  arrived  in 
the  colony,  and  above  2,000  of  them  died,  the  yel- 
low fever  epidemic  of  1853  falling  heavily  on  the 
convict  establishment. 

Ireland  Island  contains  an  important  arsenal 
and  a commodious  “Camber”  or  open  basin, 
formed  by  the  erection  of  a breakwater,  which 
accommodates  a large  number  of  vessels  along  the 
wharfs. 

There  is  a steam  factory  of  the  first  class,  and 
every  facility  exists  for  repairing  boats  and  ships  of  ■ 
the  largest  size.  The  fortifications  are  extensive  \ 

and  formidable,  and  under  existing  conditions  of 
attack  may  be  considered  impregnable.  A num-  ^ 

ber  of  men-of-war,  including  the  flag  ship  of  the  | 

North  American  fleet,  rendezvous  here  every  win-  ' 

ter.  Exclusively  of  these  is  a captain,  superintend-  ^ 

ent  and  a staff'  of  naval  employes,  including  about  | 

two  hundred  seamen,  one  hundred  and  fifty  ma- 
rines and  nearly  eight  hundred  dock-yard  laborers. 

This  important  position  required  only  the  addition 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


83 


of  the  famous  floating  dock  to  render  it  complete. 
It  was  launched  in  Sheerness  in  1868,  and  was 
towed  across  the  Atlantic  and  brought  into  its 
present  position  after  an  exciting  vo}"age  of  fifty- 
six  days. 

It  is  381  feet  long,  124  feet  broad  and  74  feet 
deep,  with  forty-eight  water  tight  compartments. 
This  enormous  structure  is  said  to  be  the  largest  of 
its  kind  in  the  world,  and  will  receive  the  largest 
iron-clad  built.  It  weighs  over  8,200  tons,  draws 
when  light  ii  feet  of  water,  and  when  sunk  50  feet; 
it  took  two  years  to  build,  and  cost  about  a quarter 
of  a million  sterling.  There  is  every  facility  for 
the  reception  and  rapid  repair  of  vessels,  and  for 
the  dock  itself  to  be  hauled  over  for  cleaning  and 
repairs. 

One  of  the  main  objects  of  the  defence  of  the 
islands  is  the  protection  of  this  valuable  dock-yard ; 
and  the  approaches  to  it  are  guarded  by  numerous 
heavily-armed  forts  and  batteries.  In  addition 
to  these  forts  and  batteries  which  are  built  and 
fixed  according  to  an  elaborate  plan,  there  is 
a large  submarine  mining  establishment,  by  which 
torpedoes  and  other  subsidiary  means  of  defence 
can  be  put  down  at  short  notice,  and  movable  road 
batteries  are  prepared  to  supplement  the  stationary 
defences,  and  to  command  points  where  landing  by 
boats  might  be  attempted  on  the  south  side  of  the 
island.  No  foreign  power  has  ever  conquered 
these  islands,  and  probably  never  will  as  long  as 
England  remains  mistress  of  the  seas. 


84 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


GEOLOGY. 

Bermuda,  geologically  .speaking,  is  an  “ atoll,”  a 
ring  of  coral  reefs  surrounding  a central  lagoon. 
This  coral  structure  is  of  a recent  formation,  and 
rests  on  the  top  of  a submarine  mountain.  What 
the  basis  on  which  the  reefs  rests  may  be,  there  is 
no  means  of  telling ; in  fact  its  having  the  form  of 
an  atoll  precludes  the  possibility  of  doing  so.  There 
seems  but  little  doubt,  according  to  competent  au- 
thorities, that  the  atoll  form  is  due  to  the  entire  dis- 
appearance by  subsidence  of  the  island  round  which 
the  reef  .was  originally  formed.  The  abruptness 
and  isolation  of  this  peak,  which  runs  up  a solitary 
cone  from  the  level  bed  of  the  Atlantic  to  a height 
of  about  three  miles,  or  about  equal  to  that  of  Mont 
Blanc,  is  certainly  very  unusual,  and  the  most  rea- 
sonable theory  is  that  the  kernel  is  a volcanic  moun- 
tain, comparable  in  character  with  Pico  in  the 
Azores  or  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe.  It  would  appear 
that  the  outer  edge  of  the  mountain  summit,  now 
represented  by  the  ring  of  coral  reefs,  was  among 
the  first  portion  to  attract  and  arrest  the  wandering 
zoophytes  of  the  surrounding  currents. 

The  coral  barriers  thus  reared  are  much  the  same 
as  those  of  similar  reefs  in  the  Pacific,  and  is  the  farth- 
est from  the  equator  of  any  coral  island  in  the  world, 
being  almost  on  the  limit  of  the  region  of  reef  build- 
ing corals.  The  general  form  and  position  of  the 
reef  and  its  islets  are  shown  on  the  accompanying 
map,  and,  although  an  elevated  atoll,  the  emerged 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


85 


land,  about  fifteen  miles  in  length,  is  confined  to  the 
side  facing  southeast. 

The  Bermuda  Islands,  in  common  with  most  other 
coral  islands,  are  formed  by  the  raising  of  the 
weather  edge  of  the  reef  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


BERMUDA. 


This  appears  to  be  accomplished,  in  the  first  place, 
by  the  agency  of  the  waves  alone,  for  the  coral 
rock  is  never  formed  far  out  of  water,  as  the  insect 
in  a few  minutes  of  exposure  to  the  air  melts  into 
slime.  The  beach  is  first  formed  on  the  reef  in  the 
following  manner.  Fragments  of  coral  and  shell 
fish,  many  of  them  with  the  inherent  power  of  in- 
creasing and  cementing  themselves  together  through 
the  growth  of  the  living  things  which  invest  them, 
are  piled  upon  one  another  until  they  reach  the 
highest  point  accessable  to  the  sea  in  storms,  then 
every  breaker  of  the  eternal  surf  grinds  the  coral 
and  dead  shells  into  a fine  coral  sand,  and  the 
moment  the  ridge  appears  above  water,  a beach  of 


86 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


coralline  sand  is  formed.  The  top  of  the  beach 
dries  at  low  water,  and  the  sand  is  blown  on,  first 
among  the  crevices  of  the  breakwater  already 
formed,  which  it  widens  and  strengthens,  and  then 
over  the  breakwater  to  the  ledges  and  reefs  beyond, 
which  it  tends  to  raise  to  the  surface.  In  this  way, 
in  all  coral  seas,  islands  have  a tendency  to  form 
along  the  windward  edges  of  annular  reefs.  The 
windv/ard  island  then  forms  a shelter  to  the  lee- 
ward portion  of  the  rixig,  depriving  it  of  the  main 
source  of  its  elevation,  the  piling  up  of  fragments  by 
the  waves ; so  that  on  the  leeward  side  we  usually 
■ have  more  or  less  of  the  reef  remaining  submerged, 
and  any  passages  of  communication  between  the 
' central  lagoon  and  the  outer  sea. 

There  is  a wonderful  “sand-glacier”  at  Elbow 
Bay  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  main  island,  where 
these  processes  can  actually  be  observed.  The 
sand  has  entirely  filled  up  a valley,  and  is  steadily 
progressing  inland  in  a mass  about  25  feet  thick. 
The  glacis  is  very  regular,  and  on  its  path  upward 
from  the  beach,  this  “glacier”  has  overwhelmed  a 
wood  of  cedars  and  also  a house,  all  that  now  re- 
mains of  it  is  the  top  of  one  of  the  chimneys  pro- 
jecting above  the  white  sand  like  a tombstone,  with 
a great  bush  of  oleanders  drooping  over  it. 

The  prevailing  wind  which  is  from  the  south-west  • 
was  an  important  factor  in  the  advance  and  arrange- 
ment of  the  atoms  of  which  these  islands  are 
formed,  continually  sweeping  up  fresh  deposits  of 
the  coralline  sand,  drying  it  and  blowing  it  onwards 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


87 


in  drifts  or  sand  glaciers.  Thus  the  southern 
boundaries  of  the  land  were  extended,  while  the 
northern  margins,  being  to  leeward  and  not  so  lib- 
erally supplied,  wore  away,  subsided  and  retreated, 
until  at  the  present  time  as  much  as  ten  miles  of 


CHIMNEY  OF  A HOUSE  BURIED  IN  SAND. 


water  at  some  points  intervene  between  the  reef  and 
the  existing  coast  line.  The  north  rock  composed 
of  a harder  material  stands  as  a proof  of  the  former 
extent  of  dry  land  to  the  northward  of  the  lagoon. 
It  is  the  sole  surviving  monument  of  a Bermuda 
which  has  ceased  to  exist,  and  is  a group  of 
pinacles,  the  loftiest  only  15  feet  high,  which  rises 


88 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


from  the  outer  reef  at  about  eight  miles  distant  from 
the  land,  where,  having  been  buffeted  by  the  storms 
of  countless  ages,  it  is  slowly  yielding  to  the  doom 
of  inevitable  disintegration. 

Bermuda  is,  as  we  have  shown,  composed  entirely 
of  calcarious  rocks  derived  from  broken  coral  and 


NORTH  ROCK. 


shells.  These  rocks  vary  in  texture  from  loose  sand 
to  compact  limestone,  the  different  varieties  are  ir- 
regularly associated  and  without  any  order  of  super- 
position. 

The  process  by  which  free  coral  sand  is  converted 
into  limestone  is  very  simple,  and  involves  no  great 
lapse  of  time.  The  sand  consists  almost  entirely  of 
carbonate  of  lime,  and  is  easily  soluble  in  water 
containing  carbonic  acid,  such  as  rain  water,  which 
derives  the  acid  from  the  atmosphere.  The  rain 
falls  upon  the  surface  of  the  sand,  takes  up  a little 
lime  in  the  form  of  a bicarbonate,  and  then,  as  it 
sinks  in,  it  loses  the  carbonic  acid  and  itself  evapo- 


CoKAl.  Sro.M.  Qi'AUK\ 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


89 


rates,  and  it  leaves  the  previously  dissolved  car- 
bonate of  lime  as  a thin  layer  of  cement,  coating 
and  uniting  together  grains  of  sand.  The  rocks 
remain  then  permeable  to  water  and  soluble,  so 
that  this  process  of  solution  and  deposition  goes  on 
constantly.  The  extreme  result  is  a marble-like 
limestone. 

There  are  no  minerals  on  these  islands  except 
what  is  contained  in  the  red  earth  which  forms  the 
surface  soil ; this  is  composed  of  peroxide  of  iron 
and  alumina,  silica  and  some  earthy  phosphates. 
These  substances  are  to  a very  small  degree  soluble 
in  water  charged  with  carbonic  acid  ; consequently, 
after  the  gradual  removal  of  the  lime  contained  in 
the  coral  sand  by  the  rain  water,  a certain  sediment 
or  ash,  as  it  were,  is  left  behind,  extracted  by  the 
shell  forming  zoophytes  from  the  water  of  the  ocean  ; 
this  residue  amounts  to  about  one  per  cent.  This  may 
seem  a very  small  proportion,  but  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  it  represents  one  ton  in  every  hun- 
dred tons  of  material  removed  by  the  action  of 
water  and  the  atmosphere ; and  the  evidence  of 
denudation  on  a large  scale,  are  every  where  so 
marked,  that  even  were  some  portion  of  this  one 
per  cent,  residue  further  altered  and  washed  away 
enough  might  be  left  to  account  fully  for  the  whole 
of  the  red  earth. 

It  forms  a very  fertile  soil  and  when  treated  with 
nitrogenous  manure,  such  as  that  from  the  farm 
yard,  will  grow  almost  any  thing,  only  clay  is 
wanted  to  make  the  soil  more  retentive  of  moisture. 


90 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


This  red  earth  mixed  with  vegetable  soils  and  de- 
cayed wood,  is  frequently  found  in  quarries  at  a 
depth  of  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet  beneath  the  solid 
limestone ; this  is  accounted  for  by  the  sand  glacier 
that  has  crept  over  it,  the  advancing  waves  of  sand 
having  enveloped  in  their  course  from  time  to  time 
intervening  objects,  and  becoming  in  its  turn  hard- 
ened over  them. 

Vegetable  soil  has  also  been  found  at  a great 
depth  below  the  level  of  tide  water.  This  is  a direct 
evidence  of  subsidence,  and  the  most  satisfactory 
proof  was  given  when  the  bed  was  prepared  for  the 
great  floating  dock  at  Ireland  Island,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  make  an  excavation  in  the  Camber  extend- 
ing to  a depth  of  fifty  feet  below  low  water.  First 
they  came  in  the  cutting  of  twenty-five  feet 
below  the  surface,  to  a bed  of  calcarious  mud, 
five  feet  thick,  forming  the  floor  of  the  basin, 
next  to  loose  beds,  twenty  feet  thick,  of  coral 
sand  mixed  with  shells  forming  a freestone,  be- 
neath this  at  a depth  of  forty-five  feet  from,  low 
water  mark,  there  is  a bed  of  a kind  of  peat, 
and  vegetable  soil,  containing  stumps  of  cedar  in  a 
vertical  position,  and  the  remnants  of  other  land  veg- 
etation with  the  remains  of  several  birds ; the  peat 
was  ascertained  by  boring  to  lie  upon  the  ordinary 
hard  base  rocks.  Instances  have  been  repeatedly 
recorded  during  the  last  half  century  of  vessels’  an- 
chors having  dragged  up  in  different  places  within 
the  barrier  reef,  and  also  at  Hamilton  and  St. 
George’s  harbors,  portions  of  cedar  trees  especially 


ENTRANCE  TO  CONVOLULUS  CAVE. 


92 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  roots  having  the  appearance  of  being  torn  from 
their  original  positions. 

About  the  year  1869,  submarine  blasting  was 
carried  on  at  the  entrance  to  Hamilton  -harbor 
in  order  to  deepen  the  entrance  channel,  which 
revealed  the  fact  of  a cavern  existing  at  a depth  of 
over  six  fathoms,  containing  stalactites  and  red 
earth. 

Now  it  is  very  clear  that  the  peat,  cedar  stumps, 
and  vegetable  soil,  found  at  Ireland  Island,  and  the 
stalactite  cavern  and  red  earth  found  beneath  the 
harbor,  were  at  one  time  above  water,  which  in  the 
latter  case  even  if  the  cedar  trees,  grew  in  the  earth 
at  the  level  of  the  ocean,  would  raise  the  islands 
forty-two  feet  above  their  present  elevation ; suffi- 
cient to  bring  the  whole  bottom  of  the  lagoon  ex- 
tending from  the  shore  to  the.  outer  barrier  reef 
above  water. 

As  caves  are  usually  found  in  all  limestone  dis- 
tricts, Bermuda  is  not  an  exception  to  this  rule,  the 
islands  contain  many  large  vaulted  chambers,  hol- 
lowed out  of  the  rock  by  the  removal  of  its  material 
by  running  fresh  water,  or  by  the  action  of  the  sea. 
This  process  is  more  rapid  in  coral  islands  than  it 
is  where  the  rock  belongs  to  one  of  the  older  forma- 
tions. The  entrances  are  usually  small  crevices  in 
the  rock,  often  almost  masked  by  vegetation,  such 
as  is  shown  in  the  illustration  of  the  Convolvulus 
Cave,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  glorious 
mantle  of  flowers  with  which  the  entrance  is 
covered. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


93 


These  caves  are  very  curious  and  beautiful,  from 
the  roofs  innumerable  stalactites,  perfectly  white, 
often  several  yards  long,  and  coming  down  to  the 
delicacy  of  knitting  needles,  hang  in  clusters,  and 
whenever  there  are  any  continuous  cracks  in  the 
roof  or  wall,  a graceful,  soft  looking  curtain  of  white 
stalactite  falls  and  often  ends  in  deep  water.  Stal- 
agmites also  rise  up  in  pinnacles  and  fringes  through 
the  water,  which  is  so  exquisitely  still  and  clear 
that  it  is  somtimes  difficult  to  tell  where  the  marble 
tracery  ended  and  its  reflected  image  began. 


HAMILTON. 

Visitors  on  landing  at  Hamilton  will  find  it  to  their 
advantage  to  secure  board  and  lodgings  at  that 
place,  for  it  is  the  most  central  location  on  the 
islands,  and  excursions  can  be  made  from  there  to 
any  part  of  the  islands  and  return  the  same  day. 

There  are  two  towns  in  Bermuda,  Hamilton  and 
St.  George’s,  the  former  is  the  capital  and  principal 
town,  and  contains  about  2,000  inhabitants.  It  is 
laid  out  quite  regularly,  and  is  situated  on  the 
southerly  side  of  hilly  land  facing  Hamilton  Har- 
bor. It  is  named  after  Governor  Hamilton,  under 
whom  the  change  of  the  seat  of  government  from 
St.  George’s  was  determined  in  1793.  The  site  was 
purchased,  and  the  corporation  had  vested  in  them 
the  right  of  selling  and  conveying  town  lots.  The 
assembly  met  at  Hamilton,  Jan.  21,  1815.  The 
water  privileges  of  the  corporation  form  its  chief 


94 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


source  of  revenue.  The  main  frontage  has  been 
lined  with  masonry,  and  three  large  iron  sheds 
erected,  with  tanks  and  brick  floor,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  vessels  landing  their  freight.  Front 
street  contains  the  principal  places  of  business,  and 
as  its  name  would  signify  fronts  the  harbor.  There 


INDIA  RUBBER  TREE. 

are  several  substantial  residences  and  public  build- 
ings in  Hamilton,  such  as  the  “ Sessions  House,” 
situated  on  a hill  east  of  Trinity  Church,  having 
on  its  basement  floor  the  Court  House,  in  which  the 
assizes  are  held,  and  above,  the  House  of  Assem- 
bly. Below  the  hill  on  which  the  Session’s  House 
stands  is  the  “ Public  Buildings,”  erected  in  1839. 


Hamilton 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


97 


Here  is  the  ‘‘Custom  House,”  “Colonial  Office,” 
“ Public  Library,”  “ Council  Chamber,”  and  on  the 
upper  landing  is  a small  museum  containing  natural 
history  specimens,  etc. 

The  small  area  in  which  the  public  building  stands 
is  tastefully  planted  with  trees,  one  of  which,  a 
cedar,  was  planted  by  Prince  Alfred  in  1862. 
The  memorial  obelisk  to  Governor  Reid  also  stands 
near. 

There  are  many  private  gardens  in  the  vicinity  of 
Hamilton  that  are  exquisitely  laid  out,  and  kept  in 
perfect  order,  some  of  them  contain  magnificent 
specimens  of  the  India  Rubber  tree,  one  very  near 
the  Hamilton  House  can  be  seen  that  was  sent  here 
thirty-five  years  ago  from  Essequebo ; it  is  now 
grown  to  be  an  enormous  tree,  the  trunk  twelve  feet 
in  circumference,  running  up  three  or  four  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  then  dividing  into  five  large  limbs, 
rising  in  all  nearly  fifty  feet  from  the  ground,  and 
covering  with  its  dense  shade  space  all  around  of 
at  least  seventy  feet.  A good  idea  of  the  tree  can 
be  formed  trom  the  accompanying  illustration. 


MOUNT  LANGTON. 

There  are  several  interesting  localities  within  easy 
walking  distance  of  Hamilton,  which  will  repay 
the  trouble  taken  in  reaching  them.  The  roads 
leading  from  Hamilton  into  the  country  are  exceed- 
ingly  picturesque,  and  are  bordered  by  many  fine 


98 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


estates.  Cedar  avenue,  lined  on  each  side  with 
cedar  trees,  fringes  Victoria  Park,  in  which  are 
many  beautiful  specimens  of  tropical  plants.  Going 
north  by  way  of  Cedar  avenue  you  pass  the  Ewing 
estate,  the  Parish  church,  the  Hall  property,  and 
Mount  Wyndham,  you  then  reach  Mount  Langton, 
the  governor’s  residence.  A fine  view  can  be  ob- 
tained from  here  of  the  sea  coast  all  along  the  north 
shore  of  the  island  from  St.  George’s  to  Ireland  Island, 
also  an  extensive  view  to  the  southward  embracing 
the  town  of  Hamilton,  Pembroke  Marsh  and  the 
waters  of  the  Great  sound  studded  with  islands  of 
every  size ; while  far  in  the  distance  the  hills  of 
Port  Royal,  with  the  light-house  crowning  the  sum- 
mit of  the  highest,  melt  into  the  blue  haze  of  the 
distant  horizon. 

The  grounds  of  Mount  Langton  are  fertile  and 
picturesque,  and  contain  about  seventy  acres.  The 
house  and  land  were  purchased  by  the  colony  from 
Mr.  Joseph  Stowe,  in  1814,  for  £4,800.  In  the 
garden  and  lawn  are  to  be  seen  many  beautiful 
tropical  trees,  shrubs  and  plants,  such  as  the  gru 
gru  palms,  India  rubber  trees,  bamboos,  the  wampee 
and  litchi  trees.  Most  of  these  trees  were  planted 
about  1841  by  Governor  Reid.  The  large  silk 
cotton  trees  in  the  garden  were  planted  by  Gov- 
ernor Elliott  about  1850. 

Permission  should  always  be  asked  to  visit  these 
grounds,  as  well  as  all  private  gardens,  this  priv- 
ilege is  usually  freely  granted  to  visitors,  but  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  destroy  plants  and  shrubs 


GRU  GRU  PALMS.  MOUNT  LANGTON. 


100 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


and  injure  trees  ; care  should  also  be  taken  in  cross- 
ing fields  under  crop. 

The  distance  from  the  Hamilton  House  to  Moun^ 
Langton  is  about  one  mile. 


CLARENCE  HILL. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  places  in  Bermuda  t( 
visit  is  Clarence  Hill,  the  residence  of  the  Admiral, 
distance  from  Hamilton  about  two  miles.  The 
road  from  Hamilton  is  a wild  one,  and  full  of 
variety,  with  most  charming  combinations  of  the 
woods,  country,  and  sea. 

Starting  from  Front  street,  Hamilton,  for  Clarence 
Hill  we  go  west  by  the  office  of  the  American  consulate 
and  passing  Rose  Bank  and  Long  House  to  Pitts  Bay, 
then  passing  Olive  Hill,  a part  of  the  Master’s  es- 
tate, you  come  to  Norwood,  this  estate  has  been  held 
continuously  in  the  Saltus  family,  (connected  by 
marriage  with  Norwood,  the  surveyor  of  Bermuda, 
who  lived  on  the  shore  near  the  present  bathing 
house)  till  the  death  of  Mr.  Samuel  Saltus  in  1880, 
who  bequeathed  it  to  Mr.  Henry  Darrell,  who  is 
now  greatly  improving  it.  Westfield,  opposite  Nor- 
wood, was  bequeathed  by  Mr.  Samuel  Saltus  to 
the  Parish  of  Pembroke,  for  a rectory ; adjoining 
it  is  the  Wainwright,  Leon  and  Stowe  proprietors. 
The  Wainwright  section  was  purchased  recently  by 
Mr.  Hastings,  on  which  he  erected  a large  man- 
sion, this  portion  is  kno*wn  as  Fairy  Land,  and  is 
one  of  the  first  places  that  visitors  seek  out  on  land- 


BERMUDA  GUIDE^ 


101 


PAW  PAW  TREES,  CLARENCE  HILL. 


102 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


ing  at  Bermuda,  on  account  of  its  beautiful  scenery 
and  magnificient  lily  fields,  where  more  than  one 
hundred  thousand  blossoms  can  often  be  seen  at 
one  time.  Opposite  to  Fairy  Land  the  Imperial 
Government  have  their  magazine  on  Agar’s  Island. 

The  mangroves,  from  whence  the  creek  here 
takes  its  name,  are  well  worthy  of  observation, 
they  are  a species  of  tree  that  grow  in  the  mud 
along  the  sea  shore  and  in  marshy  places,  and  are 
found  only  in  tropical  or  semi-tropical  countries,  the 
foliage  is  a dark  green,  and  from  the  branches  shoots 
droop  down  and  take  root  in  the  mud,  and  form 
new  stocks  till  they  cover  a space  of  several  hun- 
dred yards  in  circumference,  presenting  a most  pe- 
culiar appearance,  in  this  respect  it  is  similar  to  the 
banyan  tree  of  India-.  Passing  around  Mangrove 
Creek  we  arrive  at  Clarence  Hill,  situated  on  Span- 
ish Point.  The  grounds  connected  with  Admiralty 
House  are  quite  extensive  and  well  kept,  the  house 
is  plain,  but  the  attractiveness  of  the  place  is  in  its 
marine  views  and  natural  scenery.  On  a hill  side 
overlooking  the  sea,  in  a most  sequestered  spot,  is 
an  exquisite  bit  of  gardening.  Mosses,  ferns  and 
many  tropical  plants  grow  in  such  profusion  and 
grace,  peeping  from  under  rocks,  and  climbing  over 
them,  that  it  is  only  by  critical  inspection  that  you 
perceive  that  their  presence  is  due  to  cultivation. 

A very  singular  looking  tree  is  the  paw  paw, 
which  is  seen  here,  rising  up  slim  and  straight  with- 
out any  branches,  the  fruit  in  shape  like  a lemon, 
growing  directly  from  the  trunk. 


Pembroke  Church. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


103 


Near  by  is  a cave,  against  whose  outer  wall  the  sea 
IS  forever  dashing ; it  was  tunnelled  by  a former 
Admiral,  and  is  so  large  that  on  its  completion  a 
ball  was  given  in  it,  by  way  of  celebration. 

The  view  from  the  face  of  the  hill  looking  down 
to  the  extremity  of  Spanish  Point,  and  over  the 
water  to  Ireland  Island,  is  very  fine,  particularly  at 
low  tide,  when  Cobbler’s  Isle,  the  Lapstone  and  the 
Stagg’s  Rocks  rise  from  the  foaming  waters  to 
guard  the  passage  to  the  harbor  within,  these  islets 
are  honey  combed  by  caverns  and  natural  arches  of 
singular  aspect. 

On  returning  to  Hamilton,  when  half  way  along 
the  road,  if  the  visitor  will  take  a narrow  path 
which  is  seen  on  the  right  hand,  he  will  be  amply 
rewarded  for  the  break  in  his  journey,  by  suddenly 
coming  upon  some  of  the  most  charming  scenery 
in  Bermuda.  The  shore  is  here  indented  by  num- 
erous inlets  which  have  their  banks  clothed  with 
well  grown  trees  and  a verdant  carpet  of  grass  be- 
neath. The  waters  of  the  sound  come  rippling  in, 
and  if  a pleasant  westerly  wind  is  blowing,  there  is 
no  cooler  or  more  delightful  spot  to  ruralise  in  than 
“ Point  Share”  as  the  locality  is  named. 


HAMILTON  TO  ST.  GEORGE’S. 

We  will  now  suppose  that  the  visitor  is  desirous 
of  seeing  St.  George’s,  the  ancient  capital  of  Ber- 
muda, and  also  the  intervening  places  of  interest 
on  the  way  there.  The  distance  there  from  Hamih 


104 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


ton  is  about'  twelve  miles.  Carriages  with  care- 
ful drivers  can  always  be  had  at  short  notices  at  the 
livery  stables,  and  at  quite  reasonable  rates.  Con- 
veyance can  also  be  had  in  the  mail  carriage  that 
leaves  Hamilton  twice  each  day  for  St.  George’s. 

There  are  three  roads  from  Hamilton  that  con- 
verge at  the  Flatts  at  the  head  of  Hamilton  Sound, 
round  which  run  two  roads  meeting  at  the  Cause- 
way, and  thence  one  road  round  Mullet  Bay  to  St. 
George’s. 

The  North  Road  is  the  most  airy  and  easy  road 
and  affords  the  finest  view  of  the  ocean.  Leaving 
Hamilton  by  way  of  Cedar  Avenue  and  passing  by 
the  “Woodlands,”  where  there  can  be  seen  some 
fine  specimens  of  cocoanut  palms,  Pembroke  Church 
and  MountLangton,  and  the  new  government  home, 
you  enter  the  north  road,  skirting  the  seashore  all 
the  way  to  Flatt’s  Village. 


DUCKING  STOOL. 

The  first  object  of  interest  to  be  seen  on  the 
north  shore  road  is  the  “Ducking  Stool”  rock, 

which  overhangs  the 
water,  and  had  in  years 
of  yore  (when  witchcraft 
and  sorcery  were  viewed 
by  an  ignorant  and  super- 
stitious population  as  due 
offences,  only  punishable 
by  the  most  cruel  of  means)  ; an  apparatus  by 
which  the  poor  unfortunate  wretches  accused  of 


CocoANUT  Palms. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


107 


these  crimes  were  barbarously  tormented  by  a 
course  of  “ ducking  ” in  the  sea,  which  frequently 
ended  in  the  death  of  the  victims.  Hence  the 
name  which  has  always  been  borne  by  this  rock  to 
the  present  day.  The  practice  of  ducking  began 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  15th  century  and  prevailed 
until  the  early  part  of  the  present  century.  One  of 
the  most  frequent  offences  punished  by  ducking, 
was  that  of  the  common  scolds,  who  were  tied  into 
the  chair  or  stool  and  plunged  into  the  water  as  a 
punishment,  in  the  manner  as  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration. 


THE  WELLS. 

About  a mile  and  a half  beyond  the  DucKing 
Stool  on  the  road  to  the  Flatts,  there  will  be  ob- 
served on  the  right  hand,  near  the  sea  shore,  numer- 
ous wells,  these  formerly  supplied  the  navy  with 
water  before  the  large  tanks  and  water  sheds  were 
constructed  that  are  now  in  use.  These  wells  are 
sunk  to  the  high  water  level  of  the  sea  and  the 
surface  rain  water  gathering  in  them  lies  on  the 
heavier  salt  water,  mixing  only  slightly  with  it. 
The  tendency,  however,  of  the  water  in  them  to  be- 
come brackish  and  impure  has  led  to  the  general 
discontinuance  of  nearly  all  the  wells  on  the  islands. 
It  follows  from  what  has  been  said  of  the  formation 
of  these  islands  that  there  is  not  any  fresh  water 
here,  except  what  is  obtained  by  storage  of  rain 
in  tanks.  Every  house  has  one  or  more  such 
tanks,  and  the  local  law  obliges,  when  houses  are 


108 


6'  TARK  ’ 6'  ILL  US  TRA  TED 


built,  that  this  essential  reservoir  shall  be  con- 
structed. The  buildings  are  for  this  end  usually 
roofed  with  thin  slabs  of  limestone,  periodically 
whitewashed  to  correct  the  porosity  and  to  keep  the 
surface  white  and  clean.  Level  surfaces  of  ground 
on  gentle  slopes  are  also  similarily  prepared  from 
which  water  is  led  into  reservoirs.  The  water 
thus  stored  is  tolerably  pure  as  long  as  the  tanks 
are  kept  clean. 


GIBBONS  BAY. 

Just  before  reaching  Flatfs  Village  on  the  left 
hand  will  be  seen  a little  sandy  bay,  with  an  island 
beyond  joined  by  a causeway  of  large  stone  blocks 
to  the  shore.  This  is  known  as  Gibbons  Bay,  and 
will  be  found  an  excellent  place  for  collecting  shells 
and  seaweeds  at  low  water.  Crossing  the  little 
causeway  the  visitor  reaches 

GALLOWS  ISLAND, 

on  which , at  its  highest  point,  stands  a weather-worn 
pole,  this  marks  the  spot  where  a slave  was  gib- 
beted for  murdering  his  master  about  the  year  1754, 
and  still  goes  by  the  name  of  “Quashi’s  Pole.”  If 
the  visitor  be  geologically  inclined  he  will,  a few 
yards  to  the  north-west  of  the  pole,  not  far  from 
the  shore,  perceive  a mass  of  stalagmite,  which 
evidently  once  formed  the  floor  of  a cavern ; this  is 
one  of  the  many  proofs  in  regard  to  the  greater 
elevation  of  these  islands,  a matter  that  has  been 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


109 


treated  on  before  in  this  work  under  the  heading  of 
geology.  By  advancing  a short  distance  farther  we 
come  to 

FLATT’S  VILLAGE. 

In  olden  times  this  pretty  inlet  of  the  sea  pre- 
sented a different  aspect  from  what  it  does  now,  for 
the  shores,  particularly  at  the  head  of  the  harbor, 
were  lined  with  wharves  from  which  good  sized 
vessels  discharged  their  cargoes.  It  was  in  fact 
one  of  the  principal  ports  of  Bermuda  and  con- 
siderable  trade  was  carried  on  here.  Even  now 
the  extent  of  the  ruins  of  several  houses  testify 
to  their  capacity  in  former  times.  All,  however, 
now  wears  a look  of  desolation  ; the  mouldering 
walls  with  the  carved  portals  are  draped  with  the 
prickly  cactus ; while  gigantic  paw  paws  and 
plaintains  raise  their  leafy  crowns  above  the  whole. 
This  is  a central  spot  from  which  to  visit  the  love- 
ly scenery  of  this  neighborhood,  and  it  has  al- 
ways been  considered  a good  site  for  a hotel ; 
Overhanging  the  gateway  to  Mr.  Musson’s  resi- 
dence is  the  largest  mahogany  tree  in  Bermuda. 
This  tree  is  thirty  years  old,  the  trunk  seven  feet  in 
circumference,  spreading  out,  when  about  four  feet 
from  the  ground,  into  numerous  and  graceful  bran- 
ches ; it  is  nearly  flat  at  the  top  ; the  leaf  is  of  a dark 
and  glossy  green. 


no 


5 TARK^S  ILL  US TRA  TED 


HARRINGTON  SOUND, 

which  lies  north  east  of  Flatfs  Harbor,  probabl} 
possesses  in  itself-  and  its  surroundings  more  pic- 
turesque scenery  than  any  other  locality  in  the  is- 
lands. Its  surface  is  usually  calm,  owing  to  its  land- 
locked position,  and  a boating  excursion  on  its 
waters,  especially  about  the  shores  of  Trunk  Island 
will  reveal  many  submarine  wonders  to  the  eye. 
Its  northern  shore,  westward  ' of  Bailey’s  Bay 
church,  presents  a series  of  high  cliffs,  in  many 
places  quite  inaccessible,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of 
numerous  tropic  birds,  which  here,  annually,  and  in 
perfect  security  make  their  nesting  place  and  rear 
their  young.  From  the  water  the  high  cliff  known 
as  the  “Devil’s  Head’*  presents  a fine  appearance,  all 
ragged  and  torn  as  its  face  is  by  the  storms  of  many 
winters.  From  out  its  numerous  crevices  spring 
dwarf  trees  and  shrubs,  whose  only  holdfast  ap- 
pears to  be  the  solid  rock  on  which  they  grow ; 
while  circling  around  its  shattered  brow,  the  tropic 
birds  lazily  float  on  their  ambient  wings  mingling 
their  plaintive  cries  with  the  sounds  of  the  rippling 
wavelets  which  dash  on  the  rock-bound  shore  a 
hundred  feet  below. 

At  the  western  end  of  the  sound  there  is  an  out- 
let into  Flatt’s  harbor  through  which  the  tide  ebbs 
and  flows  with  great  impetus.  This  channel  has 
from  the  earliest  time  been  spanned  by  a bridge. 
A little  to  the  eastward  is  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Allen,  the  American  consul ; during  the  war  of  the 


Flai'ts’  Bridge 


■ 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


113 


rebellion  he  rendered  his  government  great  and  im- 
portant service,  and  his  berth  here  during  that 
period  was  anything  but  a bed  of  roses,  for  as  these 
islands  were  a base  from  whence  the  blockade 
runners  drew  their  supplies,  he  was  regarded  by 
that  fraternity  and  their  sympathizers  here,  in  the 
light  of  a spy  upon  their  movements.  During  the 
visit  of  the  Florida  he  was  attacked  by  some  of  the 
crew  and  nearly  killed ; so  strong  was  the  feeling 
against  him  that  he  could  not  obtain  any  other 
place  to  lodge  in  except  his  office. 

There  are  two  roads  around  Harrington  Sound, 
the  north  and  the  south  roads,  both  roads  connect 
with  the  causeway  leading  to  St.  Georges’s.  The 
north  road  is  a fine  ocean  drive  of  about  three 
miles,  passing  by  Shelly  Bay,  a cluster  of  rocks 
called  “ The  Stags,”  Crawl  Point  and  Bailey  s Bay. 
Going  by  the  south  road  around  Harrington  Sound, 
you  pass  the  fine  residences  of  Mrs.Wm.  Whitney, 
— Villa  Mount  Clair  and  Monticello, — about  a mile 
beyond  you  will  come  to  the 

DEVIL’S  HOLE, 

or  Neptune’s  Grotto,  between  which  and  the  ocean 
there  is  a subterranean  communication.  Fish  caught 
at  the  most  favorable  seasons  of  the  year  are  kept 
here  until  wanted  for  use.  There  are  many  varie- 
ties of  fish,  and  the  spectacle  is  as  pleasing  as  it  is 
novel,  and  for  years  it  has  been  one  of  the  lions  of 
Bermuda.  The  fish  pound  had  originally  been  a 


114 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


cavern,  the  roof  of  which  fell  in  before  the  advent 
of  man  on  these  islands.  Here  will  be  found  a 
stock  of  gropers  and  sundry  other  fish  which 
swim  about  and  can  be  seen  as  if  in  an  aquarium. 
The  lovely  angel  hsh,  well  named  indeed,  will  be 


THE  DEVIL’S  HOLE. 


observed  disporting  itself  with  graceful  motion  as- 
cending and  descending  in  the  clear  waters,  as  if 
proud  of  its  splendid  livery  of  blue,  green  and 
gold.  The  gropers  are  easily  recognizable,  as 
they  crowd  together  with  open  mouths  in  hopes  of 
a feed  when  the  visitor  arrives.  Strange  tales  are 
told  of  the  voracity  of  these  finny  monsters,  of  unfor- 
tunate dogs  slipping  in  and  being  speedily  devou'^d. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


115 


and  if  the  visitor  should  come  to  the  place  when 
die  gropers  are  hungry,  and  dip  the  end  of  his  boot 
or  pocket  handkerchief  among  the  gaping  throng, 
he  will  soon  become  convinced  that  they  are  a fear- 
ful lot  of  creatures  to  deal  with. 

Following  the  road  leading  from  the  Devil’s  Hole, 
skirting  the  shore  of  Harrington  Sound,  at  a dis- 
tance of  about  two  miles  the  visitor  will  come  to 

PAYNTER  VALE, 

where  snugly  ensconced  in  a grove  of  tine  old  trees 
lie  all  that  remains  of  the  old  homestead  of  the 
Paynter  family.  Years  ago  it  presented  a far  differ- 
ent aspect,  for  the  house  was  capacious,  and  the  gar- 
den and  shubbery  adorned  with  well  kept  walks 
and  lawns,  while  a neat  boundary  wall  ran  along  the 
public  road  the  whole  extent  of  the  estate.  Now 
how  changed  it  all  appears ; the  house  a complete 
ruin,  with  ferns  growing  out  of  the  crevices,  and 
bananas,  paw-paws  and  cedars,  hemming  in  its 
remains  on  every  side.  Near  what  was  formerly 
the  principal  entrance  gate  stands  a magnificent 
fiddle-wood  tree.  It  was  brought  from  Barbados 
about  the  year  1829,  and  planted  here.  Under 
its  lofty  and  wide  spreading  branches  a cool,  refresh- 
ing breeze  is  nearly  always  to  be  felt. 

A little  to  the  east  of  the  house,  an  avenue  of  tall, 
tapering  cedar  trees  leads  to  the  old  burial  place  of 
the  family,  which  has  recently  been  covered  over 
with  blocks  of  stone  to  prevent  desecration.  Climb- 
ing “ Paynter’s  Hill”  near  by,  which  is  quite  steep. 


116 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


the  visitor  finds  himself  in  full  view  of  Harrington 
and  Flatt’s  Bridge  and  village  in  the  distance, 
while  a little  higher  he  will  find  a patch  of  red 
ground,  on  which  it  has  been  said  nothing  in 
the  shape  of  vegetation  has  ever  been  known  to 
grow.  About  eighty  yards  northward  of  this  patch, 
and  situated  in  the  adjoining  wood,  is  a small  cave 
known  as  “Chalk  Cave,”  in  which  an  old  negro 
woman  lived  many  years,  and  kept  a pig  in  a sty 
at  the  entrance.  On  returning  and  recrossing  the 
red  patch,  there  will  be  seen  on  the  left  hand  a 
deep  hollow  called  “Plantation  Hole,”  in  which 
coffee,  myrtle,  wild  cherry,  fiddle-wood  and  other 
trees  are  growing  and  entwining  their  branches 
together.  This  is  a charming  spot  and  well  worth 
the  trouble  of  descending  in  order  to  look  at  the 
coffee  trees  growing  in  a state  of  nature. 

After  leaving  this  cavernous  depression  and 
ascending  the  steep  hill  above  for  a short  distance 
the  visitor  will  come  suddenly  in  view  of  Castle 
Harbor  with  all  its  lovely  scenery  lying  at  his  feet. 
Descending  the  slope  before  him  and  arriving  at 
the  shore  he  will  find  himself  near  the  Government 
Limestone  Quarry,  from  which  large  blocks  of 
compact  stone  have  been  taken  for  building  fortifi- 
cations, etc.,  this  is  the  oldest  and  hardest  limestone 
on  the  island.  Turning  to  the  right  he  will  see  a 
house  now  used  as  a canteen,  which  was  built  by 
Captain  John  Paynter  about  the  year  1750,  for  the 
storage  of  cargoes,  and  opposite  which  his  vessel 
anchored.  About  seventy  yards  to  the  south-east 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


117 


of  the  storehouse  is  a cave  called  “Cooper’s  Hole,” 
and  well  worth  the  visit.  This  was  used  as  a store- 
house also  when  the  other  was  full.  Return- 
ing northward  along  the  margin  of  the  water,  the 
visitor  will  perceive  a current  of  water  rushing 
almost  under  his  feet,  which  is  supposed  to  flovv 
under  the  land  from  Harrington  Sound.  Still  con- 
tinuing northward  he  will  soon  arrive  at  a rail 
fence,  which,  if  he  follows  along  through  ferns, 
myrtle,  orange,  etc.,  will  bring  him  to  another  deep 
hollow  called  “ Little  Plantation  Hole.”  At  one 
time  this  was  covered  with  citron  and  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  but  very  few  now  remain,  owing  to  the 
great  disease  of  1854  destroyed  nearly  all  the 
orange  trees  on  the  island.  Still  following  the 
fence,  he  will  again  arrive  at  the  ruins  of  the  old 
Paynter  homestead  from  whence  he  started.  Just 
outside  of  the  entrance  gate  and  across  the  public 
road  on  the  shore  of  Harrington  Sound,  will  be 
seen  a cavern  in  the  cliff,  which  goes  by  the  name 
of  “Shark’s  Hole.”  If  a boat  can  be  obtained,  this 
cavern  is  well  worth  investigating,  for  several  spe- 
cies of  sea  weed  are  to  be  obtained  on  the  rocks  on 
either  side  ; while  in  the  recess  of  the  cave  beyond 
by  the  aid  of  a torch,  a beautiful  collection  of 
stalactites  can  be  seen. 

The  land  which  lies  between  Paynter  Vale  and 
the  south  shore,  including  the  long  narrow  neck 
which  stretches  out  eastward  to  Castle  Island,  is 
known  as  Tucker’s  Town.  Why  such  a name 
should  have  been  given  it  is  hard  to  imagine,  for  no 


118 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


town  was  ever  known  to  be  established  there,  and 
the  neighborhood  has  always  been  considered  the 
most  secluded  in  Bermuda.  Coming  back  to  the 
main  road  again  and  following  it  in  nearly  a north- 
westerly course,  for  a distance  of  about  a mile,  the 
visitor  will  come  to 

WALSHINGHAM. 

Few  if  any  visitors  to  these  islands  ever  leave  them 
without  paying  one  or  more  visits  to  this  classic 
locality,  through  whose  sylvan  glades  the  bard  of 
Erin  loved  to  roam,  and  who  has  immortalized  it  in 
his  musical  verse. 

It  was  in  1803  that  Moore  visited  Bermuda,  hav- 
ing been  presented  with  the  lucrative  post  of  Register 
of  the  Court  of  Vice  Admiralty;  but  the  ‘‘distant 
and  secluded  isle  ” was  too  far  from  the  busy  world 
of  gaiety  he  had  left  behind  in  the  metropolis  of 
England,  and  after  a few  months  he  took  his  depar- 
ture, leaving  a deputy  to  do  his  work. 

The  grounds  about  Walshingham  are  by  far  the 
most  picturesque  in  the  islands  ; presenting  a singu- 
lar chaotic  appearance  of  broken  rocks,  caverns  and 
ponds.  The  whole  region  is  singularly  attractive. 
Mimic  lakes  reflecting  the  varied  hues  of  the  rock 
which  inclose  them,  with  trees  overhanging  their 
banks,  teem  with  fish  wonderful  in  variety  and  color, 
whose  motions  are  the  ideal  of  grace.  By-paths 
through  the  tangled  wildwood  lead  one  through  a 
wilderness  of  beauty,  here  may  be  found  species  of 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


119 


plants  unknown  in  any  other  part  of  the  islands  ; 
the  coffee  tree  grows  luxuriantly  and  a climbing 
jasmine  overruns  both  rocks  and  trees  profusely. 
Nature  has  been  lavish  of  her  gifts  all  through  this 
localit}^  and  it  is  geologically  one  of  the  oldest 
sections  of  Bermuda,  the  soil  is  different  to  that  of 
other  parts,  being  of  a bright  red,  and  analysis 
proves  it  to  differ  also  in  its  nature. 


WALSHINGHAM  CAVES. 

No  whereon  the  islands  are  the  caves  more  beauti- 
ful than  in  Walshingham.  It  is  fitting  that  nature 
should  have  her  temples  in  such  a place.  Humility 
is  one  of  the  conditions  of  entrance  to  them,  and  so 
bending  low,  and  making  a slight  descent,  the  visitor 
is  soon  standing  in  a room  from  whose  arched  roof 
hang  large  stalactites.  Artificial  lights  bring  out 
each  in  its  full  proportions  and  one  contemplates 
with  wonder  this  strange  architecture,  considering 
the  ages  it  has  endured.  In  a second  cavern  near 
by,  and  which  is  much  more  spacious,  there  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  clear  as  crystal  and  of  an 
emerald  tint,  on  which  no  boat  has  ever  yet  been 
launched  to  explore  the  unknown  regions  of  dark- 
ness beyond.  Possibly  many  a cave  yet  remains  to 
be  discovered,  which  will  far  exceed  in  grandeur 
anything  now  known  ; but  the  present  caves  are 
quite  sufficent  to  afford  as  much  toilsome  travel  as 
the  visitor  would  probably  like  to  undergo.  A 


120 


S TAJIK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


short  distance  beyond  Walshingham  the  visitor  will 
come  to  a cross  road  leading  to  the 

CAUSEWAY. 

Until  1871,  the  only  way  of  reaching  St.  George’s 
from  the  main  island,  was  by  boat  across  the  nar- 
row entrance  from  the  north  side  into  that  part  of 
Castle  Harbor  called  “The  Reach.”  During  heavy 
northerly  gales,  the  passage  was  extremely  haz- 
ardous, and  during  the  height  of  a gale  and  gen- 
erally for  some  hours  after  it  had  ceased,  owing  to 
the  heavy  swell  rushing  in  here,  all  communica- 
tion was  stopped,  greatly  to  the  inconvenience  of 
the  inhabitants,  civil  and -military.  To  the  great 
delight  of  all  classes,  the  present  causeway  was 
constructed.  It  commences  at  a place  on  the 
Walshingham  side  called  the  Blue  Hole,  in  which 
several  kinds  of  fish  may  be  seen,  from  here  to 
Stock’s  Point  on  the  St.  George  side  the  whole  dis- 
tance is  nearly  two  miles,  it  is  connected  with 
Stock’s  Point  by  an  iron  swing  bridge  123  feet  long, 
which  spans  the  channel  through  which  moderate 
sized  craft  proceed  to  St.  George’s  Harbor  from  the 
north  side,  thereby  saving  the  lengthened  voyage 
all  around  the  north  side  of  St.  George’s  Island. 
The  iron  bridge  was  constructed  in  England  and 
sent  out  in  pieces,  it  revolves  on  a circular  pier, 
leaving  two  water  passages  for  boats  fifty  feet  wide. 
That  part  of  the  causeway  which  runs  along  Long 
Bird  Island,  is  especially  smooth  and  good  to  travel 
upon,  and  is  not  so  much  exposed  to  the  force  of 


St.  George’s  and  Ordinance  Island. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


123 


heavily  northerly  gales  as  that  part  which  connects 
Walshingham  with  the  island,  the  passage  of  which 
in  heavy  weather  is  sometimes  alarming  to  pas- 
sengers in  uncovered  vehicles,  the  water  dashing 
in  sheets  completely  over  the  way.  The  work 
on  the  causeway  was  commenced  1867,  and 
opened  free  of  all  tolls  with  public  rejoicings  in 
1871.  The  whole  cost  was  about  <£32,000,  of 
which  the  Imperial  Government  contributed  one 
fourth. 


MULLET  BAY. 

0 

After  crossing  the  swing  bridge  to  Stock’s  Point, 
an  irregular  promontory,  and  forming  its  western 
shore.  Mullet  Bay  is  reached,  one  of  the  many  pretty 
little  inlets  with  which  the  islands  are  everywhere 
indented.  In  its  centre  will  be  seen  a small  island, 
which  is  now  connected  with  the  land  by  a wooden 
bridge.  A short  distance  beyond  Mullet  Bay  the 
visitor  will  pass  a lofty  hill  on  which  is  Fort 
St.  George.  The  accompanying  illustration  is 
taken  from  it  looking  west.  In  the  background  is 
the  main  island,  it  is  connected  by  the  causeway 
which  appears  like  a thread,  with  Long  Bird  Is- 
land, which  comes  next  in  the  foreground.  This 
island  is  connected,  by  the  swing  bridge,  with  Stock’s 
Point,  the  promotory  shown  in  the  centre  of  the 
illustration.  Between  Stock’s  Point  and  the  ship- 
yard is  Mullet  Bay,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  from 


124 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


which  the  view  is  taken,  is  the  main  road  following 
the  shore  line,  and  leading  to  the  town  of 

ST.  GEORGE’S. 

This  was  once  the  chief  town  of  the  island  sand 
residence  of  the  governor.  The  house  of  assembly 
and  all  public  offices  concentrated  here,  and  most 
of  the  trade  of  the  islands  passed  through  its  harbor, 
but  from  its  position  it  was  considered  unsuitable 
for  the  capital ; so  Hamilton,  which  is  more  centrally 
situated,  was  chosen  in  its  stead  about  the  latter  part 
of  the  last  century. 

The  situation  of  the  town  of  St.  George’s  is  very 
fine,  rising  up  in  steep  acclivities  from  the  sea  and 
crowned  by  Fort  George.  Its  narrow  streets  and 
oddly  shaped  houses  give  the  town  a charm  that 
is  quite  distinctive.  York  street  is  but  ten  feet 
wide,  and  with  its  gardens  crowded  with  semi- 
tropical  vegetation  it  is  like  an  Oriental  picture. 

The  harbor  is  commodious,  well  fortified  and  far 
more  easily  accessible  than  that  of  Hamilton,  it  is 
so  extensive  that  the  whole  English  Navy  might 
ride  easily  upon  its  waters. 

In  the  view  taken  from  Fort  St.  George  looking 
east,  there  can  be  seen  the  harbor  of  St.  George’s, 
with  Ordinance  Island  in  the  centre,  and  the  town 
of  St.  George’s  on  the  left,  while  in  the  background 
the  barracks  can  be  seen  crowning  the  hill  on  the 
left,  and  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  on  the  right. 

A line  of  forts  are  built  along  the  north  side  of  St. 
George’s,  viz..  Fort  Albert,  Fort  Victoria,  Fort 


West  View  from  St.  George’s  Hill. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


127 


Catherine,  and  Fort  George, — -the  quaint  picturesque 
old  town  seems  tc  bristle  with  forts  everywhere. 
Strangers  are  not  allowed  inside  of  the  forts,  in 
fact  there  are  very  few  Bermudians  to  the  “ manor” 
born  that  have  ever  been  inside  these  works,  which 
are  said  to  be  among  the  strongest  in  the  world. 
The  narrow  streets,  constructed  when  carriages 
were  unknown  on  the  islands,  wind  their  narrow 
way  up  the  hill  on  which  much  of  the  town  is  built  *, 
with  the  gardens  hemmed  in  by  high  walls,  over 
which  hang  different  species  of  cacti,  with  paw- 
paws, bananas,  and  plantains  towering  above,  and 
here  and  there  the  graceful  form  of  the  palmetto 
surmounting  the  whole,  and  will  constantly  remind 
the  visitor  of  a Spanish  or  Eastern  town. 

• One  of  the  objects  of  interest  at  St.  George’s  is 
the  old  parish  church,  it  contains  several  marble 
tablets  remarkable  for  their  age  and  quaint  phraseol- 
ogy of  former  days.  The  communion  plate  of 
massive  silver  was  presented  by  King  William  III. 
in  1684,  and  the  silver  christening  basin  was  the 
gift  of  Governor  William  Brown,  a loyalist  from 
Salem,  Massachusetts,  who  was  appointed  gover- 
nor here  in  1782. 

Close  by  is  the  Public  Garden,  where  one  can  sit 
under  the  date  palms  one  hundred  and  fifty  years 
old ; here,  in  the  ivy-covered  wall  at  the  left  of  the 
lower  gate,  is  the  monument  of  Sir  George  Somers, 
after  whom  the  town  is  named.  Only  his  heart  is 
buried  here,  his  body  is  buried  in  Dorsetshire,  Eng- 
land. In  the  wall  above  the  old  monument  is  a 


128 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


white  marble  tablet,  erected  by  Governor  Sir  J.  H. 
Lefroy^  bearing  the  following  inscription : 

Near  this  spot 

Was  interred,  in  the  year  i6io,  the  Heart  of  the 
Heroic  Admiral, 

Sir  GEORGE  SOMERS,  Kt., 

Who  nobly  sacrificed  his  Life 
To  carry  succor 

To  tiie  infant  and  suffering  plantation, 

Now 

Thr  State  of  Virginia. 

To  preserve  his  Name  to  Future  Ages 
, Near  the  scene  of  his  memorable  shipwreck  of 
1609, 

The  Governor  and  Commander-in-Chief 
Gf  this  Colony  for  the  time  being  caused  this 
tablet  to  be  erected. 

1876. 


ST.  DAVID’S  ISLAND. 

Taking  a boat  at  St.  George’s  a very  pleasant 
trip  can  be  taken  to  St.  David’s  Island  and  light- 
house, the  scenery  in  all  parts  of  the  island,  espec- 
ially on  the  side  looking  over  Castle  Harbor,  is  no 
where  to  be  surpassed.  It  is  here  that  some  of  the 
best  arrow-root  to  be  obtained  in  Bermuda  is  grown 
and  manufactured.  The  light-house  on  St.  David’s 
Head  is  worth  visiting  ; it  is  built  of  the  native  stone, 
has  a white,  fixed  light,  but  is  not  of  as  great  a 
height  as  Gibb’s  Hill  light-house  ; there  is  a fine  view, 
however,  to  be  obtained  from  it  of  the  ocean  and 
surrounding  country. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


131 


CASTLE  HARBOR. 

A very  pleasant  day  may  be  spent  in  sailing 
about  this  charming  sheet  of  water,  the  beauties  of 
which  on  a bright  sunny  day,  with  sufficient  breeze 
to  ripple  the  azure  waters  are  not  to  be  excelled  in 
any  part  of  the  world.  Whichever  way  you  look 
the  eye  falls  upon  scenes  of  the  most  picturesque 
character,  diminutive  in  size  it  is  true,  yet  neverthe- 
less miniature  gems  of  nature.  A visit  should  be 
made  to  Castle  Island,  which  commands  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor,  and  on  which  there  is  the 
ruins  of  what  many  years  ago  was  a fort  of  some 
importance,  called  the  “King’s  Castle,”  a view  of 
which  is  shown  in  Smith’s  engraving  inserted  in 
this  work.  Southampton  Island  is  the  next  place 
to  attract  attention,  this  was  also  fortified  for  the 
same  purpose  as  Castle  Island,  between  which  is 
the  narrow  entrance  channel  to  Castle  Harbor. 
Near  this  island  on  the  south  side  is  “Gurnet 
Rock,”  an  isolated  mass,  being  almost  the  only  spot 
in  Bermuda  where  that  rare  bird  the  dusky 
shearwater  breeds,  which  is  evidently  the  curious 
bird  mentioned  by  Captain  John  Smith,  under 
the  name  of  the  “cahow”.  The  rock  is  almost 
unapproachable  owing  to  the  heavy  swell  of  the 
ocean,  and  many  are  the  escapes  that  have  occured 
when  parties  have  attempted  to  land  there.  After 
passing  Southampton  Island,  the  western  shore 
of  Nonsuch  Island  comes  into  view.  This  island 
now  belongs  to  the  Military  Department. 


132 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


Cooper’s  Island  next  claims  attention,  and  visitors 
w^ill  not  regret  landing  and  roaming  about  it  for  an 
hour  or  two,  as  there  is  much  to  be  seen  and  many 
shells  and  sea  weeds  to  be  found ; and  if  the  boat 
be  provided  with  a pair  of  long  handled  nippers, 
any  quantity  of  specimens  may  be  obtained  from 
beneath  the  waters  of  the  harbor. 


SOUTH  ROAD. 

Supposing  the  visitor  to  have  chosen  the  south  side 
road  by  which  to  return  to  Hamilton,  it  can  be  taken 
either  at  Tucker’s  Town  or  at  the  Devil’s  Hole. 
After  proceeding  about  two  miles  along  this  road  to 
the  westward,  the  visitor  will  perceive  in  a hollow 
below,  screened  from  the  ocean  by  small  hills  covered 
with  cedar,  a long  narrow  lake  considered  one  of 
the  pretty  scenes  of  Bermuda,  it  is  known  as  Penis- 
ton’s  Pond,  the  property  for  some  miles  around 
having  been  in  the  possession  of  the  Peniston  family 
for  many  years.  The  waters  of  Peniston’s  Pond 
are  quite  brackish,  having  communication  with  the 
outer  sea  by  underground  channels.  In  heavy 
southerly  storms  a perfect  stream  of  water  is  forced 
over  the  shore  rocks  at  the  eastern  end,  giving  it 
the  appearance  of  a natural  water  course.  On  the 
southern  shore  of  the  pond,  about  its  centre,  and 
within  a few  paces  of  the  water,  are  wells,  used  for 
the  purpose  ofwatering  cattle,  the  water  they  contain, 
like  all  similar  excavations  throughout  the  islands. 


Mangroves 


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BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


133 


is  fresh  above,  but  brackish  beneath,  as  soon  as  the 
sea  level  is  reached.  This  is  of  course  owing  to  the 
reason  that  fresh  water  is  lighter  than  salt. 


SPANISH  ROCK. 


A few  yards  east  of  the  cattle  wells  spoken  of, 
just  at  the  base  of  the  shore  hills,  an  open  grassy 

patch  will  be  seen.  After 
passing  this,  proceed  up 
through  the  cedar  grove  in 
front,  and  immediately  at 
the  top  a little  pathway 
will  be  seen  leading  to 
the  cliff  beyond,  care  must 
be  taken  on  approaching 
this  precipice,  for  if  a 
false  step  be  made  there 
is  nothing  to  prevent  a fall  of  fully  one  hundred 
feet  into  the  foaming  waters  below. 

The  flattened  rock  on  which  the  inscription  sup- 
posed to  be  made  by  the  Spaniard,  Ferdinand 
Camelo,  is  cut,  is  a little  below  the  crest  of  the  cliff, 
and  will  soon  be  observed  by  the  number  of  names 
carved  upon  it  by  visitors  to  this  memorable  spot. 
The  following  cut  is  a faithful  representation  of  it,  as 
it  now  appears,  but  it  is  feared  that  some  ruthless 
hand,  judging  from  the  reckless  manner  in  which 
names  are  now  cut  around  it,  will  sooner  or  later 
destroy  this  extremely  interesting  relic  of  antiquity. 


134 


STARK'S  ILLUSTRATED 


Returning  again  to  the  wells  on  Peniston  Pond, 
and  following  the  road  the  visitor  will  pass  Smith’s 
Parish  Church,  which  was  erected  about  twenty- 
five  years  ago.  This  edifice  was  preceeded  by  an 
old  antiquated  structure,  and  having  no  tower  the 
bell  was  hung  in  the  branches  of  an  old  cedar  growing 
close  by,  until  a heavy  gale  prostrated  the  tree,  and 
the  church  became  dangerous  to  enter.  The  old 
bell  possesses  a fine  sonorous  tone,  although  small 
in  size.  How  it  came  to  Bermuda  is  not  known, 
but  from  an  inscription  on  its  rim  in  French,  we 
learn  that  it  was  cast  at  Nantes,  in  the  year  1771. 
It  probably  came  from  some  of  the  French  West 
India  Islands,  during  the  great  war  at  the*  com- 
mencement of  the  present  century,  when  sacrilege, 
pillage  and  slaughter  were  freely  indulged  in. 


MODEL  FARM. 

Just  at  the  west  end  of  the  graveyard  will  be 
seen  a gateway  leading  up  the  hill  in*  a southerly 
direction;  this  leads  to  the  “model  farm,”  estab- 
lished during  the  administration  of  Governor  Reid 
for  the  purpose  of  exhibiting  to  the  islanders  the 
modern  system  of  agriculture.  Before  this  farm 
was  established,  the  plough  was  almost  unknown 
on  the  islands,  and  the  heavy  English  hoe  of  slavery 
days  was  considered  the  best  implement  to  till  the 
small  amount  of  soil  then  devoted  to  cultivation. 
Two  agriculturists  were  brought  from  Scotland, 
Messrs.  Fox  and  McGall,  to  superintend  the  farm. 


BERMUDA  GUI  ED. 


135 


Scotch  ploughs  of  the  most  improved  patterns  and 
various  other  implements  were  imported,  and  the 
cedar  and  sage  scrub  was  soon  transformed  into 
fertile  meadows  and  waving  corn  fields. 

While  Governor  Reid  was  in  Bermuda  the  farm 
prospered  ; but  after  his  departure,  no  one  taking 
an  interest  in  the  good  work,  and  the  superin 
tendents  becoming  discontented,  and  at  last  leaving 
the  island,  it  was  suffered  to  remain  idle  for  several 
years,  and  was  at  last  sold  into  private  hands. 
But  although  this  model  farm  did  not  prove  success- 
ful, yet  there  is  no  doubt  that  from  this  date  culti- 
vation began  to  increase,  to  a great  extent  owing  to 
the  introduction  of  improved  agriculturial  imple- 
ments, and  the  progress  has  been  maintained  to  the 
present  day.  At  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  fields  on 
a knoll  overlooking  the  water  is  the  remains  of 
Smith’s  Fort,  one  of  the  ancient  fortifications  shown 
in  Smith’s  engraving. 


SMITH’S  MARSH. 

About  a quarter  of  a mile  westward  from  the 
farm  commences  Smith’s  Marsh,  a long;  narrow 
hollow,  filled  with  sedges,  rushes,  palmettos  and 
scrub.  It  is  always  wet,  more  particularly  at  high 
tides,  as  it  has  underground  communication  with 
the  outer  sea.  In  former  days  this  hollow  was 
higher  than  at  present,  as  the  presence  of  giant 
cedars  now  lying  prostrate  under  the  boggy  soil 
sufficiently  testify.  The  cultivated  ground  border 


136 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


mg  the  marsh  is  more  fertile  than  that  of  the 
upland,  owing  to  the  moisture  it  contains,  which, 
even  in  times  of  great  drought,  never  wholly  leaves  it. 

On  the  summit  of  the  hill,  northward  of  the 
marsh,  will  be  observed  a large  stone  building, 
formerly  known  as  Devonshire  College,  but  lately 
converted  into  a Lunatic  Asylum.  As  a college  it 
certainly  ought  to  have  succeeded,  for  there  is  a 
great  want  felt  in  the  islands-  for  such  an  establish- 
ment. Near  the  entrance  to  the  college  grounds 
on  the  right  hand,  will  be  observed  an  old  ruin. 
This  is  all  that  remains  of  the  school  house  that  was 
erected  when  Richard  Norwood  was  schoolmaster. 

About  two  miles  from  Devonshire  Bay  along  the 
coast  westward,  is  Hungry  Bay,  an  excellent  place 
for  the  visitor  to  gain  some  idea  of  what  a tropical 
mangrove  swamp  must  be.  Fortunately  the  denizens 
of  the  Bermudian  mangrove  swamps  are  not  the 
dangerous  creatures  usually  found  in  like  localities 
in  the  tropics.  Near  the  entrance  to  this  bay  on  the 
eastern  side,  will  be  seen  the  ruins  of  a building 
formerly  used  as  a magazine.  A battery  existed 
here  also.  Regaining  the  public  road  again,  the 
visitor  is  now  only  a mile  or  so  from  Hamilton,  the 
point  of  departure. 


THE  MIDDLE  ROAD. 

There  is  a public  highway  not  often  traversed  by 
strangers,  leading  from  Hamilton  through  the  par- 
ishes of  Devonshire  and  Smith’s  to  the  Flatt’s  which 


NATURAL  SWAMP  VEGETATION. 


138 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


possesses  some  interesting  and  very  pretty  scenery  al 
intervals.  About  a mile  from  town  on  this  road 
the  military  station  at  Prospect  is  passed  on  the 
left  hand  and  about  another-  mile’s  distance  onward 
lies  Brackish  Pond  an  extensive  morass,  on  the 
skirt  of  which  grow  some  fine  specimens  of  cedar 
trees,  while  amongst  the  close  thicket  of  shrubs  and 
palmettos  which  tenant  its  interior,  some  giant  ferns 
and  aquatic  plants  of  divers  species  occur,  which 
are  not  seen  in  the  open  landscape. 

Near  the  skirts  of  this  pond,  surrounded  by  some 
of  the  finest  cedars  on  the  island,  stands  the  old 
antiquated  structure  which  formerly  served  as  the 
parish  church  of  Devonshire.  It  has  not  been 
used  since  the  new  church  which  stands  near  by 
was  completed.  There  is  an  old  cedar  tree  stand- 
ing in  the  churchyard  which  is  said  to  be  the  oldest 
now  existing  in  the  islands. 


HAMILTON  TO  SOMERSET  AND 
IRELAND  ISLAND. 

We  will  now  suppose  the  visitor  is  desirous 
of  proceeding  in  a westerly  direction  to  see  the 
other  portion  of  the  group.  Let  him  proceed  along 
Front  street  going  to  the  eastward,  skirting  along 
the  shores  of  Hamilton  Harbor,  and  before  he 
arrives  at  the  end  of  the  harbor  he  will  perceive 
four  fine  specimens  of  the  cabbage  palm,  with 
trunks  as  smooth  as  if  shaved,  and  bearing  above 
the  curious  bunch  of  foliage,  which,  from  its  resem- 


•iiD>inn;^  hhiiisxoahq 


BERMUDA  i^UIDE. 


139 


blance  to  the  vegetable  in  question,  has  given  the 
tree  its  name.  It  is  a common  tree  in  the  moun- 
tains of  the  West  India  Islands,  where  it  rears  its 
head  far  above  those  of  the  surrounding  forest  trees. 
Several  specimens  of  the  cocoanut  palm  are  also 
to  be  seen  here,  as  well  as  numerous  shrubs,  all 
natives  of  the  West  Indies.  The  property  on  which 
they  grow,  which  possesses  a very  prettily  situated 
residence,  embosomed  in  trees,  belong  to  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Reid.  At  the  bend  of  the  road  round  the 
harbor  head  several  mangrove  trees  grow  in  the 
mud.  A little  farther  on,  on  the  right  hand  side  of 
the  road  will  be  observed  a fine  tamarand  tree  stand- 
ing in  a neat  garden ; while  on  the  left,  on  the  side 
of  a wall  there  is  a hedge  of  the  “snuff  plant”  which, 
when  in  flower,  emits  a peculiar  odor.  It  is  a 
native  of  the  west  coast  of  America,  from  Califonia 
to  Peru. 

SAND  HILLS. 

Passing  along  the  main  road  the  visitor  will  pass 
Paget  Parish  Church,  built  in  1796.  The  Paget 
sand  hills  are  easily  reached  from  the  church,  being 
not  more  than  half  a mile  from  it.  This  steile  local- 
ity, which  is  an  extremely  wild  and  lonely  spot,  is 
well  worth  a visit,  for  here  can  be  seen  the  mode 
adopted  by  nature  to  form  Bermuda,  as  is  described 
in  the  article  on  “geology”in  this  work.  Here 
can  be  seen  the  drifting  sand  gradually  increasing 
its  deposits  and  elevating  the  land,  thereby  overcom 
ing  cedar  groves  and  cultivated  ground,  and  in  one 


140 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


place  even,  the  dwelling  of  man,  the  chimney  of  the 
cottage  alone  rises  above  the  sand  to  show  the  posi- 
tion of  the  house.  On  the  western  side  of  the  sand 
hills  there  is  now  a plateau  of  hardened  drift  sand, 
forming  gradually  into  rock. 

At  the  foot  of  these  sand  hills  near  the  shore,  runs 
a charming  stretch  of  sandy  beach.  At  low  water 
within  wading  distance  of  the  beach,  will  be  seen 
a series  of  ‘‘boilers”  as  they  are  called;  rounded 
masses  of  rock  hollowed  within,  containing  sea 
water,  having  their  margins  raised  by  the  incrust- 
ing  serpula.  About  a quarter  of  a mile  east  of  the 
sand  hills  are  the  Royal  Engineer  Quarries,  from 
whence  the  most  compact  stone  to  be  found  in  the 
islands  is  procured,  for  the  purpose  of  building  for- 
tifications, and  other  government  work.  The  stone 
taken  at  this  spot  is  extremely  hard  and  durable, 
and  is  more  of  the  nature  of  mountain  limestone 
than  any  other  to  be  found  in  the  group.  It  is 
supposed  that  this  locality  is  the  oldest  of  Bermu- 
dian land.  Returning  to  the  public  road  a little 
beyond  Paget  Church,  the  next  object  to  attract 
attention  will  be  the  prettily  situated  church  of 
Warwick,  which  overlooks  a little  lake  known  as 
“ Warwick  Pond.”  The  scenery  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  is  very  fine ; hills  clothed  with  ever- 
green cedars  to  their  summits,  and  having  at  their 
base  the  picturesque  little  lake,  reflecting  the  foliage 
on  its  calm  unruffled  surface. 

About  a mile  beyond  Warwick  Church  occurs  a 
very  pretty  little  inlet  of  the  Great  Sound,  bear- 


Royal  Pai.ms. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


143 


ing  the  name  of  Hearn  Bay.  Some  of  the  houses 
in  this  locality  have  an  antiquated  appearance,  and 
were  evidently  built  many  years  ago.  After  leav- 
ing this  quiet  little  place,  and  proceeding  a mile  or 
so  futher  on  the  road,  the  towering  form  of 

GIBB’S  HILL  LIGHT-HOUSE 

appears  on  the  ridge  of  a hill  to  the  left,  there  is  a 
road  leading  up  to  it,  and  carriages  can  proceed 
close  up  to  the  tower.  This  commanding  structure, 
possessing  one  of  the  most  powerful  lights  to  be  seen 
in  any  part  of  the  world,  is  situated  on  the  summit 
of  Gibb’s  Hill,  the  highest  point  of  land  in  the 
western  portion  of  Bermuda.  The  light  itself  stands 
three  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  above  sea 
level,  it  is  a revolving  light  and  appears  every 
fifty-four  seconds  ; from  an  elevation  of  only  ten  feet 
above  water  it  can  be  seen  a distance  of  twenty-five 
miles,  while  at  forty  feet  it  can  be  easily  distin- 
guished thirty  miles  off.  The  tower,  which  is  of 
cast  iron,  was  constructed  in  London,  and  sent  out 
in  plates,  the  last  of  which  was  put  into  place  Oct. 
9,  1845.  The  cost  exclusive  of  the  light  machinery 
was  £5,500,  all  of  which  the  Imperial  Government 
paid  on  the  understanding  that  the  colony  would 
furnish  the  necessary  funds  for  lighting,  repairing, 
etc.,  which  has  always  been  granted. 

A splendid  view  can  be  obtained  from  the  gallery 
of  this  light,  the  finest  of  course  in  the  islands,  and 
one  which  no  visitor  to  Bermuda  should  fail  to  ste. 
It  is  a bird’s  eye  view  of  the  whole  group,  nothi?  g 


2 


144 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


is  left  out,  the  whole  cluster  of  islets  lies  at  our  feet, 
set  as  it  were  in  a plane  of  azure  with  emerald  tints. 
The  view  shown  in  the  first  part  of  this  work  was 
taken  from  this  point. 

There  are  some  very  pretty  little  coves  under  the 
light-house,  having  their  shores  irregularly  indented 
by  rocks,  which  in  some  places  become  detached 
from  the  cliffs  above. 

Small  indeed  is  the  spot  occupied  by  Bermuda  on 
the  wild  waste  of  waters,  and  far  removed  from  the 
nearest  land ; nor  is  our  feeling  of  security  the 
more  confirmed  when  stationed  at  the  summit  of 
this  light-house  to  witness  the  effect  of  some  heavy 
gale ; when  the  rolling  seas,  which  have  been 
unimpeded  in  their  course  for  hundreds  of  miles, 
thunder  against  the  shore,  and  the  force  of  the 
tempest  makes  the  whole  fabric  vibrate  to  its  very 
foundation. 

About  half  a mile  from  the  light-house  stands 
Port  Royal,  or  Southampton  Parish  Church,  in  a 
very  exposed  situation  near  the  verge  of  the  cliffs 
which  overhang  the  south  shore.  There  are  some 
very  interesting  records  belonging  to  this  parish 
church,  bearing  date  so  far  back  as  1639. 


SOMERSET. 

Somerset  bridge  connects  the  island  of  Somerset 
or  Sandy’s  with  the  main  island.  Immediately  east 
of  the  bridge  on  the  right  hand,  will  be  observed  a 
]arge  mansion  in  a grove  of  trees,  known  as  “Bridge 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


145 


House,”  it  was  formerly  the  homestead  of  the 
Tucker  family.  To  the  westward  of  the  bridge,  on 
a neck  of  land  which  protects  the  waters  of  Elis  Har- 
bor from  the  ocean  swell,  rises  “Wreck  Hill.’- 
Here  in  days  of  yore,  the  inhabitants  would  con- 
gregate after  a tempestuous  night  to  look  out  for 
wrecks  on  the  western  reefs,  which  have  always 
been  considered  the  most  dangerous  of  all  the  reefs 
surrounding  the  islands. 

Elis  Harbor  is  a perfect  little  gem  of  an  inlet, 
which  to  be  seen  in  its  greatest  perfection  should  be 
visited  on  a bright  sunny  day,  when  its  waters 
appear  of  the  lightest  emerald  tint.  But  at  any 
time  it  is  beautiful ; so  calm  and  peaceful  does  it  lie 
surrounded  by  its  rocky  shores,  clothed  almost  to 
the  waters  edge  with  the  evergreen  foliage  of  the 
scented  cedar.  About  half  a mile  from  here  the 
visitor  will  pass  the  parish  church  of  Somerset, 
formerly  known  as  Sandy’s.  But  little  is  known  in 
regard  to  the  old  church  which  existed  on  the  same 
spot  prior  to  1783. 

At  the  extremity  of  Somerset  Island  lies  Man- 
grove Bay,  so  named  from  the  number  of  those 
trees  which  formerly  grew  around  its  margin.  The 
scenery  here  is  very  pretty,  although  the  land  is 
almost  level  with  the  water.  On  the  other  side  of 
the  neck  of  land  which  divides  Mangrove  Bay  from 
the  ocean  lies  a stretch  of  sandy  beach  well  worth 
examining ; for  as  it  lies  open  to  the  heavy  westerly 
gales  some  fine  specimens  of  sponges,  shells  and 
sea  weeds  are  often  cast  ashore. 


2 


146 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


IRELAND  ISLAND. 

Waterford  and  Boaz  Islands  connect  Somerset 
with  Ireland  Island,  their  surfaces  have  been  par- 
tially levelled  by  convict  labor  during  the  time  that 
these  islands  were  burdened  by  the  presence  of  the 
worst  of  criminals  transported  from  England. 

In  the  former  island  is  situated  the  old  burial 
ground  of  the  convicts,  where  many  a felon  has 
found  a last  resting  place  far  away  from  the  scenes 
of  his  crime.  On  Boaz  Island  the  principal  bar- 
racks and  stores  for  the  convicts  were  established, 
but  some  were  quartered  at  Ireland  ; and  when  their 
number  increased  to  too  great  an  extent  to  allow 
of  accommodation  on  land,  they  were  distributed 
among  old  man-of-war  hulks  at  anchor  olf  shore. 

Probably  the  most  important  position  in  the  Ber- 
mudas is  Ireland  Island ; which  although  not  much 
more  than  a mile  in  length,  or  a quarter  of  a one  in 
breadth,  contains  the  dockyard  and  other  establish- 
ments connected  with  the  Royal  Navy,  a more 
extended  description  of  which  has  been  given  in  this 
work,  in  the  article  on  “Military  and  Navy,”  it 
being  unnecessary  to  repeat  it  here. 

The  “Royal  Naval  Hospital”  stands  on  a hill 
immediately  above  the  dockyard,  while  beneath, 
occupying  a large  space  of  ground,  prettily  orna- 
mented by  cedar  groves  and  smooth  grassy  glades, 
is  the  Naval  Cemetery.  Here  are  several  melan- 
choly memorials,  some  to  officers  and  crews  of  men 
of  war  which  sailed  from  Bermuda  and  were  lost  at 


BERMUDA  GUIDE, 


147 


sea  ; and  others  to  young  officers  of  the  navy  or 
army,  whose  lives  were  cut  short  ere  they  began 
their  wordly  career. 

There  are  three  Admirals  buried  here,  one  of 
them,  Sir  Charles  Paget,  left  Jamaica,  in  January 
1839,  Steamer  “Tartarus,”  to  proceed  to 

Bermuda  for  the  benefit  of  his  health  ; he  being  ill  of 
yellow  fever  at  the  time.  But  it  is  related  that  for 
five  weeks  the  steamer  could  not  find  the  islands, 
having  no  chronometers  on  board  and  being  unable 
to  make  out  the  latitude.  At  last  it  finally  arrived 
safely  at  its  destination,  but  the  voyage  was  too 
much  for  the  admiral  and  only  his  mortal  remains 
reached  here.  There  is  also  a memorial  stone  to 
the  memory  of  the  officers  and  crew  of  H.  M. 
Ships  “Acorn”  and  “ Tempest,  ” which  acted  as 
mail  packets  between  Halifax  and  Bermuda  and 
singular  to  relate,  left  their  respective  ports  at  the 
same  time,  and  were  never  heard  of  afterwards. 

At  the  extremity  of  Ireland  Island,  and  looking 
over  the  sea,  stands  a conspicuous  building  having 
a veranda  running  all  around  it.  This  was  form- 
erly the  “Commissioners  House,”  and  was  built  at 
the  expense  of  the  English  government  about  1828, 
at  an  expense  of  £90,000.  It  ceased  to  be  used  for 
a number  of  years  and  remained  untenanted  and 
fell  into  decay.  Now  it  is  used  as  quarters  for  the 
military  stationed  at  Ireland  Island. 

The  anchorage  ground  opposite  Ireland,  on  the 
east  side,  where  several  men-of-war  are  generally 
to  be  seen,  is  known  as  “ Grassy  Bay.” 


148 


5 T ARK'S  ILL  US TRA  TED 


TO  IRELAND  ISLAND  BY  WATER. 

In  1880,  an  English  built  steam  launch  was  run 
between  Hamilton  and  Ireland  Island,  this  not  prov- 
ing adequate,  in  1882  the  Moonedyne,  a wooden 
steam  yacht  of  good  model,  was  purchased  in  New 
York,  and  skilfully  brought  to  Bermuda,  after  a 
very  rough  voyage,  and  placed  on  this  route.  The 
most  ample  facilities  are  afforded  visitors  in  this  ves- 
sel of  seeing  the  Somerset  section  of  Bermuda,  hither- 
to but  little  explored  by  visitors.  Passing  through 
“ One-Rock  Passage,”  at  the  “ Head  of  the  Lane,” 
you  enter  “Great  Sound,”  with  “Grassy  Bay”  in 
the  distance,  and  the  anchorage  ground  off  the 
dockyard,  the  sweep  of  the  Somerset  shore  being 
a graceful  curve. 

At  Oxford,  on  the  right,  will  be  observed  a 
monument  erected  by  the  56th  Regiment,  when 
removed  there  during  the  37-ellow  fever  epidemic, 
made  with  rough  tools,  bayonets  and  iron  hoops. 
As  you  approach  Ireland  Island,  the  most  prom- 
inent objects  to  be  seen  are  the  Naval  Superin- 
tendent’s house  to  the  westward,  and  the  Com- 
missioner’s house  on  East  Point  and  “The  Camber,” 
a large  artificial  basin  with  strongly  built  piers, 
in  which  is  the  famous  floating  dock  “Bermuda.” 
The  steamer  makes  two  trips  daily  between 
Hamilton  and  Ireland  Island.  The  visitor  should 
take  the  morning  trip  and  return  in  the  after- 
noon, this  will  give  ample  time  to  see  all  the 
attractions  there. 


Bermuda  Yacht,  Undine 


BERMUDA  GUIED. 


151 


ROYAL  BERMUDA  YACHT  CLUB. 

The  house  of  this  Club  is  situated  on  Front  street, 
and  from  its  veranda  a fine  view  of  the  harbor  and 
opposite  hills  of  Paget  and  Port  Royal  can  be 
obtained.  The  Club  has  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  members  and  is  under  the  patronage  of 
Admiral  H.  R.  H.  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh. 
There  are  fourteen  yachts  owned  by  the  members 
of  the  club.  It  is  a social  as  well  as  a yachting 
organization.  The  Club  House  contains  an  excel- 
lent reading  room,  restaurant,  sleeping  accommoda- 
tions, billiard  room,  etc.  Its  members  are  com- 
posed of  Bermudians  of  the  highest  social  stand- 
ing, also  many  naval  and  military  officers.  Stran- 
gers can  become  honorary  members  of  the  club,  and 
be  entitled  to  all  the  privileges  of  same  for  a limited 
period  of  time,  on  being  introduced  by  a member. 

To  many  visitors  and  the  majority  of  the  resi- 
dents, yachting  amongst  the  islands  and  in  the 
* sound  will  always  remain  one  of  the  principal 
attractions  in  Bermuda. 

The  Bermudian  yacht  is  peculiar  to  the  island  in 
shape  and  rig.  They  are  carvel  built,  of  the  native 
red  cedar,  which  is  peculiarly  suitable  for  the  pur- 
pose, being  buoyant  and  wonderfully  durable. 
They  are  deeper  and  narrower  in  proportion  to 
their  length  than  the  boats  found  in  other  waters. 
The  cedar  wood,  when  polished  and  varnished,  has 
a handsome  and  effective  appearance,  and  the 
yachts  are  consequently  not  often  painted  outside. 


152 


STARK’S  ILLUSTRATED 


In  size  the  yachts  vary  from  three  to  twelve  tons. 
They  are  sloop  rigged,  without  any  gaff,  the  main- 
sail being  “leg-of-mutton”  in  shape,  the  other  sails 
consist  of  a jib,  (in  bad  weather  a storm  jib  is 
used)  a flying  jib,  a spinnaker,  a topsail  and 
occasionally  a water  sail  underneath  the  boom,  these 
four  latter  are  used  only  in  light  weather.  The 
peculiar  rig  of  the  yachts  enables  them  to  turn 
almost  in  their  own  length  and  to  sail  “close- 
hauled”  or  near  to  the  wind,  to  a degree  unknown 
elsewhere.  The  intricacy  of  the  channels  among 
the  reefs  and  between  the  numerous  small  islands 
renders  this  quality  absolute  indispensable. 

A programme  for  cruising  is  arranged  period- 
ically, their  races  are  very  interesting,  and  the 
whole  island  partakes  in  the  excitement,  and  every 
movement  of  the  competitors  is  watched  with  crit- 
ical eye  by  the  interested  spectator.  Prizes  are 
given  and  eagerly  competed  for,  and  on  such  occa- 
sions it  is  quite  a gala-day  on  the  water. 

There  is  an  amateur  “ Dingey  Club  ” which  has  - 
done  much  to  develope  the  taste  for  yachting  among 
the  youth  of  the  place.  These  little  boats  called 
“dingeys”  are  rigged  in  the  same  way  as  the 
yachts,  and  of  course  great  skill  is  needed  in  hand- 
ling them,  for  they  carry  an  astonishing  large 
amount  of  canvas  and  spars,  when  engaged  in  the 
regattas. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  conceive  a more  beauti- 
ful sight  than  a boat  race  in  Bermuda.  The  trim 
yachts  dashing  with  headlong  speed  through  the 


Yacht  Race  — Rouxde\(;  the  Stake  Boat. 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


153 


clear,  sparkling  water,  with  their  varnished  sides 
and  snowy  canvas  glistening  in  the  bright  sunshine, 
make  a picture  of  inexpressible  grace  and  beauty. 

Yachts  can  be  hired  for  $5.00  per  day,  that  will 
accommodate  from  eight  to  ten  persons  comfortably, 
this  price  includes  the  services  of  a good  boatman 
to  take  care  of  the  yacht.  Good  fishing  can  be  had 
almost  everywhere,  and  there  are  many  delightful 
spots  on  the  numerous  islands  where  camping  can 
be  enjoyed  to  the  greatest  perfection.  It  is  well 
worth  visiting  Bermuda,  if  only  to  enjoy  the  exhila- 
rating delights  of  sailing,  rowing,  camping,  fishing 
and  out-door  life  generally. 


THE  ISLAND’S  IN  THE  SOUND. 

The  large  sheet  of  water  which  is  enclosed  by  the 
curve  of  the  land  running  from  Paget  Parish  to 
Ireland  Island,  is  known  as  “The  Great  Sound.’’ 
It  contains  several  islands,  generally  of  small  size, 
nearly  all  of  which  are  wooded  and  are  very  pic- 
turesque. Tucker’s  Island,  which  lies  close  in  shore 
near  Somerset  Bridge,  is  well  worthy  of  a visit ; and 
the  visitor  should  not  omit  to  notice  a lovely  little 
cavern  upon  it.  Grace,  Ricket,  Moses  and  Dar- 
rell’s Islands,  which  run  in  a line  with  the  pre- 
vious island  are  of  small  size,  but  are  excellent 
places  for  camping.  The  latter  island  was  formerly 
used  as  a quarantine  station,  and  there  is  a grave- 
yard there  in  which  are  man}^  victims  of  small  pox, 
the  buildings  were  burnt  some  years  ago  and  are 


154 


STARK^S  ILLUSTRATED 


now  in  ruins.  Port’s  Island  was  also  used  as  a quaran- 
tine, and  possessed  a hospital,  in  the  graveyard 
many  victims  of  yellow  fever  have  found  a resting 
place,  and  odd  enough  this  island  has  always  been 
a popular  resort  of  pic-nic  parties ; and  the  very 
apartments  which  the  fever-stricken  patients  have 
lived  and  died  in  are  often  used  for  dancing.  It  is 
certainly  a pretty  spot,  and  the  hard  pine  floors  are 
smooth  and  large,  and  are  excellent  for  dancing  pur- 
poses, but  an  air  of  melancholy  pervades  the  whole 
island. 

There  are  several  monuments  here  which  tell 
their  own  tale  of  sorrow  and  suffering.  Long 
Island  to  the  seaward  of  Port’s  Island,  has  also  head- 
stones to  the  memory  of  several  soldiers  who  lie 
buried  there.  Fern  Island  is  to  the  eastward  of  the 
latter,  and  is  the  property  of  the  Bermuda  Yacht 
Club  ; it  contains  a building,  and  is  much  resorted 
to  by  members  of  the  club,  where  turtle  dinners, 
dancing  and  other  festivities  are  indulged  in. 


THE  PRESS  IN  BERMUDA. 

The  following  is  a brief  description  of  the  news- 
papers published  in  Bermuda,  during  the  past  hun- 
dred years. 

The  first  newspaper  published  here  was  issued  in 
1784,  and  was  styled  the  “Bermuda  Gazette,”  J. 
Stockdale  printer,  St.  George’s.  On  the  first  page 
was  a copy  of  “ The  Definite  Treaty  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  St'^tes  of  America.” 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


15^ 


The  paper  met  with  fair  success  until  the  death 
of  Stockdalein  1808,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands 
of  his  daughters,  and  was  continued  by  them.  In 
1816,  with  the  1,616  number  the  publication  of  the 
Bermuda  Gazette  at  St.  George’s  ceased.  The 
publication  was  transferred  to  Hamilton,  under  the 
name  of  “The  Bermuda  Gazette  and  Hamilton 
and  St.  George’s  Weekly  Advertiser,”  Free  and 
Loyal,  Charles  Rollin  Beach  publisher,  (who  mar- 
ried Sarah  Stockdale.) 

Beach’s  relations  with  the  governor  were  far  from 
being  cordial,  and  probably  on  this  account  he  sold 
his  plant  in  1824  and  emigrated  to  Connecticut ; he 
died  in  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  The  merchants  purchased 
Beach’s  stock  and  continued  the  publication  a few 
months  when  it  stopped. 

Mr.  Edmund  Ward  published  “The  Bermuda 
Royal  Gazette  from  1809  to  1816.  He  was  induced 
to  come  from  Halifax  and  publish  this  paper  in  con- 
sequence of  a difficulty  between  Governor  Hodgson 
and  the  people  of  Bermuda,  which  produced  libel- 
ous attacks  upon  his  government,  these  libels  ap- 
pearing in  the  only  paper  published  in  the  island. 
The  governor  sent  to  Halifax  for  a person  he  wished 
to  appoint  “ King’s  Printer,”  and  Mr.  Ward  had  the 
honor  of  publishing  the  first  “ Royal  Gazette.’ 
During  the  administration  of  Sir  James  Cockburn, 
he  published  an  article  relating  to  the  capture  of  the 
American  frigate  “President,”  Commodore  Deca- 
tur, by  the  “ Endymion,”  Captain  Hope,  in  which  it 
was  stated  that  the  “ President”  narrowly  escaped 


156 


STAJ^/^’S  ILLUSTRATED 


recapture  by  sixty-eight  men  that  were  concealed  in 
the  sail  room.  This  statement  the  governor  ordered 
Mr.  Ward  to  retract,  and  he,  declining  to  do  so, 
was  deprived  of  his  commission  as  “ Kings  Printer,” 
and  he  soon  after  returned  to  Halifax  and  published 
a paper  there. 

“The  Royal  Gazette”  was  first  issued  in  1828, 
under  the  name  of  David  Ross  Lee,  his  son,  Mr. 
Donald  McPhee  Lee,  on  his  return  from  Halifax, 
assumed  the  management  on  the  issue  of  the  third 
number,  and  continued  it  until  the  time  of  his  death 
in  1883,  a practical  journalistic  experience  of  over 
fifty-five  years.  The  publication  of  the  pape:  was 
continued  by  his  son,  Mr.  Gregory  Vose  Lee. 
This  is  the  government  paper  of  Bermuda. 

“The  Bermuda  Colonist”  is  published  in  vSt.  Geor- 
ge’s every  Wednesday  morning.  The  “ Colonist” 
was  established  in  1866  by  Mr.  Charles  Brady,  and 
is  now  published  by  Mr.  S.  Seward  Toddings.  When 
it  was  first  established  it  was  published  bi-weekly, 
but  soon  after  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Mr. 
Toddings  it  was  enlarged  and  converted  into  a 
weekly  newspaper.  One  of  the  principal  features 
of  the  paper  is  the  publication  of  full  reports  of  the 
Debates  of  the  House  of  Assembly  during  the  Ses- 
sion of  the  Legislature. 

“The  Bermudian”  was  first  published  in  1833 
by  Mr.  Jenkins  who  sold  out  and  went  to  China  as 
a missionary.  The  paper  then  passed  into  the 
hands  of  Mr.  Washington,  who  continued  its  pub- 
lication until  his  death  in  i860.  The  business  was 


BERMUDA  GUIDE. 


157 


then  carried  on  by  his  widow  until  1878,  when  it 
ceased  to  exist. 

“ The  Bermuda”  newspaper  was  established  by 
Mr.  William  Martin  in  1845,  and  in  the  following 
year  Mr.  Robert  Ward  became  the  publisher  of  it,  and 
it  was  issued  by  him  until  1857.  In  1848  he  pub- 
lished an  article  containing  some  severe  strictures 
on  the  House  of  Assembly,  which  led  that  body  to 
institute  a suit  for  libel  against  him,  and  which 
resulted  adverse  to  Mr.  Ward,  who  was  sentenced 
to  a fine  of  £50  and  costs  with  imprisonment  for 
some  twenty  days.  Popular  feeling  was  with  the 
editor. 

“The  Mirror,  ” a bi-weekly,  was  conducted  by 
Mr.  George  A.  .Lee,  for  a limited  period  and  was  a 
creditable  production. 

“The  Times  and  Advocate”  was  established  by 
Messrs.  Parker  & Co.,  in  1871.  “The  Home  and 
People’s  Journal  ” was  started  in  1882  by  Mr.  John 
J.  Parker.  The  two  papers  became  consolidated 
under  the  name  of  the  “Bermuda  Times,  or  People’s 
Journal,”  in  1883. 

The  “New  Era,”  A.  L.  Spedon,  editor  and 
proprietor,  was  first  issued  in  1881.  It  is  based  on 
strictly  liberal  and  independent  principles,  and  is 
issued  every  Wednesday  noon  at  Hamilton. 


THE  END. 


INDEX  TO  TEXT. 


PAGE. 

Agar’S  Island,  ....  102 

Agriculture,  . . .57, 58, 61 

American  House,  ...  19 

American  Consul,  . . 67,  110, 113 

American  Revolution,  . .44,54 

Assembly,  House  of,  . . 94 

Bennett,  Governor,  . . 42 

Bermuda,  Description  of,  . 9 

Bermuda  Colonist,  Newspaper,  156 
Bermudian,  The,  Newspaper,  156 

Bermuda,  The,  Newspaper,  . 157 

BermudaGazette,  Newspaper  154, 155 
Bermuda,  History  of,  . . 20 

Blockade  Runners,  ...  55 

Blue  Hole,  ....  120 

Brackish  Pond,  ...  138 

Browne,  Governor,  . . .53 

Bruere,  Governor,  ...  51 

Butler,  Governor,  ...  34 

Brunswick  House,  ...  19 

Cabbage  Palms,  . . 138,139 

Caldicot,  Charles,  ...  30 

Camber,  . . . . 82,  148 

Camelo,  Ferdinand,  . 20,  133 

Castle  Island,  . . „ 13i 

Castle  Harbor,  . . . 131,  132 

Causeway,  . . . 120,  123 

Caves,  . , . ,92, 93, 119 

Clarence  Hill,  , , 100, 102,  103 

Climate,  . , , .55, 56, 57 

Commerce,  . . . 57, 58,  61 

Company,  Somers  Island,  . 29 

Convicts,  , . . .81, 82 

Coopers  Island,  . . . 132 

Cook,  Governor  of  Rhode  Island,  44 
Coral  Reefs,  . . . , 84, 85 

Crawl  Point,  ....  113 

Custom  House,  ...  97 

Customs  and  Manners,  64^,  67p  68 

Cunard  Steamship  Company,  10 
Darrell’s  Island,  . . . 153 

Description  of  Bermuda,  . 9 

Devils  Hole,  . . 113,114,115 

Devonshire  Bay,  . . . 136 

Devonshire  College,  . . 136 

Devonshire  Parish  Church,  . 138 

Dingey  Club,  ....  162 

Dock,  Floating,  ...  83 

Ducking  Stool,  . . 104, 107 

Education 72. 73 


PAGE. 

. 145 

. 67,  100 
154 

109 

110 


Elis  Harbor,  . 

Fairy  Land, 

Fern  Island, 

Flatt’s  Village,  . 

Flatt’s  Harbor, 

Fort’s  Albert,  Catherine,  Victoria 
and  St.  George’s,  123, 124, 127 
Gates,  Sir  Thomas,  . 

Gallows  Island, 

Geology,  . 

Gibbons  Bay,  . 

Gibbs’  Hill  Lighthouse 
Globe  Hotel, 


Government 
Grassy  Bay, 

Grace  Island,  . 

Great  Sound, 

Gurnet  Rock,  . 

Hamilton, 

Hamilton  House, 

Hamilton,  Governor, 
Hamilton  to  St.  George’s 
Harrington  Sound,  . 

Hearn  Bay, 

History  of  Bermuda, 

Hog  Money, 

Hungry  Bay, 

Indian  Slaves,  . 
Inhabitants, 

Ireland  Island,  . 

Islands  in  the  Sound, 
Kendall,  Deputy  Govenior, 
King’s  Castle,  . 

Lefroy,  Governor,  . 
Lighthouse, 

Long  Bird  Island,  . 
Lunatic  Asylum, 

May,  Henry, 

Manners  and  Custom 
Massachusetts,  . 
Mangroves, 

Mangrove  Bay, 

Mahogany  Tree, 

Melbourne  House,  . 
Middle  Road,  . 

Militaiy  and  Navy, 

Mirror,  Newspaper, 

Mount  Langton, 

Moore,  Tom, 

Moonedyne, 


24 

108,  109 
84  to  93 
108 
143 

19 

68,  71,  72 

147,  148 
153 

148,  153 
131 

5,  93,  94,  97 
. 16,  19 
93 
103 
no,  113 
143 

20 
31 

136 
31,  40,  62 
61,  62,  63,  64 
146,  147 
81,  153,  154 
34 
131 

128,  143, 144 
120,  123 
136 
21 

64,  67,  68 
52,  53,  54 
102,  136,  139 
145 
109 
19 
136 
74  to  83 
157 

97,  98,  100 
118 
148 


40, 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 


Moses  Island,  . 

153 

Model  Farm, 

134,  135 

Mullet  Bay, 

123,  124 

Navy  and  Military,  . 

74  to  83 

Newport.  Captain.  . 

24 

New  Era  Newspaper, 

157 

Negro  Slaves,  . 

31,  40,  62 

Nonsuch  Island. 

131 

North  Koad, 

104,  113 

Norwood,  Richard,  . 

30,  100, 136 

North  Rock, 

. 87,88 

Ordiance  Island, 

124 

Paget  Church,  . 

139 

Paw  Paw  trees. 

102 

Paynter  Vale,  . 115, 

116,  117, 118 

Paynter’s  Hill, 

115 

Pembroke  Church,  . 

104 

Peniston’s  Pond,  . 

132,  134 

Point  Share, 

103 

Port’s  Island,  . 

154 

Powder  Conspiracy, 

43  to  51 

Powell,  Captain, 

. 31,32 

Pirates, 

. 41,42 

Press  in  Bermuda,  . 

154 

Public  Buildings,  . 

94 

Public  Library, 

97 

Quebec  Steamship  Company,  10 

Reach,  The, 

120 

Reid,  Governor, 

97,  98, 135 

Religion,  . 

. 73,  74 

Revolution,  American, 

44,  54,  78 

Ricket  Island,  . 

153 

Richer,  Governor,  . 

42 

Routes,  Pleasiu'e,  103, 132 

!,  136, 138, 148 

Royal  Bermuda  Tacht  Club,  151 

Royal  Engineer  Quarries,  . 140 

Royal  Gazette,  . 

155 

Sand  Hills, 

PAGE. 

. 139 

Sessions  House, 

94 

Seymour,  Governor, 

41 

Shark’s  Hole,  . 

117 

Slaves,  .... 

31 

Smith,  Captain  John, 

37 

Smith’s  History, 

37 

Smith’s  Marsh, 

135, 

136 

Smith’s  Church, 

134 

Somers,  Sir  George, 

24, 127, 

128 

South  Road, 

132, 

133 

Somerset 

144, 

145 

Somerset  Church,  . 

145 

Southampton  Island, 

■131 

Southampton  Church, 

144 

Spanish  Point,  . 

103 

Spanish  Rock,  . 

i33. 

134 

St.  George  Hotel, 

19 

St.  George’s, 

124  to 

128 

St.  David’s  Island,  . 

128 

Steamship  Companies,  . 

10 

Stagg’s  Rocks, 

103, 

113 

Stock’s  Point,  . 

120 

Times  and  Advocate, 

157 

Tucker,  Governor,  . 

31 

Tucker  Town,  . 

117 

Turner,  Governor, 

40 

Turk’s  Island,  . 

43 

Union  Line  Steamers, 

10 

Villa  Mount  Clair,  . 

*67. 

113 

Washington,  General,  . 

44  to  50 

Warwich  Church,  . 

140 

Walshingham,  . 

118 

Wells,  The,  . . . 

io7. 

108 

Wentworth,  Captain, 

41 

Woodlands, 

104 

Wreck  Hill, 

145 

Yacht  Club, 

151,152; 

,153 

io  'Tisilors. 


While  Bermuda  is  a very  small  place  and  remotely 
situated,  yet  in  some  things  purchasers  can  do  better 
here  than  even  in  New  York,  the  metropolis  of  the 
New  World.  This  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  only  five 
per  cent,  duty  is  charged  on  all  imported  goods  ex- 
cept liquors  and  tobacco.  First-class  clothing,  made 
to  order  by  experienced  American  and  English  tailors, 
English  dry  goods,  and  fine  imported  liquors,  can  be 
purchased  here  for  less  than  one-half  what  the  same 
quality  of  goods  sell  for  in  the  United  States. 

In  connection  with  this  work  we  have  given  on  the 
following  pages  the  addresses  of  the  principal  busi- 
ness houses  in  Bermuda,  which  will  prove  of  value  to 
persons  visiting  the  islands.  It  includes  the'  cards  of 
the  leading  hotels  and  steamship  companies,  photog- 
raphers, and  dealers  in  curios  and  bric-a-brac. 


VC 


THBIsE  OF  MOJ^EY, 

With  Relative  Values  in  Dollars  and  Cents. 

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00  ; 

English  money  is  the  currency  of  the  Bermuda 
Islands,  although  American  gold  and  bank  bills  are 
received  at  their  full  face  value  at  the  hotels  and 
principal  stores,  and  frequently  a premium  is  paid  on 
same.  Drafts  and  bills  of  exchange  can  be  procured 
at  the  Bank  of  Bermuda,  (see  advertisement.) 


THE  BANK  OF  BERMUDA. 

liimited. 

Incorporated  Act  of  tlie  Colonial  Parliament,  1889. 


OFFICE,  FRONT  STREET, 
HAMILTON,  - - BERMUDA, 


ppejisl0r2b, 

The  Honorable  W.  H.  Gosling. 

Viee-ppe^fislenh, 

William  Block,  Esq. 

J.  L.  Trimingham. 


^NEW  YORK. 


REFERENCES : 

Among  many  others  are 

The  CHASE  NATIONAL  BANK, 

Messrs.  DREXEL,  MORGAN  & CO., 

Messrs.  E.  J.  MATHEWS  & CO.,  . 

Agents  of  the  Cheque  Bank  (L’d),  of  London.  J 
The  CANADIAN  BANK  OF  COMMERCE,  - - TORONTO,  CANADA. 

MERCHANTS  BANK  OF  HALIFAX,  - - - . HALIFAX,  N.  S. 

The  LONDON  JOINT  STOCK  BANK  (Limited,)  - - - - LONDON. 

( LONDON. 

THOMAS  COOK  & SON,  Tourist  & Passenger  Agents.  NEW  YORK. 

( dUo1U.Ni 


Bermuda  Royal  Mail  Line. 


The  New  A 1 Iron  Steamships 

TRINIDAD,  - - 2,200  TONS, 

OR 

ORINOCO,  - - 2,000  TONS, 

With  Magnificent  Passenger  Accommodations,  Leave 

New  York  for  Bermuda 

Every  THURSDAY  from  JANUARY  till  JUNE,  and  Every 

Alternate  Thursday  thereafter. 


For  further  information,  apply  to 

QUEBEC  STEAMSHIP  CO.,  Quebec  and  New  York. 

THOMAS  COOK  & SONS,  Passenger  Agents, 

261  Broadway,  New  York. 

A.  E.  OUTERBRIDGE  & CO.,  Agents, 
39  Broadway,  New  York. 

ARTHUR  AHERN,  Secretarij,  Quebec. 


NEW  yORK  UNO  WEST  INDIES  EINE. 

The  A 1 Iron  Steamships 

CARIBBEE,  2000  Tons,  BERMUDA.  1300  Tons. 
MURIEL,  1300  Tons, 

Leave  NE  WYORK  for  ST.  CROIX,  ST.  KITTS,  ANTIGUA, 
DOMINICA,  MARTINIQUE,  ST.  LUCIA  and 
BARBADOS  every  ten  days. 


The  latest  addition  to  the  West  India  Fleet  is  the  handsome  Steamer 
“ CARIBBEE,”  of  2000  tons,  equipped  with  electric  lights  and  all  modern 
improvements.  This  steamer  has  unsurpassed  accommodation  for  passen- 
gers, and  has  recently  been  fitted  out  on  the  Clyde  especially  for  this  service. 


ST,  LAWRENCE  LINE, 

The  A 1 Steamship 

Leaves  Montreal  every  alternate  Monday,  during  the  season  of  navigation, 

for 

F=ZOTOTJ,  ZT.  S., 

Calling  at  Quebec,  Father  Point,  Gaspe,  Perce,  Summerside 
and  Charlottetown. 

Through  Tickets  issued  to  Halifax.  N.  S.,  St.  John,  N.  B.,,  Portland, 
Boston,  New  York,  &c. 

Connect  with  Steamers  and  Railroads  for  all  parts  of  the  British  Piov- 
inces  and  the  United  States,  and  at  Halifax  with  Steamers  for  Newfoundland 
ank  New  York, 


For  further  particulars  apply  to 

QUEBEC  STEAMSHIP  CO., 

Quebec  and  IVew  Yorlt. 

THOMAS  COOK  & CO.,  Passenger  Agents, 

261  Broadway,  New  York. 

A.  E.  OUTERBRIHGE  & CO.,  Agents, 

39  Broadway,  New  York.  • 

ARTHUR  AHERN,  Secretary ,, Quebec. 


PICKF0RD  4 BIi7ICK’3, 

West  Indian  Steamship  Lines- 


WiNDWARD  Island  Service. 

The  A I Iron  Steamships  TAYMOUTH  CASTLE 
and  DUART  CASTLE,  2000  tons  each,  with 
superior  passenger  accommodation,  leave  • 
Halifax,  N S.,  eveiy  4 weeks. 

Via  BERMUDA, 

for  DEMERARA  and  return,  calling  both  ways  at  BER- 
MUDA, ST.  THOMAS,  ST.  KITTS,  ANTIGUA, 
MONTSERRAT,  GUADALOUPE,  DOMINICA, 
MARTINIQUE,  ST.  LUCIA,  BARBADOS 
and  TRINIDAD. 

31  days  from  Bermuda  to  Demerara  and  return. 


Jamaica  Service. 

The  well-known  A i Iron  Steamship  “ALPHA,”  with  ex- 
tra passenger  accommodations,  leaves  Halifax,  N.  S., 
on  the  15  th  of  each  month  for 

TURKS  ISLAND  and  KINGSTON,  JAMAICA, 

Calling  at  BERMUDA  going  and  returning. 

14  days  Bermuda  to  Jamaica  and  return. 

Either  of  the  above  routes  make  a very  pleasant  excur- 
sion for  tourists  wintering  at  Bermuda. 

For  further  particulars  apply  to 

PICKFORD  & BLACK,  Halifax,  N.  S. 

W.  T.  JAMES,  Bermuda. 

THOS.  COOK  & CO.,  261  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


THE 


New  York 
Cuba 

MAIL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 


The  first-class,  powerful  iron  and  ste.el  steamers  of  this 
Company,  built  especially  for  the  trade,  with  all  the  latest 
improvements,  make  regular  trips  between 

NEW  YORK,  HAVANA,  PROGRESO,  TAMPICO, 
TUXPAM,  VERA  CRUZ,  FRONTERA, 
CAMPECHE,  AND  LAGUNA, 

Leaving  New  York  every  SflTURDfly  AT  1 P.M. 


Also  between  NEW  YORK,  HAVANA,  and  alter- 
nately to  MATANZAS,  CARDENAS  AND  SAGUA, 

EVERY  WEDNESDfly  AT  3 P.  M. 

For  NASSAU,  N.  P.,  SANTIAGO  DE  CUBA, 
GUANTANAMO,  AND  CIENFUEGOS, 

EVERY  0THE>R  THURSDAY. 


COMPANY’S  FLEET. 

Yumuri,  Orizaba,  Yucatan, 

City  of  Washington,  City  of  Alexandria,  Saratoga, 
Niagara,  Cienfuegos,  Santiago, 

Nassau,  M.  Moran,  Manteo. 


James  E.  Ward  & Co.,  Agents, 

113  Wall  Street,  NEW  YORK. 


'I'HE  J-(aMILTON,  Bef^mUpa,  IsL/^Kps, 


Jl7e  J^a^Tliltol7. 

— — 

This  house  is  now  the  largest  and  most  elegant  building  in  the  city  of 
Hamilton,  and  its  grounds  are  well  laid  out  and  tilled  with  beautiful  flowers 
the  entire  winter.  It  is  provided  with  all  modern  conveniences,  including 
electric  bells  and  gas  in  all  the  rooms,  hot  and  cold  water  baths,  etc.  The 
bouse  is  situated  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  ensuring  dryness  and 
perfect  drainage.  From  its  elevated  position  it  commands  extensive 
views  of  the  city,  the  surrounding  country,  the  harbor,  shipping  and  the 
adjacent  islands.  The  beautiful  Victoria  Park  is  directly  in  the  rear  of 
the  house,  and  is  always  open  to  the  public.  The  Regimental  Band  gives 
weekly  afternoon  concerts  there,  to  which  all  are  invited,  and  the  excel- 
lent music  is  much  enjoyed. 

The  climate  of  Bermuda  is  a perfect  delight  to  those  coming  from  the 
wintry,  icy  North.  The  temperature  is  probably  the  most  equable  to  be 
found  on  the  globe.  Frost  never  comes  to  this  delightful  land.  The 
mercury  for  the  winter  is  from  65  to  75  degrees.  The  island  is  entirely  free 
from  malaria,  and  being  of  coral  formation  act  as  a complete  safeguard 
against  the  accumulation  of  anything  of  an  impure  or  oflTensive  nature  on 
the  surface.  The  drives  round  the  island  are  picturesque  and  delightful, 
the  roads  excellent,  in  many  places  cut  through  the  coral  rock,  from  the 
interstices  of  which  numerous  delicate  flowers  grow  and  blossom 
through  the  entire  year.  Oleanders,  roses  and  many  other  choice  flowering 
plants  grow  in  luxuriant  profusion  along  the  highways  and  byways; 
while  the  orange,  lemon , palm  and*  other  beautiful  trees  adoni  the  land- 
scape. The  inhabitants  are  always  pleased  to  welcome  visitors  to  their 
island,  and  do  all  they  can  to  make  their  stay  pleasant  and  agreeable; 
while  lawn  parties,  sailing  parties,  picnic,  military  displays,  band  con- 
certs, balls,  receptions,  theatricals  and  excellent  fishing  ofl"er  pleasant 
diversions  and  enjoyment  to  all. 

WALTER  AIKEN,  Proprietor. 


THE  NEW 


PRINCESS  HOTEE, 

HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


TT7HIS  new  and  commodious  hotel,  built  in  1884,  entirely 
A of  wood,  (making  it  the  MOST  COMFORTABLE 
HOUSE  on  the  Island,)  will  be  open  for  the  reception  of 
guests,  from 

^BECEMBEK  TO  MkY^ 

It  is  modern  in  all  its  appointments.  Hot  and  cold  water; 
fresh  and  salt  water  baths.  Electric  bells  and  gas  throughout. 
Over  400  feet  of  broad  piazza  overlooking  harbor  and  sur- 
rounding country.  Finest  location  in  Bermuda.  Accommoda- 
tions for  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 


For  Terms,  Circulars,  and  any  further  information,  address 

N.  S.  HOWE, 

PRINCESS  HOTEL,  HAMILTON,  Bermada. 


MMGW  ^ pagE, 


COR.  OP  QUEEN  & CHURCH  STS., 

^HAMILTON,  BERMUDA.^ 

A.  PASCHAL,  . . Proprietor. 


Every  Attention  given  to  Guests, 


HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


This  House  is  pleasantly  and  conveniently  located  on  East 
side  of  Qj^ieen  Street.  Contains  twenty-six  chambers,  and  ranks 
next  to  the  Hamilton  and  Princess  Hotels.  The  rooms  are 
bright  and  cheerful,  and  newly  furnished.  Every  attention 
paid  to  guests.  Refer  to  O.  A.  Taft,  of  Point  Shirley,  Boston, 
who  stopped  here  for  a season. 


BILLIARDS  AND  POOL. 


HOT  AND  COLD  WATER  BATHS. 


W.  BRADLEY,  Proprietor. 


V ITUATED  opposite  the  Mail  Steamers’  Landing,  and 
^ commanding  a fine  view  of  HAMILTON  HARBOR, 
GIBBS’  HILL  LIGHTHOUSE,  &c.  Open  all  the  year. 

Permanent  or  transient  guests  comfortably  accom- 
modated. 

Luncheon  and  Dinners  furnished  at  shortest  notice. 
Bar  and  Billiards. 

CHARGES  MODERATE. 


YTCTOTTA  Wmi, 

\ 

HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


Fronting  TICTOMA  PARK,  and  directly  across 
the  street  from  the  HAMILTON  HOUSE. 


Private  Board,  especially  suitable  for  families. 
Prices  very  reasonable,  and  every  attention  paid 
to  guests. 

MRS.  J.  FRED’K  SMITH, 

Propr  ietress . 


Off  Cedar  Avenue, 


HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


Miss  Edgar,  - - Propristress. 


The  Brunswick  House  is  situated  in  a charming, 
locality ; is  roomy  and  airy ; has  a large  verandah 
space,  bath-room  accommodation,  and  alfords  every 
comfort  to  guests. 


PRICE  OF  BOARD,  $12.00  PER  WEEK. 


References  : 

ROBERT  DUNLAP,  i8o  Fifth  Ave.,  N.  Y. 

LUIS  JAMES  PHELPS,  32  Nassau  St.,  N.  Y. 
FREDERICK  A.  MILLER,  Lieut.  Commander,  U.  S.  N, 
JAMES  H.  STARK,  275  Washington  Street,  Boston. 


Cable  Address — 


“Lockward,”  Bermuda. 


LOOKWARD  & INGHAM, 

General  Dry  Goods  Merchants, 

60  & 60^  FRONT  ST.,  HAMILTON. 


Departments.  Departments. 
DEESS-MAKING,  TAILORING, 
MILLINERY,  Gents ’FURNISHINGS 

HABERDASHERY,  House  Furnishings, 
&c.,  c&c.,  &c.  BOOTS &SHOES. 

The  Most  Complete  Establishment  in  Bermuda. 

Front  Street,  Haeiiltoe,  Bermeda. 


Cable  Address 


“Lockward/’  Bermuda. 


JjoGi^wAi^D  ^ Ingham, 

General  Outfitting  Establisltinent. 

IMPORTERS  OF 

ENGLISH 


FOREIGN 


DRY..  GOODS. 


A large  and  attractive  stock  of  Goods,  of  superior 
quality,  personally  selected  each  season  by  a member  of 
the  firm. 

Special  attention  is  invited  to  our 

DRESS-MAKING  and  TAILORING  Departments, 

each  under  the  management  of  very  experienced  cutters. 

Ladies’  Fine  Tailoring  a Specialty. 

Front  Street,  Hamilton,  - - Bermuda. 


Triminghain  Bros. 

19  & 20  FrcDt  St.,  Hamilton, 

IxMPORTERS  OF 

English  & Foreign  4- 
^ Dry  Goods,  &c.,  &c. 

General  Dry  Goods  Dept., 

House  Furnishing 

Gent’s  Furnishing  Department, 

Consisting  in  part  of  a full  assort- 
ment of  Cartwright  & Warner’s 
Underwear,  Welch,  Margetson  & 
Co.’s  Ties,  Scarves,  Braces,  Belts, 
Linen  and  Silk  Handkerchiefs, 
Collars,  Cuffs,  &c.,  Dent’s  Gloves 
in  Kid  and  Dogskin,  Tennis  and 
Boating  Outfits  in  variety,  Tennis 
and  Boating  Boots  and  Shoes  in 
Russia,  Russet  Leather  and  White 
Buckskin,  Umbrellas,  Rugs,  * 
Travelling  Shawls,  &c. 

Ladies’  Department, 

Millinery  in  all  its  Branches. 

Laces  and  Handkerchiefs  in  Silk 
and  Linen. 

Dent’s  Gloves  in  Kid  & Dogskin. 
Umbrellas  and  Parasols. 

Waterproofs  and  Mantles. 

Dress  Goods  in  Silk,  Wool  and 
Cotton. 

Dress  Trimmings  in  great  variety. 
Dressmaking  under  competent 
management. 


Gosling  Brothers, 

Established  1822. 

Hamilton  & St.  Georges, 

BERMUDA. 


WINE  MERCHANTS 

and  

PROVISION  DEALERS, 


A Large  Stock  of  Old  Wines,  Cordials, 

Brandies  and  Malt  Liquors. 


Original  Manufacturers  of 

BERMUDA  MILK  PUNCH. 


Importers  of  the  following  choice  brands  of  Champagne  : — 

POMMERY  &.  GRENO,  DRY  MONOPOLE, 

G.  H.  MUMM,  VEUVE  CLICQUOT,  PERRIER. 
JOUET  & CO.  MOET  & CHANDON. 

GENUINE  HAVANA  CIGARS. 

Machados  Jamaica  Cigars.  Manila  Cheroots, 


Mrs.  a.  Hodson, 


LADIES’  & 

CHILDREN’S 

OUTFITTER. 


Millinery  Dressmaking. 


Specialty  made  of  Fine  English  Hosiery, 
Superior  French  Kid  Gloves,  and 

RAIN-PROOF  CLOAKS, 

In  “Cravenette”  and  other  grades. 


Cot^.  BUI^rlABV  8t  f^ElD  STf^EETS, 


HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


Bermuda  Tailoring  House, 

HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


take  pleasure  in  calling  the  attention  of  our  friends 
and  the  general  public  to  our  elegant  and  carefully  selected 
stock  of  the  latest  ENGLISH,  SCOTCH  AND  FRENCH 
NOVELTIES  IN  WOOLEN  GOODS,  which  we  make  up 
from  thirty  to  fifty  per  cent,  less  than  the  same  can  be  procured 
in  the  best  houses  in  New  York  City. 

Having  a good  staff  of  American  workmen,  we  guarantee 
perfect  style,  fit  and  workmanship,  and  respectfully  request  an 
inspection  of  our  stock.  No  trouble  to  show  goods.  We  make 
a specialty  of  Ladies’  Fine  Tailoring, 

Yours  respectfully, 

A.  Phillips  & Co., 

Merchant  Tailors, 

9 & 11  Queen  Street, 

Reference  by  permission  to  Successors  to  A.  R.  THOMPSONi 

J.  RUSSELL  MEAD,  Esq.,  Hamilton  Hotel. 

Mr.  HOWE,  Proprietor  Princess  Hotel. 

Rt.  Rev.  Bishop  LITTLEJOHN,  ( Bishop  of  Long  Island.) 

O.  A.  TAFT,  Point  Shirley,  Boston. 

H.  W.  BECKWITH,  American  Consul,  Bermuda. 

MORGAN  C.  HAMILTON. 

R.  DUNLAP,  Hatter,  N.  Y. 

HOWARD  CRAMP,  Ship  Builder,  Philadelphia. 

J.  H.  STARK,  Boston. 


Ei}'$li8l7  Sailorii}^  Establisl^/nept 


J.  A.  Chambers,  English  Tailor,  Late  of 
London  and  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York,  begs 
respectfully  to  call  the  attention  of  the  visitors 
to  these  Islands  to  the  vast  difference  in  the 
prices  of  Clothing  here  and  in  New  York. 

J.  A.  Chambers  having  had  a large  ex- 
perience in  the  English  and  Scotch  markets 
has  made  a point  of  keeping  nothing  but  the 
best  materials. 

A large  selection  is  now  open  for 
inspection  at  his  store  in  Queen  Street,  and 
the  public  generally  will  find  it  to  their 
advantage  to  inspect  these  goods  before 
ordering  eleswhere. 

Yours  respectfully, 

J,  A,  CHAMBERS. 

QUEEN  STREET, 

UNDER  WINDSOR  HOTEL, 

HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


Mrs.  H.  G.  Recht, 

—FANCY  JEWELRY^ 

IN  GOLD,  SILVER,  GARNET  AND  AMBER. 


Fine  Carved  Cedar  Wood. 


Stark’s  Bermuda  Guide, 

History  and  Guide  to  the  Bahamas, 

Barbados  and  Caribbee 
Islands,  for  sale  here. 


Souvenirs  a Specialty. 


Reid  Street,  between  Queen  and 

Burnaby  Streets,  Hamilton,  Bermuda. 

No.  7,  Congress  Hall,  Saratoga,  N.  Y. 


B.  ni.  GHILTD,' 


HEALER  IN 


Pmm0nbs.  iint  60lJr  ^ 

GOLD  6-  SILVER  JEWELLERY, 

<st)(1  R(zt:qc^ 

PIANOS  ORGANS. 

HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


J.  STIMPSON, 

Collector  and  Dealer  in  all  kinds  of 

MARINE  SPECIMENS, 

AND  IMPORTER  OF 

Sponges,  Woods,  Tortoise  Shells,  Shells,  Conch  Pearls, 

Etc.,  Etc. 

Windsor  Block,  Queen  St,  HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 

EXCHANGES  MADE  OF  SPECIMENS. 

GO  TO 

RICHARDSON  BROS. 

FOR 

^PHOTOftRAPHvS» 

OF  ALL  DESCRIPTIONS;  ALSO 

Portraits  in  Oil,  Crayon,  Ink  or  Water  Color. 

Enlarging  Old  Photographs  a Snccessful  Specialty. 

SATISFACTION  GUARANTEED. 
STUDIO,  Queen  Street, 


Opposite  Windsor  Hotel, 


Telephone  Call,  - 146. 


JOHN  BARRITT, 


DEALER  IN 

Glass,  Crockery,  China,  Majolica,  and  Fancy  Wares,  Soaps^ 
Perfumery  and  Fancy  Goods,  English  and  American 
Toys  and  Musical  Instruments ; Lanterns, 

Lamps  and  Fittings ; Enamelled  Tin, 

Galvanized  and  Hollow-ware 
Goods,  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

Glass  and  Crockery  on  Hire. 

COR.  EAST  BROADWAY  AND  KING  ST., 

Hamilton,  - - Bermuda. 


Cable  Address,  - “ Bottles.' 


BST-^BIjISDEIE3D  I3iT  ±803. 

THOMPSON  & I[OBEp, 

CONTRACTORS  TO  HER  MAJESTY’S  GOVERNMENT. 
(Successors  to  A.  R.  THOMPSON.) 

WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL  DEALERS  IN 

Grocemes, 

Pt?o  visions, 

-4*  plout^. 


ENGLISH,  FRENCH,  AND  AMERICAN  CANNED  GOODS, 
VEGETABLES,  POULTRY,  AND  GAME. 


Furniture  of  Every  Description. 

^ QUKBIV 

HAMILTON . BERMUDA. 


Agent  for  R.  E.  Downing  & Co.,  Foreign  Express. 
The  only  authorized  express  of  the  Quebec  S.  S.  Co. 


63  & 65  Beaver  Street,  N.  Y. 


STARK’S 

HISTORY  AND  GUIDE 


TO 

BARBADOS 

AND  THE 

CARIBBEE  ISLANDS, 

CONTAINING 

R DESCRIPTION  OF  EVERYTHING  ON  OR  ABOUT  THESE 
ISLANDS  OF  WHICH  THE  VISITOR  OR  RESIDENT 
MAY  DESIRE  INFORMATION, 

INCLUDING  THEIR 

HISTORY,  INHABITANTS,  CLIMATE,  AGRI- 
CULTURE, GEOLOGY,  GOVERNMENT 
AND  RESOURCES. 


IHuBtratjefl 

WITH  MAPS,  ENGRAVINGS  AND  PHOTO-PRINTS. 


BY 

JAMES  H.  STARK. 


BOSTON: 

Photo-Electrotype  Co.,  Publishers. 

Barbados:  Bowen  & Sons. 


-^TOWER-^ 

Book  and  Periodical  Library 

TERMS  MODERATE.  DEPOSIT  REQUIRED. 


Orders  for  Copper  Plate  and  usual  Job  Printing. 


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Artists’  Materials,  Art  Pottery,  China  Ware,  Ber- 
lin Wools,  Novelties  and  Household 
Decorations. 


STARK’S 

HISTORY  AND  GUIDE 


TO  THE 

BAHAMA  ISLANDS, 

CONTAINING 

A DESCRIPTION  OF  EVERYTHING  ON  OR  ABOUT  THE 
BAHAMA  ISLANDS  OF  WHICH  THE  VISITOR  OR 
RESIDENT  MAY  DESIRE  INFORMATION. 

INCLUDING  THEIR 

HISTORY,  INHABITANTS,  CLIMATE,  AGRICULTURE, 
GEOLOGY,  GOVERNMENT  AND  RESOURCES. 


WITH  MAPS,  ENGRAVINGS  AND  PHOTO-PRINTS. 


BY 

JAMES  H.  STARK. 


BOSTON: 

Photo-Electrotype  Company, 
Publishers. 


Stark's  History  and  Guide 

TO  THE 

BAHAMA  ISLANDS. 

Fully  illustrated  with  Maps,  Photo-Prints,  and  wood- 
cuts,  12  mo.  $2.00  post  paid. 

“ I have  read  your  Book  on  the  Bahamas  with  great  care  and  interest,  and  can 
confidently  speak  of  it  as  the  most  trustworthy  account  of  the  Colony  that  has  yet 
been  published.” 

Sir  Ambrose  Shea, 

Governor  of  the  Bahamas. 


“ Your  book  has  exceeded  my  expectations,  you  have  filled  up  a gap  in  the  history 
of  the  English  Empire,  especially  in  the  history  of  our  colonies  that  deserves  the 
encomiums  of  every  Englishman,  aye  and  of  every  American  who  reads  your  book. 
The  colonists  of  the  Bahamas  owe  you  a debt  that  they  can  never  fully  repay.” 

G.  C.  Camplejohn, 

fudge  of  the  Court  of  Common  Pleas.  Bahamas. 

For  Sale  By 

The  Photo  Electrotype  Co.,  275  Washington  street,  Boston. 
Damrell  & Upham,  Old  Corner  Bookstore,  Boston, 

Bretano,  5 Union  Square,  New  York. 


I^T.  E.  XjUSHEK;, 

=PHOTOGRflPHER- 


PORTRAITS  and  OOT-DOOR  GROUPS  a Specialty. 


We  have  a large  assortment  of  fine  Bermuda  YiewS, 
size  9x7,  mounted  and  unmounted.  Every  visitor  should 
purchase  a collection  of  them  as  a memento  of  their  visit 
to  these  islands. 

23  FRONT  STREET, 


HAMILTON,  BERMUDA. 


ill  TO  jmiCi  BIRECT 


BY 


Steamers  of  the  Boston  Fruit  Co. 


Carrying  the  U.  S.  Mail. 

C AILING  from  LONG  WHARF,  Boston,  direct  for 
PORT  ANTONIO,  Jamaica,  weekly,  from  November 
to  March,  and  semi-weekly  from  March  to  November. 

These  Steamers  are  new  and  fitted  with  superior  accommoda- 
tions for  passengers.  Cabins  on  main  deck  and  located  forward 
of  engines,  thus  securing  light  and  air  free  from  any  dis- 
agreeable odors. 

Distance  Boston  to  Port  Antonio,  1,600  miles, 

which  is  covered  in  five  days. 

The  disagreeable  sensations  produced  on  passengers  by 
passing  near  Hatteras  incident  to  some  other  routes  is  avoided 
by  taking  the  Steamers  of  this  Line. 

At  PORT  ANTONIO,  excellent  communications  by  land  or 
water  can  be  had  with  all  parts  of  the  island. 

Full  particulars  furnished  by  application  to 

A.  W.  PRESTON,  Man’gr  Boston  Division,  Boston. 

OR 

L.  D.  BAKER,  Pres,  and  Man’gr,  Tropical  Division, 
PORT  ANTONIO,  JAMAICA. 


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